I plan on changing my front and rear pads out this weekend and was wondering what I would need other than the pads themselves, the necessary tools and brake cleaner (non-water based). I plan on taking my rotors to a local mechanic for rotation if they need it.

And has anyone used Z-rated life time warranty brake pads from Autozone? $72.00 for fronts seems mighty appealing versus the dealership's cost... 200 bucks for just the fronts! Sheesh!


[Modified by Reverend Nasty, 9:05 AM 10/1/2001]

 

You will need special high temp silicone grease for where the ends of the backing plates rub against the caliper and retaining spring clips. There should be stick on rub strips that go on the back of the pads to prevent squealing. This should be part of the kit. Look at the pads that you pull out.

Do one side at a time so if you get stuck, you can look at the other side to figure out where stuff goes.

Also, you should get a quart of brake fluid to flush the system while you are there. Get a Brake Clean spray in a can.

For the front pads, all you need is needle nose plier to pull the c-clip on the retaining pin. For the rears, you have to unbolt the calipers. Don't forget to push the pistons all the way.

For the rears, the bolts that attach the calipers to the hub have some type of thread sealant to prevent them from backing out. I used anti-sieze, but the shop manual says to use a thread lock compound instead.

If the rotors are chewed up or pulsing thru the pedal, then you need to turn the rotors per Helms service manual. Otherwise, leave them alone. I left mine alone when I changed pads at 33k miles. Machining rotors can give them a run-out which was not there before resulting in pulsing brake pedal. Your call.

 

Thanks for the info! I was able to install new front pads with relative ease using your helpful hints. After replacing the pads it seems my brakes still aren't quite right. When I brake I can hear a hissing sound coming from the driver's side console area. The brakes do not hit the floor, but it almost feels like I have no power brakes. The brake fluid is at an adequate level. I am hoping the brake booster isn't shot. I also noticed the old front pads wore unevenly. The insides wore down more quickly than the outsides. Is it possible the calipers need replacing or is that natural wear?


[Modified by Reverend Nasty, 1:22 PM 10/1/2001]

 

You have a vacuum leak that involves your booster. It could be the plastic "fitting" that attaches to the booster itself that's attached to the line running to the plenum. You need to do more troubleshooting to pinpoint it.

 

Yup definitely a vacuum leak at the master cylinder somewhere. Hunt that down and you will notice a pretty improvement in braking. You may also have a vacuum leak inside the master cylinder, but I hope not. Have someone gently press the brake pedal while you listen under the hood, that may help.

Good Luck, Bob