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Well I'm pretty certain that mine's not because of the torque arm. That sucker was torqued in to spec. during the re-install of my tranny.
What do the differential bushings look like? The RX-7 guy explained what it feels like to me. It feels like someting in the rear (not to one side nor the other) bumps 1 way on acceleration and the other way on deceleration.
I want to inspect these diff. bushings but what am I looking for? I'm pretty much a beginner too and I don't know what I'm looking for. I REALLY wanna get rid of this CLUNK! Mine is definantly not a click...
There are two big rubber bushings that deal with the bolts that hold the differential carrier on the car. Left and right of center, up high above the diff cover. Will be hard to tell much from a visual exam, they're hidden by washers and frame brackets.
My control arm bushings are being replaced tomorrow (Thursday). I should know whether this solves *my* clunk by tomorrow evening.
Don't know about the rest of you but my clunk's not just a noise... it actually jars the car pretty durn good...
When I'm looking for that bushing around the diff like was mentioned, what exactly am I looking for? My clunk does not seem to be biased to the left nor the right...
If it's jarring the car check the bolts that hold the C-arm to the rear diff and to the tranny-ASAP!
Here are your choices to the Clunk, Thump Yadda Yadda Yadda. Iit is eiither in the transmission. It may need to have the vacuum checked out on it. There may be problems in that if it is a thump. If it is a click, check the "Half SHafts" in the rear. They are drive shafts that go to each tire directly from the rear end of the car. You will notice them when you look under the car. I had the clicking problem and looked at the U-Joint on the drive tire half shaft and man did it look like it took a SERIOUS beating. replaced it for about $50 bucks or so. Didnt pay for it just had it added to my bill at the auto parts store. But it is well worth the look. The U-Joint is sealed so it will not spin ANY grease and if it were a bearing it would not be a click.
Haven't had the time to work on the vette yet. Alternator bearings went out Monday and that took priority. This weekend would be good but wife plans for us to move her rose garden (big job), and dismantle her raised garden beds (bigger job) to make room for adding a turnaround to our driveway. Five vehicles and only a two place carport. :D
Trans has only 24k miles with shift kit installed; works flawlessly. clunk/thump/click occurs with sudden change in mometum even without a gear change such as flooring it on the roll.
Half shafts and ujoints replaced last month with diff rebuild. I also expected that would do it but it didn't. I did notice a slight click in the hubs when I checked them by hand during the diff redo. I now wish I had torn them down during the two weeks I had it up on the jack stands. I also had the driveshaft rebalanced.
I'm betting that my clunk (and maybe others) is transmission based. Like I said, when I place the shift into (D) overdrive, no clunk occurs. I only hear it when I am in D 3rd. I am going to try an experiment: drive the car up to 30mph, shift it into neutral and put my foot on the brake and slowly coast to a stop. How many think that I will NOT hear the clunk?? I think so.. THEN, that will eliminate U-joints, control arm bushings etc. I'm wondering about the torque converter :confused:
Transmission Flush - has anyone had a tranny flush that has this problem? The flush removes all the old fluid not just
the 4 qts in the pan. It replaces about 10 qts. I was thinking of having this done to try to solve this clunk thing.
What does everyone think about this?
I went over to thirdgen.org. Guess what? The Camaro's have the same problem. Check out the
links below. They think it's the tranny mount. Worn or broken. They suggest replacing with a
poly unit from Energy Suspension. Comments?
I had an embarrassing thump/clunk that sounded like it was coming from right behind my seat in my left ear. The sound was what you might expect if you rapped the side of your car with a rubber hammer - a hammer-on-fiberglass thump noise. It happened when I braked fairly hard - brakeTHUMP! - then would unload itself upon acceleration - vrooomTHUMP!. I could make it go away for a little while by progressively loading it up - <brake>THUMP!...<brake>Thump!...<brake>t hump!...brake<quiet>.
It's gone as of yesterday afternoon. I removed the rear upper and lower spindle control arms on the driver's side, and replaced them with new control arms with Prothane bushings. No more clunk. I'm SO happy!
I'm going to take some pictures of my old arms/bushings and post a pointer to them. They're pretty weathered, and very distorted.
Well, I had the transmission power flushed. They removed the pan, added a new filter and added a total of 18½ quarts. They said the pan took 6½ qts rather than the called for number of 4 qts. The filter sucks up a bit. I checked the level myself after I got home and the level on hte dip stick is correct.
But the clunk is still there. :confused: :confused: It MAY be wishful thinking, but the clunk does not seem as loud. Again, this is when I have hte shift lever in D 3rd and she shifts from 3 - 2. In (D), no clunk when I slow down or speed up. Someone on hte thirdgen.org said when you drive a 700r4 in D, it's normal for it to clunk when it shifts from 2-3. It "binds" or something?
Here's another description of my problem: it feels like towing a trailer(sp?) when the trailer is knocking forward and backward on the hitch as you initially accelerate and decelerate. This is how it feels when I'm coasting VERY slowly. It will actually knock back and forth like I'm ghetto glidin' in some ragged out Caddy...
I tried in vain to get the hubs off yesterday to clean the splines. I broke two 1/2" drive ratchets with my 6' cheater bar and the nuts didn't budge! :mad I used a cold chisel and a four pound slegde but nuts no move :mad :mad . I did a number on the nut and now I'll have to order some new ones from Jeff Kopp and pay someone else to get those bad boys off. Quick visual and shake of the control arms did not reveal any cracks or free play. Nevertheless, I'm getting the poly bushings from MAD or Eckler's.
As for our brothers with the F-body, if they want to put on poly trans mounts, more power to ya' but not for me. I did that on a Datsun 240Z many years ago and took them back off because the vibration was unbearable. It makes sense for a drag car or racer but not for the street. If the spline and control arm fix doesn't work, I'll replace mine with fresh OEM.
My u-joints are fine, must be a different clunk. Mine occurs when the tranny down shifts from 3-2 or upshifts from
2-3. But only when I have the shifter in the D position. Does not happen in (D).
The new poly control arm bushings are here as are the new spindle nuts. Dropping the vette off Monday evening at shop 20 miles away. I will post results.