I believe when i checked my tps and adj i used the middle wire and the bottom wire. You do the adj with switch on but engine not running, hope this helps.

 

As I expected.

OK, you need to ID the TPS pins. First put the blk test lead onto the battery gnd terminal and touch each TPS pin. One pin will read 0Vdc (this is signal gnd), one will read +5Vdc (this is power) and one will read between 0-5Vdc (this is the signal pin).

The pin that shows 0Vdc is where you now place the DMM blk lead; the pin where the voltage is between 0-5Vdc is where you will place the DMM red lead.

Now you will see ~.5Vdc to ~5Vdc as you move the throttle from idle to WOT.

 

This may provide some additional info:

http://wes.stealing-fire.com/tps_diagnostics.htm

 

Thanks,

Using the black lead to the battery not the ground at the TPS made all the difference.
TPS sensor is set properly and gives the correct voltage at WOT.

We will see what the readings are when the car is not running.
It is currently in running mode but all it takes is a drive around for awhile and when I return it will not activate the injectors.
I can hear the fuel pump and the injectors click.
The car will turn over and run with starting fluid. Sometimes if I lightly tap the gas pedal with the injectors fire but not always.

This is why I was testing the TPS.

 

Hold on, I did not see page 2

 

Quit fooling around with the TPS. I think they cost all of about 12 bucks at Advance AUto Parts.
Replace the TPS then start finding out why the fuel pump isn't pumping.
The TPS has all your attention and the real problem will elude you until you start to believe it's something other than the TPS.

Start by substituting a KNOWN GOOD fuel pump relay.
Go back and check your wiring at the fuel tank filler and make sure it's clean and the connections are tight.
The 'oil pressure' 'cutoff' is not the problem here either.
Connect your meter to those connections and have someone turn on the key. See if there is +12 volts getting to the pump AND the pump has a return to the negative side of the electrical buss.

Sounds like an intermittent fuel pump relay to me.
The relay contacts can make connection soemtimes and not make connection at other times. The relay coil can be good, the relay can click like it's working but the contacts can't/won't transfer current to actuate the pump. This can make diagnosis frustrating and difficult.
Believing this type failure can and does occur will make it a lot easier.

Disclaimer:
I may or may not be right with this diagnosis. If I'm right I'm glad for ya. If I'm wrong I'll issue you a 'store credit' for all the money you spent on this advice.

 

BTW.... IIRC...
I believe I have cranked my '84 Vette up before with the TPS DISCONNECTED.
Got the CHECK ENGINE light, jumped out, looked under the hood and told myself what an IDIOT I was for not connecting it up.

The engine will run WITHOUT a TPS so...........
If yours is badder'n heck, the engine will STILL crank up and run.
Everytime.
Sooooo LOOK FOR SOMETHING ELSE WRONG.

The TPS is NOT the PRIMARY input for the ECM in relation to throttle angle or throttle position. It is a SECONDARY input device.
Sooooo LOOK FOR SOMETHING ELSE WRONG.


TIP: The injectors can be firing but they won't LOOK liek they are firing if there is no fuel to spray outta them.
You have confirmed that the COMPLETE system is functional with the exception of fuel delivery when you said you could run it by spraying starting fluid into it and cranking it up.


The injector driver circuitry in the ECM 'could' be bad and give you this exact symptom but.... that is a long, long shot ... not very likely at all.

If the plugs are firing the ECM is getting tach signal from the distrib.
If it gets tach signal and fires the plugs the injector drivers get input to pulse the injectors.
The injectors open/close irregardless of whether there's fuel available.
If there is no fuel pressure you will NOT see the injectors squirting and may easily assume they aren't being activated by the driver circuitry inside the ECM.

Your technique of spraying starting fluid into the engine and running it has proven that 99% of everything you have is working properly.
It's apparent your focus is in a direction that won't take you closer to finding the fault.
Redirect and zero in on what could cause the issue. Eliminate the things that you know are good and the things that don't matter.

Listen at the filler for the pump to run when the key is placed in the 'on' position. (do not start just listen for the pump).

Always CHECK and RECHECK ANYTHING that you have done before to any system that is giving you problems.

My bet still goes to defective fuel delivery of some nature external to the ECM or the ENGINE.

Ok, it's late and past my bedtime. Got to get myzeeess now.