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I have had an intermittent ignition problem for the past couple years that even the dealer (and other mechanics) can't find ...even after keeping the car there a few days - they couldn't find the problem of why sometimes the car just wouldn't start. I am pretty sure there is no spark when that problem happens. It's stupid but I have to live with this until the problem becomes less intermittent.
Now the problem is that the car just completely dies when I am running normally - the ignition just cuts out. I don't think there are many more things, save wheels falling off, which are as dangerous. It seems like jiggling wires around the 'tach' and 'batt' leads around the distributor fixed the problem - but I think I was fooling myself. I tightened up and checked all connections and the problem now is still there.
Any suggestions or trouble shooting techniques you have would be valued. The car is at my girlfriends and i'll be able to diagnose it on the weekend - so I'm trying to gather some info to aid me.
Most of the time in situations like this, there is a wire rubbing something and it finally wore through the insulation. It is just a small hole, so it does not always short.
Pull all the ignition wires until you find one that is burnt, rubbed through, etc.
Good Luck,
it's a 1989 glacier white with only 63k sweet miles on it.
I was thinking about wires shorting or rubbing also - do you need a minimum separation between high voltage plug wires - i would guess the insulation is enough.
it's a funny problem, i just want to be well prepared before I pull and check all the wires and connections or else I'll be causing other problems.
I recently had a miss in my IROC LB9 ignition. I diagnosed it to faulty dist connections with a timing light clipped across each wire in succession. On two wires the light missed flashes in unison with the engine miss.
A timing light would immediately tell you if you have spark or not, in case that is still an issue. If ignition is the issue and all relavent wires have no burn-through nor separated internal conductors and all connectors are clean and making solid contact, you might suspect the ignition module or coil within the dist.
I had a very similiar situation with my car. It turned out to be the ECM on its way out. $350 and two years later, everything is working fine. The other members had some very good suggestions as well. You may want to check into those before going for the expensive ECM replacement.
Re: Dangerous Ignition Problem (Ricks1989Roadster)
Check the batt and tach connectors that plug into the distributor to make sure that the plastic locking mechanism on the actual connector is not broken off. Sometimes when this happens the connector will vibrate loose and shut off the ignition. If they are good check inside of the connectors for any corrosion and you might want to take off the dist cap and check the two wires going to the tach and batt connections inside. I had this happen to my car also. Good luck. :cheers: