C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 10:49 PM
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Default I need your knowledge!

This is about my 95 auto.

So I have no idea what is going on with my car, but Im guessing it is a transmission problem. I was driving home tonight and I get on the freeway, and when I try to accellerate the car just kept revving higher! It wouldnt make a difference how much or little I stepped on the gas, it just revved really high and refused to downshift. Going 45-50 mph the rpm was at a constant 3500+ instead of the normal 1700-2000. This is the only time I had ever had this happen and it had been driving fine all day.

I tried slowing down to 30, didnt change anything. I tried manually downshifting and the rpms just shot higher, didnt change anything. Finally i got to an exit and came to a complete stop, and I believe it started working normally again!

Help please!
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 10:51 PM
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Trans is likely slipping. If the fluid level is full, and the filter is not blocked, it is overhaul time.
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete K
Trans is likely slipping. If the fluid level is full, and the filter is not blocked, it is overhaul time.
Noooo!

Well I AM well overdue for a rear differential service, could that have something to do with it?? That was the one fluid I didnt change when I bought the car and I recently had the whole car checked over and it was strongly recommended I get the service. I have tried to look into rear diff services on the forum but couldnt find anything so I wasnt sure if I actually needed it or not
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bluedevil99
Noooo!

Well I AM well overdue for a rear differential service, could that have something to do with it?? That was the one fluid I didnt change when I bought the car and I recently had the whole car checked over and it was strongly recommended I get the service. I have tried to look into rear diff services on the forum but couldnt find anything so I wasnt sure if I actually needed it or not
Nice try, but no! Differentials don't slip. They tend to go all at once and you don't move.
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 04:28 AM
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So what exactly am I facing?

I took it out again, i can drive normally when manually shifted into first and second, but drive and overdrive just rev like crazy.

I probably dont want the answer to this.. but Im looking at a rather large pricetag arent I?
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 05:00 AM
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First check the tranny fluid color, smell, and level. You mention you had the fluids changed recently. Did they change the filter also?

Pete K can clue you in on a rebuild cost. Yeah, rather large.
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by RRT vette
First check the tranny fluid color, smell, and level. You mention you had the fluids changed recently. Did they change the filter also?

Pete K can clue you in on a rebuild cost. Yeah, rather large.
I dont THINK the filter was changed, no. Its really odd because I had been driving a bunch today and everything worked great. Then I started it up, and it quit.

Recently was about June. As I recall it was just a flush/fluid exchange. It looks and smells all right I know that, but Ill have to check the level tomorrow morning when I can see.

Funds for a tranny rebuild arent easily available right now, not good
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 05:58 AM
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How many miles are on it? The problem with a flush and no filter change is the flush can break loose sediments and then that can clog an already old filter. Its a long shot, but I would first check fluid level. Just in case you dont know, usually on a automatic, to check fluid, it needs to be warm, parked on a flat surface, with motor running, shift into drive for a few seconds, then into reverse for a few seconds, then put in park. Then still with motor running, pull dipstick, wipe off, reinsert and check level.
However, if it were me, I would not worry about warming it up. Just check by running through drive, reverse, etc., and it should be within a pint of being full cold.
Assuming the fluid level is ok, then you may want to consider dropping the pan and changing filters.
If that does not work, its going to be needing a overhaul.
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop
How many miles are on it? The problem with a flush and no filter change is the flush can break loose sediments and then that can clog an already old filter. Its a long shot, but I would first check fluid level. Just in case you dont know, usually on a automatic, to check fluid, it needs to be warm, parked on a flat surface, with motor running, shift into drive for a few seconds, then into reverse for a few seconds, then put in park. Then still with motor running, pull dipstick, wipe off, reinsert and check level.
However, if it were me, I would not worry about warming it up. Just check by running through drive, reverse, etc., and it should be within a pint of being full cold.
Assuming the fluid level is ok, then you may want to consider dropping the pan and changing filters.
If that does not work, its going to be needing a overhaul.
It only has 55,000 miles. Its relatively low mileage.

Tomorrow morning I am going to check the level, and if thats ok, Im going to do exactly as you guys have mentioned and have the filter checked/replaced. I bought this car with low mileage to avoid problems exactly like this. But I love it too much to be angry

Really though, a tranny rebuild just doesnt fit the budget, that will not be welcome news.
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 06:41 AM
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But if you do have to do a rebuild, its a great time for upgrades such as shift kits or higher stall converters if that is your thing.
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 09:59 AM
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I would think that the first thing you'd wanna check before thinking the worst, would be the TV Cable adjustment. This sounds like a classic symtom of it being misadjusted. Check this link, it should help http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 10:06 AM
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Unfortunately,
He does not have a tv cable to adjust . Trans is electronic.
Losing 3-4 clutch pack is a fairly common way to die. In my area, the following prices are typical:
$400 for the removal and replacement
$30 for fluid
Standard bench rebuild $700-$1200
Solenoids add to the bill.
Broken hard parts(not at all likely) would also add to the bill.
Stock type remanufactured torque converter $200

I usually step up to a higher quality stock type converter that is stalled to my specs.
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 11:01 AM
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If it is slipping it can set a DTC on a 95, which would be DTC #80 (thats not to say it will though, it just can). This may or may not set the service engine soon light, i think the default setting for this code in the ECM switch table is set so it wont show the service engine soon light.
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 12:13 PM
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I agree if you are not low on fluid, which would usually cause a problem in any gear, sound like the clutch packs are going.
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 12:34 PM
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There is little use in spending and wasting time and money trying to fix it now. As much, and as bad,as those clutches have been slipping, regardless of the cause, the damage is done. Save your money for the trans overhaul. You're going to need it.

Transmission fluid and rear and grease do not come in contact with one another. Unless one or the other unit would lock up, suddenly, and cause shock load damage to the other, the maladies of one unit are not contagious to the other.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 02:14 PM
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pete knows his stuff.trust him. when you change filter ,try a bottle of lucas trany additive, it cant hurt, and it might enable you to drive a little longer until finances are better. what do you think pete?
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete K
Unfortunately,
He does not have a tv cable to adjust . Trans is electronic.
Losing 3-4 clutch pack is a fairly common way to die. In my area, the following prices are typical:
$400 for the removal and replacement
$30 for fluid
Standard bench rebuild $700-$1200
Solenoids add to the bill.
Broken hard parts(not at all likely) would also add to the bill.
Stock type remanufactured torque converter $200

I usually step up to a higher quality stock type converter that is stalled to my specs.
Same thing happened to me and Pete called that right on the money for me . $2700 later And about a week and a half, it was back in the car . Seems to be alright but a few issue's they cant seem to iron out.
Pete..... we should have done the shipping thing. I don't want to take up our brothers thread here, I'll get ahold of you later.
Bryan
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 04:20 PM
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ugh I tried taking it out for a drive today hoping it was all just a bad dream. Its quite real i could drive it around in 2nd ok, but D and OD are useless.

Checked the fluids, they are 100% ok, havent checked the filter yet because I cant find anyone to do it on a saturday aside from firestone. And they no longer get my business.

Im going to see if I cant find an alternate vehicle to use while I save money for the tranny rebuild, if not the vette is going to have to go, because unfortunately my employer for whatever reason values regular attendance.
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 5pinball
pete knows his stuff.trust him. when you change filter ,try a bottle of lucas trany additive, it cant hurt, and it might enable you to drive a little longer until finances are better. what do you think pete?

It will likely not help, but cannot hurt either. Worth a try. Lubeguard is the prefered brand.
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Old Dec 3, 2006 | 05:02 AM
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Well working out my finances.. I think I am going to buy an el-cheapo car to get me around while I save money for the tranny. I love my car too much to sell it.

So while we are on the subject, you guys mentioned upgrading it while I had it apart. What would you all suggest I put in? Is there a significant cost difference, (and what about cost vs gain?)

I have lots of questions because I am a tranny noob!

Im also guessing regardless of who I have rebuild the tranny it would be cheaper to order the parts myself and hand them over?
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