C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Rear Bushing Replacement

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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 12:52 PM
  #1  
bills1985corvette's Avatar
bills1985corvette
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From: Troy Illinois
Default Rear Bushing Replacement

I would like to get a detailed description on how to replace all the rear bushings on my 1985 Corvette. I have the shop manual (which gives good detail on the area but not much instruction) and the 101 Projects (which I feel provides very little help). I would like a detailed description (e.g. jack up car, remove wheel, remove bolt holding X to Y, etc) and pictures would be a big help. If this does not already exist I will put a detailed description with pictures together when I do the job. Just seems so many on this Forum have done this job you would think someone would have written a detailed how-to.

I plan on ordering the full rear rebuild kit from PST.

After I rebuild the rear I will try replacing the front bushing (looks a lot more dificult).

Thanks and a Happy New Year to all.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 12:23 AM
  #2  
CentralCoaster's Avatar
CentralCoaster
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
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Put the car on jackstands..

Unload the rear spring ends with a floor jack (use wood or something to protect the spring)

Remove the spring bolts.

Now simply unbolt everything that has a bushing on it.

Some have replaced the batwing bushings one at a time using a big C-clamp without removing the whole thing from the car. The stock batwing bushings are smaller and in an aluminum sleeve. You have to cut the sleeve carefully to remove it. The poly bushings don't reuse this sleeve. They don't reuse the swaybar end link sleeves either.

You need to purchase sway bar bushings seperately.

Shock grommets are also sold seperately.

I would highly recommend replacing all Ujoints and checking the wheel bearings while you're in there.

It's all included in this repair here:

http://webpages.charter.net/khasting...o/rearend.html
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 12:59 AM
  #3  
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Aggravated4life
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It also helps to have a dremel tool with some sanding rolls.Youll find as you get alot of the old bushings and sleeves out,theres alot of white powdery alloy corrosion going on in there.I used a sanding roll to sand it all out and get that white aluminum rust out of the bushing eyes.

Make it smooth again for the new greased bushings to slide in easier.
Youll see what I mean when you get the rubber out.

Also,you can invest in some rubber latex gloves and buy a tube of Marine grease...its intended for a grease gun but you can simply pop the ends off and with gloves,pull the grease out of the tubes,and use it sparingly in the bushings.

Marine grease is water proof and very hard to wash off...thats the need for the gloves...that being said,youll have more than enough to lube the bushings with.The small bags of sticky white grease you get with a bushing kit is never enough.

The marine grease I bought was from advance auto and was a dark green colored.Never had a squeak problem using this grease with the poly style bushings,even a long time after I did the job.

Be sure to mark the 2 cam alignment bolts for the 2 long rear support rods that connect the rear to the lower control arms,before reomval.I used white touch up paint to make the marks.

That way,after the bushing install,on reinstall,youll have a close enough former alignment to drive the car to get it realigned.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 08:02 AM
  #4  
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bills1985corvette
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From: Troy Illinois
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Thanks a lot! This is great information.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 09:35 AM
  #5  
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DRAKEFAMILY2
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From: 84 Blue A4 Garrison Ky
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The only thing i can add is i used a torch to heat bushings and then drove them right out. Makes for a quick removal of old bushings, just be judicious when heating up old bushing sleeves.
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