I'd ask the original owner for his receipts. If he really spent any money, he'd have the receipts to show what was done. Either that, or he's a liar or doofus.

 

The car has been through numerous hands before me.
I don't know the history but I did find receipts for lots of electrical problem diagnostics and notes on those receipts about the fact that at some time in the past someone was in the dash fiddling with things. I have since had the entire dash out of the car and have put things into more of a factory order, but I could tell that this thing had been tampered with in a big way at some point. I only wish I knew the detailed history.
Carfax report showed most of its miles put on in it's first 5 years and then it seemed to have sat for a long time.
I haven't really had any issues with it for the five years I've had it so I can't complain. It's 20 years old and things like this are bound to happen, the odometer reads 178,000.
It's never left me on the side of the road.

 

With 178,000 miles, I wouldn't complain either. The only other vehicle that I've had with more mile is a '65 VW Bus that had 250,000 miles on it when I finally sold it (yes. they were bullitt-proof).

 

Looks like the fuel pressure is normal and you state it holds. I would rule out a leaky injector. Have you checked for adequate spark on all 8? It should be 1/2" and bluish orange. I suppose the new alternator fixed the flickering lights and dying problem? Is it still running rich? From what you have posted, that must just be condensation in the exhaust if it does not smell like gas or burnt oil. With that many miles I would do a cylinder compression check just to check the health of the rings and valves. Anything new and what are the problems at this point?

 

So the battery and alternator seemed to fix this electrical issue and the car has not thrown a code either.

I pulled all the plugs and only #3 was black. It was rich not oil soaked. I put a new set of plugs in and took it for a drive and performance is the same. Still has a miss up top.

Waiting for it to cool off and going to check #3 plug again.

If I slowly press the pedal down while driving it starts to accelerate smoothly and then it gets to a point beyond 50% throttle that feels like secondaries kicking in and that is when the miss starts to occur every time. Anything before that feels normal.

As far as the condition of the engine I know I did a compression test when I first bought it and I don’t remember the exact numbers but I do remember being skeptical about it being fresh and after doing the compression test changing my mind. From what I can recall the cylinders were all the same with the exception of one and it was only off by 5lbs.

I’ll have to get another compression tester and recheck them because mine it not holding pressure for some reason.

I have also had the pan off within the last couple of years and the inside of the engine was very clean, and there was cross hatch in the cylinders. It hasn’t been burning any oil since the intake work. Every time I check the oil level it has been the same since I did the intake. I believe it was leaking a bit at the valley into #7 before I did the intake because it used to use a little oil and would always blow a small plume of smoke upon initial start up, and that has all stopped since I‘ve done the intake and injectors.

 

 

I just pulled #3 and it is black again.

I noticed the cold start injector is closest to #3 could it be causing this?

Maybe this injector is leaking, I'll have to check it out again. I know this injector is ticking like the others.

 

they crack gasoline with water, and some remains in the fuel. the water doesn't burn, so it travels into the exhaust as superheated steam.(hence the steam on chilly winter mornings and rotted tailpipes from the inside out).
there will always be water in the tailpipe on start up because the superheated steam turns back into water and when u shut it off, some vapors return to water, and when u start it up, it blows out.
an excessive amount is indicative of a problem head gasket

 

For the miss up top I would ohm the spark plug wires (5000 ohm per foot). Have you checked the fuel pressure when you feel the miss? It shouldn't drop. Try a bottle of injector cleaner in the tank. The CSV could be leaking and is hell to test. I actually had to remove the plenum to be able to loosen the fuel rail connection and take the bolt out that holding the CSV. I pressurized the system and looked for a leak. If it holds then you should be fine. That injector is only active during cranking times and only for 8 seconds after the engine starts. If you ohm the CSV coil it will be 4-6 ohm.

 

Fixed my compression tester and pulled all the plugs and did a compression test and the numbers wern't that great.
High was 150 and the low was 135 dry.
They all went up with the wet test, highest was 160, lowest was 150.

Engine is showing some age for sure but not dead. Ohm tested all the wires and there fine.

#3 is still black and all the others are too clean as far as I am concerned so I think the #3 injector has a problem.

I pulled the connector off #3 at it killed the cylinder so If it is leaking it's not enough to fire at idle or anywhere else in the range.

Here's a pic of one of the new plugs with 300 miles on it, all but #3 look alike. White electrode looks like it's never been used.




And this is one of the old ones that were in prior to the intake R&R. I put these in 5 or so years ago when I first bought the car, damn there may be 20 or 30,000 miles on it. All 8 looked like this one. That is grey/white not tan.