Anyone try just taking out the stock intake and just putting a high flow cone filter directly on the MAF?

If so what did you experience?

 

Whats a high flow cone? I think it cant be done because you have limited space when the hood is closed.

 

The cone is the filter element, like you see at the end of the aftermarket $300 plus set-ups. I picked up one of those APC units @ an auto store. it's 6" at the base and about 4" long. If the experiment works I'll spend some money on a "real" filter. The tip rests just at the radiator. Clearance is not an issue. As far as performance, it sounds and feels like it's getting more air, there is no distance that the air has to travel. The concern is that, when at a stop light or idling, the air is coming from the engine compartment, which is alot warmer. Yet, at driving speeds, all seems well.

I was just wondering if anyone else has done this and if they noticed any good or bad effects. The only negative I see thus far is higher water temps at idle. Not anywhere near overheat though.

 

From ecklers there's a similar setup for 91-96 vettes that uses three small k&n filters. You can always cut the lid on the factory cover.
If you have any pictures it would be better for other forum members to see what you are doing.
I didn't uderstand you at first when you wrote high flow cone thats why i asked you what is it.

 

The only problem that I could see is that you can't get a cone small enough to fit in front of the radiator. If you just put the cone on the MAF, you'll be sucking in hot air from the engine bay, and reducing performance.

I've seen some modified setups that use cones and still pull from in front of the radiator. I don't know how well this works though.

 

Haven't done it, wouldn't do it. Look at it from the standpoint of total filter area, total air flow, and air temps. Just change your filter often and cut the lid if you want.

 

Damien89 is talking about the Claw setup. Looks pretty sweet, but you'll get good results for a helluva lot less with a K&N/cut lid setup.

 

There have been a few here that did so. Use the search, there are pictures. It will more the likely cost HP, if your looking at it from a performance view.

The stock air box provides more then enough air.

How'd you get higher temp. with it? Odd.

 

1) You will be sucking in hot air........no good

2) If you can get one to fit, I am almost certain it will be much smaller than the stock unit.......

Keep us posted on what you come up with...I am interested

 

Please....no offense but there sure is a lot of "feels like", "sounds like", wooda, kooda, shooda information sometimes lacking scientific, objective information many times on this list.

Any restriction loss will usually show up more at higher rpm’s where the air pump (which is what an engine really is) needs more air. There are mathematical formulas for estimating air flow. At full throttle a stock LT1 needs about 270 cfm of air @ 3000 rpm while @ 6500 rpm the engine will need about 550 cfm. This can get complicated and please, no pissing matches as yes it can change significantly as the atmospheric conditions change. That’s why SAE correction factors were developed. On my current engine making about 470 rwhp @ 7000 rpm the engine needs about 950 cfm; so as your hp/rpm increases, so does the need for more air.

In the real world……….using a dyno as static measurement instrument (being it does not take into effect air moving into and around the engine compartment as would happen during driving) we found there a small but significant gain from just switching to a K&N filter over the stock filter. The reason it is significant, is as you do mods creating more hp, you increase the need for more air therefore it will help better later.

F-bodies generally benefit tremendously from aftermarket cold air intake systems because the stock system is very restrictive, the C-4’s system is a better design.

In moderately modified cars we found absolutely no difference between a Breathless Industries (not my favorite by any means) intake using a cone filter vs a cut lid with a K+N filter. However, in higher modified cars (making over 450 rwhp or so) the stock intake BOX was a restriction at higher rpm. My little trick posted several times of removing the filter section on one filter, stacking a K+N on top created more volume within the air box eliminated the restriction.

We’ve completely removed the air intake in front of the MAF and also noticed no difference at all on the dyno from either the cone system or the cut lid. If your engine is getting enough air, a cone the size of a trash can providing there are no other restrictions, will not help at all. Some day we plan on playing with different sized MAF's tweaking the MAF grams of air flow/frequency tables to compensate so we don't totally have to change tunes but I 100% certain on a close to stock setup you won't see anything. On highly modified engines....dunno??

In an attempt to simulate moving air entering the air intake we put a large industrial fan in from of the intake forcing air directly into it. (mini-supercharger if you will) We were able to pick up 10-14 hp when doing so. Our current conjecture and thinking is C4’s probably do benefit if the air intake is in a high pressure area of the car. I have the ram air opening with a portion of the Styrofoam from bumper and plastic bodywork cutout so the air is directed directly at the filter. My next mod will be to make this a true ram air as it appears it may help.

Bottom line….. Don’t try to recreate the wheel as there is a bunch of resources to look at were people have already tried to reinvent it. GM basically did a damn good job on the C4 intake.

 

Should also add to my post above that I saw the same effect regarding engine temps. When the cone filter was removed going back to the stock intake, (also put a new radiator shrould back on) my engine temps were lower to. Only guessing but the cone in front of the radiator may block some airflow to it.

Also not real sure intake air temps are really all that lower with a cone in front of the condenser as you got to be sucking some of the warmer air released from it and the radiator.

Ya, I know. That was a: shooda, wooda, kooda post. Shame on me.

 

I am in the process of constructing a cone filter setup for an LTx engine. It attaches directly to the MAF and yes, there are some fitment issues, I have already cracked the paint on my hood from trying to fit too large of a cone in there. I have a setup I will test today that demands very little clearance and should *barely* fit. PM me if you are interested in the details.

 

Post some pics when you get it installed!

I have an L98, but me, and I'm sure others, would love to see some pics of how you got it to work!

 

What about getting a 3" Aluminum tube with a 45deg bend off ebay, and putting your filter in the stock location. You might have to smack it w/ a mallet in the middle to shut the hood, but it would be better than the cracked, warped, stripped out, and non sealing factory low budget plastic box.

/Oh by the way, I love the factory setup! :/end sarcasm

Dave

P.S. To be fair, factory is great if in excellent condition. It isn't cool to look under the hood and see the air filter hanging on by one of those cheesy screws that are supposed to hold from both sides. Those pressed in nuts pull out after a while. Happened to me. Who knows how long I drove w/ no air filter. In addition, accordian tubes stink. I have seen problems w/ these too.

Here is one I did for my Volvo (not a vette, but have to fulfill my need to show off):

 

Jeez guys.....Agree 1000%.

Just do a cut lid, paint it, put a K&N in it, and get the rocket science stuff shooting monkies off to the moon out of your system as it don't work. Leave Home Depoy's plumbing department alone and let the stock sink some more because of the $220 mil the ex-CE0 got paid.

The stock system looks 100% better than some rigged up getto deal and doesn't crack, leak, fall off or need a bunch of duct tape to keep it together. Cracked paint on the hood (should be cheap to fix) and what was achieved??

I'm somehow confused. Wooda, kooda, shooda what?

 

My stock setup does all of these...

 

Just buy a new one. Call or e-mail Dal Slabaugh @ Van Devere Pontiac-Buick-Olds to get a wholesale price. Got to be cheaper than painting your hood

Those factory seals under the hood are there for a reason. To keep hot engine air out. You'd be getting hot air sucked up directly from behind the radiator.

WOW! The difference between a 100 degree air inlet temp with a 190 degree water temp and a 60 degree air inlet temp and 170 water temp is over 20 lbs torque and about 12 hp pretty much all across the powerband. In other words probably at least a couple of car lengths and on a modified engine a lot more loss.

Maybe it's just me......but I'm not willing to give that up to be different or save a little money.