Total advance timing
The other way would be to scan it and observe the spark advance relative to tdc and subtract the knock retard, or observe the spark relative to reference pulse and add the base offset and then subtract any knock retard.
This is analagous to base timing plus mechanical advance, plus vacuum advance in a mechanical distibutor.
Usually the maximum value at WOT for high rpm is reported as the total advance.
This one value is an oversimplification, of course, but it gives you an idea of where the advance is relative to others without delving into the details of the tables and offsets, etc.
113 headed cars seem to like around 42 degrees total advance.
I guess one way of really seeing what actual timing is get it on a dyno with a timing light.
To determine what the max timing should be for best performance, from what I've gathered is to analyze the combination on paper. Another is to compare to a similar combo and use it to start and go beat on it on the street.
I found the best way was with a G-tech accelerometer. I did the 100 -150 mph in 4th gear with the G-tech recording the time it took and tried different timing. the G-tech allows you to overlay all the graphs so you can see at which timing and at what rpm the car pulled faster. I did this for weeks, and still do it and my car performed better than I expected at the track.
So can I have my total advance checked on a dyno?
I've seen LT1's run good with low 30 degree timing at WOT, L98's need less, in some cases a lot less.
Mark
I've seen LT1's run good with low 30 degree timing at WOT, L98's need less, in some cases a lot less.
Mark
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
That + the base timing = 'A Lot of Spark Advance' at times.
Not at WOT, of course.
You are going to HAVE to get access to the tables in your ECM.
The 'cheeeepppest' way to do it 'IMHO' is a Datamaster cable and a laptop for scanning.... and TunerCat for adjusting the tables.
You'll have 'bout 300 bux in the deal not counting a basic slow laptop and you can use it from now on.
Uh-oh, I forgot, you'll need an EPROM burner too. Used.. bout 50 bux.
You'll spend that much in time and frustration paying somebody else to do it for ya.
PLUS, you will learn a LOT about how the ECM does what it does.
'Most' of the mystery will be gone after you get a handle on it.
You haven't got to know how to do it... there's PLENTY PEEPS here that will be willing to take you by the hand and guide you thru this.
Compression is a GOOD thing. I'd rather deal with too much than too little. LOL, it cost more to GET it than to get RID of it.
It won't work quite right on an EFI engine......
The ECM takes into account a few more parameters other than RPM and maniflold vacumm so this time honored traditional technique won't work for our Vettes.
It's a good method for non EFI engines however.
SORRY, I didn't realize how old this thread was.
Last edited by VetNutJim; Feb 20, 2007 at 04:44 PM.








