Failed Rear Leaf Spring
I was surprised and pleased with the ride as I had always heard about the buckboard like ride of a vette, but I thought mine was good. So my question is; as I want to retain the ride (and so I assume the 39.9 N/mm spring rate), are there real differences between the springs offered by GM and the aftermarket? What might they be? Changing it looks pretty straight forward, but has anyone done this in the past and may have something to pass on to those that are doing it the first time?
I guess my priorities for spring choice would be: 1- ride quality, 2- bulletproof (figure of speech), 3- reasonable cost.
Thanks,
Dave
This is a good time to go with poly bushings. (and if you want to adjust the ride height a bit the lowering kit is pretty cheap)
When you take the bolts out of the spring to diff bracket, you will be greeted with various spacers, note their location so you can reinstall them in the correct pattern.
Have new cotter pins on hand, if yours are 20yrs old they may need to be destroyed to be removed.
Use a jack on the end of the spring you are working on to keep tension on it. Jack up the spring enough that the bolt can be jiggled loosely. Remove the bolt, then slowly release the jack to remove the spring tension.
Last edited by Steve85; Jan 3, 2007 at 12:20 PM.

(or at least from fatigue), that aside, my street driven 85 coupe has a
failing rear leaf spring. I have had it about 1 ½ years and it has 52K
miles on it. It hasn’t seen tough duty. The failure has come on in the
past few months
mechanical damage (notched by a jack or ?)
Heat can lead to trouble: Track Carnage - Anyone heard this one before?
39.9 N/mm spring rate), are there real differences between the springs
offered by GM and the aftermarket?
C4 Parts, Autocross & RR or from forum used parts vendors like Vette2Vette.
Between cars being parted out and others that have been modified, the
39.9 spring will be widely available.If you are satisfied with the current
ride rate, then my vote is that a good equivalent will restore this, no
matter what the source of the spring.
Where VB&P really shine is at making a selection of higher-than-OEM
-rate composite springs available. If you happened to want to increase
the rate of your spring, I'd recommend VB&P's products and service
in a heartbeat.
A rear spring change is a straightforward task. A hoist is nice but
regular height jackstands are sufficient. A means of supporting the
spring on the metal ends as the bolts near disengagement is
required but easy to juryrig. The key is not to mark the composite
material.
Measure from the ground to the rocker panel before starting to
baseline the current ride height. There are factory-recommended
locations, perhaps someone can offer these. Use the jacking arrows
in the absence of any suggestions, (I feel any point along the ends
of the rocker is adequate as long as it is used consistently before/after.)
When removing the existing spring, take care to note the position
of the existing pieces on top and underneath the spring where it
is fastened to the batwing. These help establish ride height.
Something to order to have on hand are the rubber bushings for
the bolts that tension the spring. These are available from
GM as #10262518 - INSULATOR, SPR

.


did u use them? and if u did, for how many years?
just curious
To all that offered info and help, thanks.
Dave


1. your muffler popped off and u didn't notice the difference in the noise?
2. you didn't actually look at the spring, you just associated the noise at the back of the car to be a spring?
3. the car didn't sit low at one rear corner, and you still thought it was a spring?
sheesh
1. your muffler popped off and u didn't notice the difference in the noise?
2. you didn't actually look at the spring, you just associated the noise at the back of the car to be a spring?
3. the car didn't sit low at one rear corner, and you still thought it was a spring?
sheesh
1. Windows up, radio on, low speed through city streets, traffic, so the first thing I noticed was that the exhaust resonance may have been less. I was still trying to figure out if it really did get quieter, but by that time I was home.
2. When I pulled in the garage I did check under the car and saw that the muffler was hanging loose but didn't see the spring damage at that time. The car sat in the garage for over a week before I got around to fixing the muffler.
3. As the spring still isn't completely failed, it still doesn't sit any lower. I first saw the spring damage a couple of days ago when I jacked it up to get under it to put the muffler back on. There is no doubt, the spring is failing, (not failed, but failing).
By your tone you obviously find yourself terribly clever and think it makes you look even more so by trying to throw rocks at others. Sorry to burst your little bubble but it always works the other way. Sheesh!
Dave
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
1. your muffler popped off and u didn't notice the difference in the noise?
2. you didn't actually look at the spring, you just associated the noise at the back of the car to be a spring?
3. the car didn't sit low at one rear corner, and you still thought it was a spring?
sheesh










