When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Everyone has heard this one 10 million times, but is worth repeating.
Keep them cool and they will live longer. Much, much longer.
Most people are under the impression that heat, especially excessive, heat will cause the clutches to wear faster, thus using up a trans. This is only partially true. A typical trans has dozens of rubber seals. Some are lip type, others are 0-ring or square edge seals. When these rubber seals get hot, they get hard. Hard seals leak and break easily, causing a severe internal leakage. They "bleed out internally". Cool fluid keeps the seals pliable.
There are 3 good ways to keep fluid cool.
1) A trans cooler is the most effective. I put one on everything I drive.Cheap, cheap to buy and simple to install.
2)Deeper trans pan. Vert owners cannot do this because of the x brace.
An extra inch of depth adds 2 qts to a 10 qt system.
3) Regular fluid changes. Although a trans does not suffer from external contamination to the fluid(like an engine does), internal debris tends to reduce the efficiency of the fluid.
Pete,
I'm getting ready to buy an aluminum rad. for my '92 auto. Should I get a rad for the manual tranny and add an external cooler for the tranny? If so what size do you recommend and where should it be mounted? I had an TH350 in my '79 but replaced it with a 5 speed manual. I will probably keep the '92 auto and want to take care of it. I use the car for fun driving, trips etc.; not racing. Thanks for the help!
Bernie
Pete,
I'm getting ready to buy an aluminum rad. for my '92 auto. Should I get a rad for the manual tranny and add an external cooler for the tranny? If so what size do you recommend and where should it be mounted? I had an TH350 in my '79 but replaced it with a 5 speed manual. I will probably keep the '92 auto and want to take care of it. I use the car for fun driving, trips etc.; not racing. Thanks for the help!
Bernie
Bernie,
Buy a rad for an auto. Then add a trans cooler. Hook it up so the rad cools the fluid, then the aux cooler finishes the job. More efficient this way, so I am told. I have not documented any data to back this up though. Running it through the rad first will also help to bring the trans temp up on a cold morning. I always try to mount the cooler in front of the ac condensor for best cooling. In between the rad and condensor would be the next best place.
Already have the cooler, been wanting to do the deep pan, but so many choices out there.
Frank,
For a driver, the Derale pan is the way to go. It is a sheet metal type pan. I am always leary running a cast pan on the street. One good whack on a speed bump could knock a hole in it. Although a cast pan does help add rigidity to the case.
Last edited by Pete K; Nov 23, 2006 at 10:54 AM.
Reason: Can't spell today
Frank,
For a driver, the Derale pan is the way to go. It is a sheet metal type pan. I am always leary running a cast pan on the street. One good whack on a speed up could knock a hole in it. Although a cast pan does help add rigidity to the case.
I do like the Derale pan. I have Stef's right in my back yard(The guy who build oil pans and oil coolers for the NASCAR guys), he also has a pan similar to Derale, I may have to pay him a visit, but it's almost 1 mile away!
Bernie,
Buy a rad for an auto. Then add a trans cooler. Hook it up so the rad cools the fluid, then the aux cooler finishes the job. More efficient this way, so I am told. I have not documented any data to back this up though. Running it through the rad first will also help to bring the trans temp up on a cold morning. I always try to mount the cooler in front of the ac condensor for best cooling. In between the rad and condensor would be the next best place.
I thought about using both but the trans temp with my external B&M alone is always much cooler than the engine coolant temp. What do you think?
Thanks
I wanted the Derale pan too but like Pete said it won't fit with my x-brace.
It sounds at though I will go with the auto aluminum rad, a B & M cooler and a Deraile pan! I'm hoping this combination lowers my engine temp a little and lowers my transmission temp as well. Thanks for all the worthwhile information. I hope to put it to good use!
Bernie
Everyone has heard this one 10 million times, but is worth repeating.
Keep them cool and they will live longer. Much, much longer.
.
back when i was young and foolish (some things have changed since, some not ), we towed boats behind our cars everywhere, but found out the hard way that without an add-on trans cooler, trans trouble was a sure thing...rapidly became s.o.p. to add a cooler in front of the rad as soon as you got it from the dealer...trans problems were rare with the second coolers.
I use an external, not as good as the B&M stacked?, but that 24000GVW and a BeCool radiator which has a 24000GVW size within the radiator and I run 170 degrees most of the tim I check, which is heavy footed stop and go with 3.75 gears and 2800 rpm Vigilante.
Bernie,
Buy a rad for an auto. Then add a trans cooler. Hook it up so the rad cools the fluid, then the aux cooler finishes the job. More efficient this way, so I am told. I have not documented any data to back this up though. Running it through the rad first will also help to bring the trans temp up on a cold morning.
I have first-hand experience that the stand-alone cooler is noticably LESS efficient when used solo; the radiator contributes signifigantly to coolant temperature reduction and then the add-on cooler drops temps another 20+ degrees from radiator operating temp. I suppose one could use a big enough cooler to where this wouldn't be the case, but I propose that the size necessary would be very prohibitive.
I ran a single stand-alone cooler for almost a year and when I wired it in series (downstream from the radiator), I observed roughly 10-20 degree reduction across the board while driving (and 20-30 degree reduction in idle/traffic temperatures). Also, it was quicker to reach operating temps in cooler weather as PeteK noted.
I suppose one could use a big enough cooler to where this wouldn't be the case
My stand alone stacked B&M stays usually in the 160 degree range. The highest I have ever seen it is 189 degrees. My engine coolant temps are never this low. This was in the summer in Louisiana heat with a 2800 stall Torque Converter. I would think that if I ran it through the radiator also it would only raise the temp. I could be wrong as I have never ran it through the radiator also. It is definately way cooler than the factory radiator cooler alone. I have the B&M racing stacked plate design. I think the BTU's are around 20,500. It can also be used for a moblie home. It fits perfectly in front of the AC condensor. I'll try to look up the model number.
Edit: 11"x8"x1.5", part number 70266 is the one I have, it fits perfect
If you want bigger 70274 may also fit, not sure. 11"x11"x1-1/2"
The B&M coolers are nice. Everyone that uses them seems to like them. However, a cheap cooler is better than no cooler. There are some very inexpensive kits available at the local discount stores. They "zip tie in" using the special nylon ties. 2 hr project. There is no excuse for any of us not to have one. Especially any of us that run a higher stall torque converter.