oil milkshake...expectations realized :(
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 8,175
Likes: 237
From: Philadelphia Burbs
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06
Originally Posted by rocco16
I do know CentralCoaster, and this is a true statement.
He may think your idea is without merit, but he'd help you replace your headgaskets in a heartbeat.
He may think your idea is without merit, but he'd help you replace your headgaskets in a heartbeat.
Guest
Posts: n/a
I would rather see you get it fixed than buying it from you too. I still want you to keep in mind that the head gasket might not be the issue or the only issue. There is still a good chance that you have a cracked block. The cheepest sollution to that is a good used long block from a local junk-yard. Just make sure that they are willing to give you a minimum warantee that it is in good running order at the time you get it/install it. Call around to some of them before you crack open your engine to get idea of prices and what is available. I am almost totally certain that if you have to go the used engine route you will find that what it costs is less than the devaluation you would face selling the car with a blown engine. Then if you have to sell it later you can try to break even. When you do crack your engine open be sure to look around at every-thing real closely. Most machine shops will examine your heads for cracks VERY cheep. and you would be better off having them clean the gasket surface up with a minimal cut for about 30.00 each. That will leave you knowing that the head gasket surface is true and they will check for cracks for free then.
Just look over the lifter valley with a fine tooth comb for any signs of cracks...That is where most cracks happen in the block. An extra $35 for an oil pan gasket will allow you to examine the inside of the block for cracks down there as well.
Just once you fire up the engine again after doing what ever you decide to do to it fill it with cheep regular oil (not synthetic) and a new cheep filter. Only let it run a little while on these then change to a good filter and your ussual oil. This will flush most of the contamination out cheeply and safely. Good luck to ya.
Just look over the lifter valley with a fine tooth comb for any signs of cracks...That is where most cracks happen in the block. An extra $35 for an oil pan gasket will allow you to examine the inside of the block for cracks down there as well.
Just once you fire up the engine again after doing what ever you decide to do to it fill it with cheep regular oil (not synthetic) and a new cheep filter. Only let it run a little while on these then change to a good filter and your ussual oil. This will flush most of the contamination out cheeply and safely. Good luck to ya.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte nc
follow up
Hey all- sorry I've been neglecting the forum lately! 
Anyway- to various responses:
I'm mildly tempted to replace the headgaskets if nothing else just to get back to the wrenchin' that I haven't done for a while- however I am still planning to take a corvette intermission and putting time/money into this one presently seems like a losing proposition in the grand scheme of things. Plus- if there are warped parts as some have suggested- then the can of worms is even bigger. As you can see here I'm in need of something more practical (apologies for corvette abuse)... or maybe I'm not? Anyway- even after I fix'ed that, I'd have the body damage to tend to, and miscellaneous other things too. Part of the whole poorness I described earlier is that I bought a house not long ago and it's draining all my time and $ lately. All that and I'm working on founding my own business, so you see- all this is happening at the most inopportune time possible. Bummer.
Slalom:
Though I didn't ask I'm sure he's aware of Boyle's law- in fact, part of what prompted his suggestion is the fact that he noticed his cap wasn't tight after driving his viper for a year or so with it loose (though he doesn't drive it often). I belive his thought was that such an action would trade cooling effectiveness for a smaller volume of fluid mixing. Again- we were talking about temporary solutions, but thanks for mentioning the info.
Neat:
Checked out your page- sounds like we have a lot in common actually. If I do the gasket, I'll give you a call! (maybe Bl@ck V3tt3 too!) Next time you're in charlotte, look me up regardless and I'll buy you a beer just for the offer! Incidently, your 'suzuki bio' link only shows the 1st paragraph of text for me. I was especially interested as I wrecked my Yamaha Vmax not long ago. My current cycle is a yellow ducati monster 750 that appears pretty much identical to the one next to your suzuki pic. Small world eh?
General update:
Other than a trip to the hardware store (for the water heater) and to work, I haven't been driving the car. However, in removing the dipstick I was able to discern some amount of coolant in the freshly changed oil. This may have been residual from the tube though, so I'm still keeping an eye on it. Still runs pretty well, but I'm agressively searching for a jeep or mustang to replace it with. Getting pretty cold for motorcycles!
As always- thanks for the help!
-k
Anyway- to various responses:
I'm mildly tempted to replace the headgaskets if nothing else just to get back to the wrenchin' that I haven't done for a while- however I am still planning to take a corvette intermission and putting time/money into this one presently seems like a losing proposition in the grand scheme of things. Plus- if there are warped parts as some have suggested- then the can of worms is even bigger. As you can see here I'm in need of something more practical (apologies for corvette abuse)... or maybe I'm not?
Anyway- even after I fix'ed that, I'd have the body damage to tend to, and miscellaneous other things too. Part of the whole poorness I described earlier is that I bought a house not long ago and it's draining all my time and $ lately. All that and I'm working on founding my own business, so you see- all this is happening at the most inopportune time possible. Bummer.Slalom:
Though I didn't ask I'm sure he's aware of Boyle's law- in fact, part of what prompted his suggestion is the fact that he noticed his cap wasn't tight after driving his viper for a year or so with it loose (though he doesn't drive it often). I belive his thought was that such an action would trade cooling effectiveness for a smaller volume of fluid mixing. Again- we were talking about temporary solutions, but thanks for mentioning the info.
Neat:
Checked out your page- sounds like we have a lot in common actually. If I do the gasket, I'll give you a call! (maybe Bl@ck V3tt3 too!) Next time you're in charlotte, look me up regardless and I'll buy you a beer just for the offer! Incidently, your 'suzuki bio' link only shows the 1st paragraph of text for me. I was especially interested as I wrecked my Yamaha Vmax not long ago. My current cycle is a yellow ducati monster 750 that appears pretty much identical to the one next to your suzuki pic. Small world eh?
General update:
Other than a trip to the hardware store (for the water heater) and to work, I haven't been driving the car. However, in removing the dipstick I was able to discern some amount of coolant in the freshly changed oil. This may have been residual from the tube though, so I'm still keeping an eye on it. Still runs pretty well, but I'm agressively searching for a jeep or mustang to replace it with. Getting pretty cold for motorcycles!
As always- thanks for the help!
-k
Last edited by kevin-design; Dec 5, 2006 at 12:40 AM.
