Brake System Replacement Advice for 1996 Needed,,badly
1. Are the slotted only rotors better than drilled?
2. Who makes good solid (non drilled) OE style rotors?
3. What kind of pad material is best?
4. Are Delco drilled/ slotted rotors and ceramic pads good stuff?
5. Suggestions for good quality stainless steel brake lines?
1. Are the slotted only rotors better than drilled?
2. Who makes good solid (non drilled) OE style rotors?
3. What kind of pad material is best?
4. Are Delco drilled/ slotted rotors and ceramic pads good stuff?
5. Suggestions for good quality stainless steel brake lines?
2. The cheap kind. Buy cheap rotors and replace them when they crack/wear out, a $50 rotor works just as good as a $150 rotor. You don't need name brand Brembo rotors or anything cryo treated. The pads play a much more important role in how the car stops than what kind of rotor you have.
3. I'm not sure how serious you want to be at auto-x, but I would step up to a 'real' pad, not some part store crap, such as Hawk HPS or Hawk HP+. The HP+ really stop the car well, but they are noisy and dust a lot. Not the best for looks, but they work really well. The HPS has less noise/less dust, but also less stopping power. Carbotech also makes some good pads, but I haven't tried them.
4. Drilled rotors are for show only. Slots too. They don't add any measureable performance. Drilled rotors crack REALLY easily when you use them hard (ie road course use). Slots fill up with brake pad material. Get blanks. Preferrably cheap ones. If you want to look good, get drilled/slotted, if you want to go fast, preferrably while spending less money, get blanks.
5. Not sure.
1. Are the slotted only rotors better than drilled?
2. Who makes good solid (non drilled) OE style rotors?
3. What kind of pad material is best?
4. Are Delco drilled/ slotted rotors and ceramic pads good stuff?
5. Suggestions for good quality stainless steel brake lines?
This is what I'm doing based on research I've done, on price, performance, dust/noise, all for spirited street driving. For auto X you may want to step up on the pads.
1. Yes.
2. Dunno. I'm going to go with Powerslots all around, seem to be very good, and no negitive reviews, not of C4 guys running them.
3. I'm going HAWK HPS on my setup. If you're gonna auto X a decent amount, I'd go HP+
4. I've heard good things about the pads, but I dunno about them for autox, nor have I heard anything about the rotors.
5. Good question! When we did long track with our imports we always used Goodridge, they probably make lines for the C4.
hope it helps a little
.Brakes aren't anything to cheap out on. Trust me on this. I hope a few will chime in.
Someone, anyone, please tell me what slots do for you, other than A) reducing the friction area, decreasing the amount of stopping force the brakes can generate, B) reducing the mass of the rotor, decreasing the amount of engery (heat) the rotor can hold, making it easier to over heat, C) making the rotor more expensive, and D)filling up with pad material.
I run cheap blanks, at the track no less. I know lots of people who do. For auto-x, it doesn't really matter what rotors you have, as you aren't going to get them very hot. Spending good money on PowerSlots, or any rotor that costs more than $60, is throwing it away.
Dont be cheap on brakes, just spend the money on good brake pads and good fluid, not rotors.
edit: here are some pics of my Firebird rotors:



These had 4 track weekends, or 32 twenty min sessions, plus 5 auto-x's. I want to see some expensive rotor that last longer than this (the CHEAPEST rotor I could find). I would have kept running them until this crack happeend.
You guys can pay $100+ per rotor, I've save the money and spend it on tires, entry fees, or go fast parts.
Last edited by Mojave; Dec 1, 2006 at 01:19 AM.
. He mentioned autocross which is very hard on brakes compared to just a street car. Edit:
The powerslot rotors are not cheap. I'm talking Ebay rotors
Last edited by Ttime; Dec 1, 2006 at 01:41 AM.













