Insert and turn the key and only the starter solenoid clicks. Tried it a few more times, same result: Click, Click, Click.

Finally, insert key, put shift selector into neutral; same thing: Click! All other electricals work find. Battery is new and test fine also.

Last attempt: Turn key to "ON", put shift selector into neutral, allow car to roll back a couple of feet. Brake, shifter into Park.

Turn the key and engine starts instantly. Shut down and try restart; starts instantly.

Anyone had a similar occurrence?

Thanks,

Jake

 

Yep, same symptoms = bad solenoid. Replaced starter/solenoid and now it starts reliably.
There are threads on replacement parts for the solenoid. Nitto, I think, is the mfg.

 

That is the result of a bad electrical connection. I have always found it to be the contacts in the starter solenoid. It is pretty easy to clean them up with the old, big, starter. I have no experience with the small starters, but I can't imagine it is much different. Others have had success, pulling and cleaning the battery cable connections.

RACE ON!!!

 

Thanks much for that info, guys.

I'll hit the auto parts store tomorrow for a new solenoid and spend the afternoon on my back.

Jake

 

Sounds like the old starter solenoid sticking to me,but is more common on them older Vettes with huge starters...however,that being said,does your car have the Precats on the Y?
If so,if its near the starter,they shorten the life out of the solenoid..happen to my former Vette quite a few times.Hate those things,heat is the enemy.Never had a solenoid stick after I had the front Y replaced with a no precat front Y.That being said,your model car has the better starter and isnt usually affected by it as bad.Somestimes its just age eh?

 

sometimes the starter armature will get a dead spot and the starter stops precisely on that bad commutator segment. chick click click and the starter may make a minor movement to the good area, and the 4th or 5th or 6th try, it catches.
the click sometimes means the solenoid is working, but the starter is not rotating to throw the bendix out to the flywheel.
The little plunger yoke is what throws the bendix out with motor movement.

 

Yep, Bill, the exhaust is stock. So since I have to drop the starter to change the solenoid, might as well change the starter while I'm at it.

Thanks,

Jake

 

To be on the safe side, I've decided to change both the solenoid and the starter.

I'll also install a solenoid heat shield while I'm at at. AutoZone sells them for less than $10.00 No need to do all the work of changing just the solenoid only to have the same problem recur.

Thanks for the advice.

Jake

 

Another possibility is a poor battery connection. Since its easy to do, I recommend that you remove the battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs, bolts, and battery terminals and replace (neg last). Starters require 100+ amps to crank and they require a very low resistance connection to the battery.

 

Thanks for that but I already touched that base. When I installed the new 720 CCA battery a couple of weeks ago I installed new battery bolts. The old ones had some surface rust in the area of the 5/16 hex head so I figured, "Why not."

I'm a good one for insuring things are tight too.

I've resigned myself to replacing the starter and solenoid; hopefully today. I'll be sure to post how the swap works out.

Thanks again,

Jake

 

I think its the starter Bendix.When you hear the click, the solenoid pushed the Bendix gear into the flywheel teeth & it stuck there.Rocking the car & stickiing into park nudged the flywheel releasing the gear.
My 2 cents.I know your changing both, I would also.

 

Here's the latest.

I checked with a few auto parts stores to get an idea of the cost of a new starter and solenoid. Neither AutoZone, O'Reilly's or Pep Boys have NEW starters for the 96, only rebuilt units.

AutoZone offered to test my starter - which I figured would save me some $$ if it turned out to be "good". In preparation to drop the starter I drove the car up on some 2"x4" boards I had made into a ramp in order to get my jack under the car.

Once the passenger side was on the ramp, I tried turning off the engine and it wouldn't stop running.

I completely removed the key and the engine kept running. I was finally able to get the engine to shut off, but only after a few attempts. I decided not to drop the starter until I could get some feedback on this newest development.

I'm starting to suspect that the intermittent no start condition and the no "stop" condition may somehow be related and may center on the ignition switch in the steering column.

Has anyone had a similar problem?

Any thoughts will be apprecitated.

Thanks,

Jake

 

Please read my post immediately preceeding this one. Engine wouldn't shut off.

I need some feed-back on this.

Thanks,

Jake

 

There were a couple of posts over the last month or so that talked about the key tumbler being attached to the electrical ignition switch via a rod that runs down the steering column. I have no actual experience with this. The description was that dropping the column was easy and provided ready access to the rod and electrical switch.
If there's a rod connecting the tumbler with an electrical switch farther down the column, having one side of the car raised might provide enough twist to bind something, especially if one end of the connector rod is loose or binding.
I looked for that post but couldn't find it. Try looking for 'ignition switch' in a search or look it up in a Helms. You might try adjusting the tilt of the wheel too.
Good luck and hope this helps.

 

I recall reading those posts, too. Someone was trying to find out where and how that rod attaches.

I appreciate the tip. I was suspicious that the "No Stop" problem was somehow connected to the "Intermittent No-Start" problem, but now it seems they may be unrelated. Especially since the one and only time the "No Stop" problem occurred was when the passenger side of the car was on a ramp.

I'll have a look-see in the FSM.

Jake

 

1996 LT1 Auto

PROBLEM SOLVED!

I ordered a reman starter from OReilly's; came in yesterday and I installed it today. Installation was a snap, especially compared to hoisting that two ton monster my 86 hauls around.

Two starter to block bolts - one long and one shorty - and no front brace to wrestle with; two nuts and only two wires.

This time when I jacked the car I had both front tires off the ground and the front was level, side to side. With the car jacked that way, I had no more "No Shut Down" problem either. So apparently if one side of the front is jacked up and the other on the ground, the engine seems not want to shut down.

Whatever causes that to happen, I know not to jack it up that way it again.

I tried firing the engine half a dozen times and on each try the engine fired instantly and shut down cleanly. Drove around town with the same result - What a relief!

$129.95 with a $50 core charge (which was refunded today), lifetime warranty; all new internal parts in a ACDelco/Remy case.

While the car was up, I took the time to check the front wheel bearings and found that the passenger side front is dead in the water. So it's new wheel hub assembly buying time!

So far, the best price I've found is a new ACDelco unit for $220 with a $10 shipping charge.

No rest for the weary.

My THANKS to all those who helped me diagnose my problem.

Jake

 

Hey Jake,
Glad to hear its fixed,but something does raise a flag...why dont you jack that side up and see if the engine will quit or not this time around.Something doesnt seem right if the car wont shut off while jacked on one side,and I do know these cars flex and have flexibility we wish we still had!

That being said,Ive changed many many starters over the years,even the 2 ton 86 style too,what a heavy log to install while on your back!Never had a problem with one side being jacked up instead of 2...

I wonder if theres a loose ground someplace,or around the bellhousing bolts,which may affect it when jacked on one side?Or maybe there was something off with the bad starter and the new one fixed it?

Im glad to hear its fixed and move on to other things,but that situation you raised has me wondering if theres anything wrong or not if it would still do the same thing being raised on one side.

 

Autozone sells Timken front wheel bearings(1996 Corvette) part number 513085
for 185.00 plus shipping...its not available in the store yet but you CAN order it on their website.Just wanted you to know that in case you didnt see it.
I had some problems finding some parts for a GM car I had and found some things they dont stock in the stores yet can be ordered online.So now I doublecheck.

 

I read an article in HOTROD MAGAZINE about a wierd current sneakpath through the alternator. Seems turning off the key does nothing because the alternator is still spinning, providing more than enough power to run your car without the key.Check to see if your alternator wiring isn't having it's wires compromized while the other side is jacked up.
and I think I have a front wheel bearing for a 84-87 in my storage.
since it's a spare, it would bring $100 plus shipping

 

Thanks, Bill. I found one of the 513085 s on the shelf at an O'Reilly's in Irving, TX. I went to my local O'Reilly's here in DeSoto this afternoon and Leonard did a search and came up with one for me.

Get this though: O"Reilly's wants $298.99 for it!!!

I checked the AutoZone site earlier this evening and found the same one - the same one you're referring to - for $185.00 plus sales tax. I found the same one, same part number at several other places on
EBay. I've even found the 513085 for as low as $150.xx, plus shipping.

Since I've read so many posts about inferior hubs and the bearings in them, I'm toying with the idea of spending the extra 30 bucks and get an ACDelco.

I did a Search on the Forum and there's at least ONE excellent series of posts about hub/bearing assemblies. I forgot the name of the original poster, but he certainly deserves our thanks for all the research he did and the info he posted.

Jake