New engine problems
Example: With my 86E in open loop, I had a idle surge that caused the RPM to go up and down. Once the ECM went closed loop the idle surge went away. The idle was steady. This made it sort of difficult to locate the leak in a matter of 3-4 minutes, until closed loop. Found the vac leak the size of a pencil eraser on the end of the PVC aluminum vac tube. Plug the end and no more surging.......
Also forgot to mention the engine is very hard to start when cold as well. I deleted the cold start injector. Maybe that has something to do w/ it?
Last edited by NUckINg FuTS; Dec 30, 2006 at 11:16 AM.
Also forgot to mention the engine is very hard to start when cold as well. I deleted the cold start injector. Maybe that has something to do w/ it?
I'de imagine a vacume leak, but could be a number of things. My 357 with a miniram starts right up and holds idle w/o a problem. Who did the chip? Could be a number of things. Can you hook up diacom or some type of scanner to it?
BTW, what part of chicago do you live in?
I'de imagine a vacume leak, but could be a number of things. My 357 with a miniram starts right up and holds idle w/o a problem. Who did the chip? Could be a number of things. Can you hook up diacom or some type of scanner to it?
My chip was done by Jesse Azzato (ski_dwn_it). I am doubting its the tune. This is your basic 219/superram combo which I know Jesse has alot of experience with.
I am on the North side, Belmont and Cumberland but the Vette is in Indiana.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Im right off the lake front by the museum of science and industry. About 15 minutes form n/w indiana.
I'll be spending as much time as possible at US41 when it open up next year. Hopefully we can meet up and make some 1/4 mile runs. I think it would be fun and informative for everyone to do some s/r vs miniram runs!
The CSV is only active during cranking at temps below 95*. The switch times out at ~8 seconds after the engine is running. Any cranking temps above 95* and the CSV is not active. If anything in the system is faulty causing the CSV not to work, will cause extended cranking times... cold.
The CSV is only active during cranking at temps below 95*. The switch times out at ~8 seconds after the engine is running. Any cranking temps above 95* and the CSV is not active. If anything in the system is faulty causing the CSV not to work, will cause extended cranking times... cold.
Yes, cold start injector. Yes, it can be deleted out of your chip. It's there to help with cold starts as the fuel delivery is not enough with the 85-88 165 ECM's. In 89 the CSV was deleted when the ECM was upgraded (faster). There is more to this, but thats the run down.
PS. If you have a scanner, what are the IAC counts? This will tell you if the IAC is trying to bring the idle down and is unable to due to a vacuum leak.
Last edited by edcmat-l1; Jan 2, 2007 at 08:01 AM.
You can try and blow cigar smoke into the TB with the engine running.
To start have a garden hose ready and nearby, the stuff if flamable, but if you just use it in little squirts, letting it evaporate you will be perfectly fine...the hose is just for precaution if you do get a flame...done it many times and never had an issue...found MANY leaks that went undetected with other methods.
To start you want your car running and at temp, do it where you can easily hear the motor RPM changing - not near heavy traffic etc if you live near a busy street. To get a feel for what the motor will do when it sees the starter fluid, spray a little down around the air cleaner - you should hear the motor rev up a little ~300rpms.
THen just proceed to spray it, again in small amounts, around all the seams of the intake. When you get to an area leaking it will rev the motor like it did with the spray near the air cleaner.....THAt is your vacuum leak area!
It is very easy and if you use caution very safe!
Good luck and if you need anything let me know!
Jesse
To start have a garden hose ready and nearby, the stuff if flamable, but if you just use it in little squirts, letting it evaporate you will be perfectly fine...the hose is just for precaution if you do get a flame...done it many times and never had an issue...found MANY leaks that went undetected with other methods.
To start you want your car running and at temp, do it where you can easily hear the motor RPM changing - not near heavy traffic etc if you live near a busy street. To get a feel for what the motor will do when it sees the starter fluid, spray a little down around the air cleaner - you should hear the motor rev up a little ~300rpms.
THen just proceed to spray it, again in small amounts, around all the seams of the intake. When you get to an area leaking it will rev the motor like it did with the spray near the air cleaner.....THAt is your vacuum leak area!
It is very easy and if you use caution very safe!
Good luck and if you need anything let me know!
Jesse

I have the diacom software, cables and laptop to hook up to your car. If intrested let me know. If your car is in n/w indiana its proabbly not too far from my home. I stay off the lake about 15 minutes from hammond indiana. let me know.
















Ours had a bad time with returning to idle speed with the vac leak.