"fidanza flywheel"
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,474
Likes: 44
From: Auburn MA
hi there impala balko,
thanks for your input r.e fly wheel!
so would you reccomend the fidanza would you?
where and how much is the cheapest price you seen the fidanza flywheel sold for?
is your zf gear box a black tag or blue tag?
also how much for your clutch?
so how do you about lauching the clutch rite also when you take off and whats happens if you dont do it rite?
thanks
glen
Australia
thanks for your input r.e fly wheel!
so would you reccomend the fidanza would you?
where and how much is the cheapest price you seen the fidanza flywheel sold for?
is your zf gear box a black tag or blue tag?
also how much for your clutch?
so how do you about lauching the clutch rite also when you take off and whats happens if you dont do it rite?
thanks
glen
Australia
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,474
Likes: 44
From: Auburn MA
I never heard that myth but i have 2 bald 315 35 sumitumos from doing doing rolling burners at 25 no clutch all throttle. You dont lose a thing anywhere on the rev bands and Launching for me at the track is tricky because when i try to launch hard at 2k I lay 2 gears standing still.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 8,683
Likes: 6
From: Phoenix AZ
hi there impala balko,
thanks for your input r.e fly wheel!
so would you reccomend the fidanza would you?
where and how much is the cheapest price you seen the fidanza flywheel sold for?
is your zf gear box a black tag or blue tag?
also how much for your clutch?
so how do you about lauching the clutch rite also when you take off and whats happens if you dont do it rite?
thanks
glen
Australia
thanks for your input r.e fly wheel!
so would you reccomend the fidanza would you?
where and how much is the cheapest price you seen the fidanza flywheel sold for?
is your zf gear box a black tag or blue tag?
also how much for your clutch?
so how do you about lauching the clutch rite also when you take off and whats happens if you dont do it rite?
thanks
glen
Australia
I can launch mine faily easily, but mine is a bit more difficult than most because of the friction disk, if you get a fairly stock setup, something like a Centerforce I doubt you would have any troubles launching the car. I launch mine at about 1300 RPM with no issues, the only thing is that my clutch has a pretty narrow engagement so you have to be pretty precise or it will get grabby...if I had a slightly longer engagement anyone could drive it.
Now the noise is another matter all together, I always thought the aluminum flywheels weren't that noisy at all and couldn't believe all the horror stories I had heard form other people. Well, that was until I drove a blakc-tag ZF with one, then I understood. I don't think I would like it much, and I'm VERY tolerable when it comes to dealing with mods!
I'd go with the steel F-body unit if you have a black-tag ZF, it seems like a perfect comprimise.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 14,686
Likes: 753
From: NEwhere Ohio
I'm not the only one who's had grinded shifts, difficulty moving the shift lever during high RPM shifts, etc.
And I dont know if I trust zfdoc either. He told me that the problem is clutch hydraulics, replaced that and properly bled that using his instructions no luck. He then suggested I needed to spend THOUSANDS getting the synchros rebuilt. No thanks.
I simply order GM factory fill 5w-30(not to be confused with motor oil, their is a p/n in your owners manual...I think it was discontinued, but the new p/n (syncromesh?) works fine) put that in my transmission and ALL of the problems are gone.
People on here know me as a loud-mouthed fanatic when it comes to my advice on the ZF6 transmission oil. I simply dont want you to screw up your transmission like I did mine.
Its a gimmick mod. Its like splitfire spark plugs, the airfoil, etc. Dont waste your time.
Car drives great and has ever since I switched back to gm factory fill.
If you dont trust my advice, whatever your reasons, again Id like to mention there are other people here who've had problems with the BMW Castrol 10w-60 oil yet there are NO problems (related to grinded shifts, etc.) with using GM recommended factory fill.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 241
Likes: 25
From: Gettysburg PA
Don't make the same mistake I did. I replaced my DMFW with the fidenza and couldn't stand to be in the car it was so loud. In less than 1000 miles I replace it with a new DMFW and I am much happier. I found a new LUK DMFW on ebay for $650. Good Luck
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,816
Likes: 2
From: Austin, TX
This all really boils down to what you're doing with your car. If it's a daily driver, The stock dual-mass FW and GM fluid are perfect.
If it's purely a track car, the Fidanza is definitely a nice piece. Yes, there is more noize in the trans, but in a track car, who cares. I won't touch the trans fluid topic in this regard since there are several flame wars available through the search tool.
On the other hand, if you use your car for both street and track (weekend toy, whatever), then it's really a matter of personal preference. I have a Fidanza in mine with Castrol fluid. I've been very happy with it, but then again I'm very tolerant to a noisy harsh car. I've had several people ask about the excess noise (between the headers and the trans), some love it, some hate it. It took a little getting used to, but after a few drives I fell in love with it. That being said, if I drove my car every day, I'd switch back to the dual-mass FW.
The best advice I could offer is to try to find someone in your area who has one and ask for a ride/drive in their car. That's the only way to really see.
If it's purely a track car, the Fidanza is definitely a nice piece. Yes, there is more noize in the trans, but in a track car, who cares. I won't touch the trans fluid topic in this regard since there are several flame wars available through the search tool.
On the other hand, if you use your car for both street and track (weekend toy, whatever), then it's really a matter of personal preference. I have a Fidanza in mine with Castrol fluid. I've been very happy with it, but then again I'm very tolerant to a noisy harsh car. I've had several people ask about the excess noise (between the headers and the trans), some love it, some hate it. It took a little getting used to, but after a few drives I fell in love with it. That being said, if I drove my car every day, I'd switch back to the dual-mass FW.
The best advice I could offer is to try to find someone in your area who has one and ask for a ride/drive in their car. That's the only way to really see.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 22,209
Likes: 12
From: OBAMA IS HITLER
good write-up by Mark above....and others previously in this thread.
i might add that if you're in doubt, don't do it. because if you do and find its unnerving -- and then realize you're stuck with it after the fact -- you'll have to rip it out and buy another flywheel (stock), so thats double the expense and aggravation. and if you have to pay for the labor, look out..........
this is one of those mods with little real performance gain -- and big expense. so you have to very carefully decide what's right for you. noise, or revs. i had to learn the hard way, big noise outflanked big-whup revs by a mile.
had i known someone and driven his car to make a better informed decision, i would have never done it and more importantly never wasted the money just to find out.
you've seen posts for and against it. you can make up your mind in this thread alone.
i might add that if you're in doubt, don't do it. because if you do and find its unnerving -- and then realize you're stuck with it after the fact -- you'll have to rip it out and buy another flywheel (stock), so thats double the expense and aggravation. and if you have to pay for the labor, look out..........
this is one of those mods with little real performance gain -- and big expense. so you have to very carefully decide what's right for you. noise, or revs. i had to learn the hard way, big noise outflanked big-whup revs by a mile.
had i known someone and driven his car to make a better informed decision, i would have never done it and more importantly never wasted the money just to find out.
you've seen posts for and against it. you can make up your mind in this thread alone.
Last edited by Red Tornado; Jan 5, 2007 at 12:01 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 469
Likes: 1
thanks guys for yor comments/help!
hi there all guys,
thanks for your help and advice!
the car is just a weekend or odd driver!
so if i went to a lighter steel "f" body is that a big pain in the *** to buy all the components and get it working rite?
the steel "f" body flywheel weighs about 22 lb doesnt it?,much lighter than the dual mass anyway!
that way i will have best of both words,lighter with no noise?
thanks guys!
have agreat weekend to you all!
cheers
glen
thanks for your help and advice!
the car is just a weekend or odd driver!
so if i went to a lighter steel "f" body is that a big pain in the *** to buy all the components and get it working rite?
the steel "f" body flywheel weighs about 22 lb doesnt it?,much lighter than the dual mass anyway!
that way i will have best of both words,lighter with no noise?
thanks guys!
have agreat weekend to you all!
cheers
glen
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,474
Likes: 44
From: Auburn MA
From what i understand by what i have been told.... Its not the Alum FW that makes the noise its the fact that the heavy Dual Mass Flywheel that absorbs all the noise and when you take that away all the noise surfaces and resonates throughout the car
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 22,209
Likes: 12
From: OBAMA IS HITLER
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,816
Likes: 2
From: Austin, TX
The crankshaft really doesn't rotate at a constant speed (particularly at low RPM). Each time a cylinder fires, the crank speeds up, then slows down slightly (or pulsates).
The way the ZF trans is designed (to hold up to more power), the input shaft gears are cut relatively straight, which makes them a little more noisy. Each time the crank pulses, it causes the input shaft gear to rattle against the countershaft gear.
The stock dual mass FW dampens the crankshaft pulses and keeps the gears from ratling.
A single mass aluminum FW allows every crankshaft pulse to go straight through to the trans, thus making it rattle.
The single mass steel FW is heavier than aluminum, so it dampens the pulses a bit better, but not as good as the dual-mass FW.
The way the ZF trans is designed (to hold up to more power), the input shaft gears are cut relatively straight, which makes them a little more noisy. Each time the crank pulses, it causes the input shaft gear to rattle against the countershaft gear.
The stock dual mass FW dampens the crankshaft pulses and keeps the gears from ratling.
A single mass aluminum FW allows every crankshaft pulse to go straight through to the trans, thus making it rattle.
The single mass steel FW is heavier than aluminum, so it dampens the pulses a bit better, but not as good as the dual-mass FW.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
I have no drivability in moving away from a stop with my Fidanza with my stock LT4. I can even start in 2nd gear. There is basically no difference from the dual mass. You can drive around the gear rattle with judicous use of throttle and not lugging and you can't hear it in 6th at freeway speeds. A higher idle speed helps.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 22,209
Likes: 12
From: OBAMA IS HITLER
one's results may vary; which is also a problem because you won't know how bad it is in your application until its already installed.
this kind of mod is better suited for the racerguy who don't care either way and is looking for every ounce he can for numbers on a slip of paper.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 8,950
Likes: 4
From: Lafayette LA
