I'm seriously looking into putting a mini ram in my car as well as a mega squirt FI system. Has anyone done the same? What were the results? How did the programming go for the mega squirt? Last but not least, does the mini ram actually put out the power they claim?

Thanks, Jay

 

the HP claims of the miniram are a bit misleading when compared to the stock TPI setup, since the stock TPI has a hard time making any HP.
but its not a bad intake.

I've been looking into the megasquirt too and its hard to find anyone thats done it on a vette or camaro ( there is some info on the thirdgen.net site, but not much).
I have seen a megasquirt in action on a friends turbo VW. and it does appear to be a slightly better system to tune than our stock ECM/programming.
it would be a fair amount of work to install one on a vette (wiring, some sensors and a whole lot of reading/testing/setting up).

Is the megasquirt worth the effort? I'd say it would depend on how radical a combo you plan to run. the stock ECM can do a decent job with tuning. the more radical you get the more the megasquirt would shine (with ease of tuning and driveablity).

I'm still undecided, mine runs pretty good right now and I don't think the megasquirt would add any WOT power. I think it would run better (part throttle, cruise, idle) and be easier to tune with the MS. but for me its a alot of work/expense for improving those small areas.

 

how can i tune the stock ECM?? Or do you mean adding a programmed chip?

 

yes a e-prom (chip) is what it takes on our cars.

you can buy all the stuff to burn your own chips for about $400-$500 (maybe less nowadays) depends on what free stuff you use (like scanning software). (check out the sticky thread in C4 scan and tune area)

you'll need a laptop in either case (megasquirt or scanning the stock ECM).

there's a whole lot of reading/learning involved in both systems, so if you plan to do more mod's later (cam, heads, stroker motor ect.) then learning the megasquirt to begin with might be a good idea.

but if your just going to add a few mod's to the stock block then it could be cheaper to have a local tuner do the reprogramming for you.
(I always recommend trailering your car to someone close, instead of going the mail order route, it gets done faster/better).
RJ

 

I dont know the megasquirt system, but it wont make quite what TPiS claims if you just throw it on and tune it.

You have to pick a camshaft to go with it, and better heads than what comes on 86. If you arent doing that, then I dont see the point in any of it.

read my website

 

I agree with Vader I had a combo that with an intake swap (LT1 conversion)pickup 5 mph, but lost torque. I tried the stock TPI and got a 1.6s 60 FT but the engine fell on its face at 4200 rpm w/ hot cam, 180 iron eagle heads and 2.59 gears, I change the intake and the powerband completely change. And at that time I had a stock converter in the trans, 2200 stall 86 I just swap cam and intake again (trying different combos) just to see what's all around good for me. I also have a accel gen 6 DFI

 

I know guys using the MegaSquirt on other cars, and have messed with it a bit. I actually have one for my Jeep sitting there uninstalled. So keep in mind I will be using one myself on a car.

The MegaSquirt os nice and will allow the use of a widband for tuning instead of the stock narrow band. I would look at the MegaSquirt 2, it is suppose to have added features. The MS is not set up for a stepper motor IAC, so big cams where that would be nice will require you to be be creative with your tune at idle.

With anything pre-ODB-2 I would say it's better to use the stock ECU and reprogram it via a tuner or reflash your own EEPROM. OBD-2 cars are not as easy to do yourself, but getting one programmed for you is still easy, unlike other cars who don't have that option. The nice thing about keeping your stock ECU is you don't loose any of the functionaity from the ECU and CCM talking to each other.

The Mega Squirt is an excellent choice for those people who have no options on their stock computer, and the choice is a build it yourself fuel/spark computer or a $3,000 standalone.

But with the ability to reprogram the ECU, unless you are going up to a much more expensive standalone, i.e. Electromotive TEC-3, FAST, or something along those lines, and you are spending a lot of time at the strip, I would stick with a reprogrammed stock ECU.

 

The '727' ECM is the one I selected to use on my '73 Super Cheyenne TPI conversion.
Figured GM had spent about a few zillion bucks developing it and perfecting it. Not that it is perfect... it's just a good all around ECM.

My thinking is the MEga-Squirt is an ongoing project

IT's the speed density ECM used on Vettes, Camaros, Pontiacs, V6's, V8's , etc, etc.

It's a batch fire system but I haven't seen any info that points to higher power levels made just becasue of SFI systems.

 

Duplicate two.

 

Duplicate

 

sorry, didn't list the mods- L98 blocked bored to 355ci, ported heads, comp cams cam( dont have the specs in front of me, but not TOOO lopy) underdrive pulleys, A.I.R. delete (entire system including EGR) and I'm waiting on my exhaust to come in- Supercomp headers and TPiS 3" cat-back....does this sound like a decent combo if i were to add the mini-ram and there magnum VI chip?

 

What heads are on it and what are the specs on the cam?

 

automatic or manual?
cast pistons, hyperutectic or forged?

I think the stock computer should handle it unless this is a ongoing project with high goals.

 

sorry it took so long....The heads are factory 86 aluminum with a little porting, nothing major, I've been trying to find the spec sheet on the cam but cant find it, If i remember correctly it was 220/220@.50. And its an automatic with forged internals. I also have a set of richmond 3.54's laying around that i've been debating on whether or not i want to put in...what do you think?

 

you'll probably get alot of super ram recommendations, that or holley stealth ram (has to be seriously reworked to clear the hood and must use a small distributor setup).
and I'd have to agree with them.
with those heads and the automatic trannie your car would be faster with the super ram or holley setup (for less money overall).

since you have a 355ci motor the usable RPM range is going to be a bit higher than what you see on graphs comparing 383ci motors (if I'm not mistaken thats what is compared on TPIS's site). the HP and TQ peaks will happen a bit higher as well (maybe 300-500rpm). so thats something to consider.

you can make the minram work as well, it might take more changes to get the most out of it (the 3.54's, better heads maybe, ect.), but those are things you wouldn't HAVE to do with a super ram (the 3.54's might help if you can get traction).
RJ

 

Hi,

The miniram is a nice intake. I've tried a lot of intakes over the years, and the absolute fastest setup I had was a supercharged singleplane EFI intake, but the miniram N/A has been working pretty good on the vette so far. It does have the typical airflow distribution issues that any short-runner horizontally fed intake would have, which on a batch fire system cannot be corrected but its hardly anything to notice on a n/a motor.

As far as megasquirt goes,it's a nice setup. A local guy to me, and forum member Mike (can't remember his nic) uses one on his vette. A lot of guys on thirdgen.org use 'em as well.

I've tried a lot of ECM's and factory calibrations, and some heavily modified code ($60 for example which is based on the sy_ty truck stuff for forced induction applications). I really like the way the $8D code works on the '730/'727 ECM's in the 90-92 fbody and 90-91 ybody.

My advice to you:

1) Get the miniram, you will love it
2) Pick up a '730 ECM from a fbody, pick up an ostrich and memcal adapter from moates.net (about $225 total).
3) Grab a copy of tunerpro R/T by magnus.
4) Contact me about repinning your '165 harness to '730 specs, wire in
a map sensor, remove the esc module, maf, and a few minor splices in the engine bay.Sell your maf for a ton of money since it's a 'vette maf'.

Tunerpro R/T with the ostrich will allow you tune realtime, with the car running, making changes and watching how they respond. You DO NOT need a wideband. A wideband is good for dialing WOT in at a specific AFR, or troubleshooting a stupid rich or stupid lean condition. You CANNOT TUNE PART THROTTLE with a wideband unless you are going to force open loop all the time. (making it a non-feedback system). And once you get on a dyno, you will find that you don't make the most power at whatever today's published 'magic afr' is anyway, so the wideband becomes an even bigger waste of money. The slightest exhaust leak will throw it off. It often needs to be removed and taken to fresh-air to recalibrate, etc. (can you tell i've been doing this for a whil??).

Good luck, and feel free to ask any questions. I'm a moderator over at thirdgen.org on the Alternative port EFI board. (singleplane intakes, hsr, miniram, and so on). I've done my own conversions, bought a ton of different intakes, and tinkered with a lot of different setups.


-- Joe