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A few weeks ago I drove to West Virginia, 600 miles, to visit my son. It was wet most of the trip, rain or fog or both. After the visit it was nice and sunny and when I started the car, 92 coupe 6 speed, it wouldn't idle well, running about 4-500 rpm. As long as I kept the car going it ran well, it was just an idle problem. After the car warmed up it got better, the high idle while rolling functioned as it should. The next morning it did the same thing. The morning after that it was fine, started idled at 900 or so and idled at 1200 while the car was rolling. Hasn't had the problem again until this morning. A cold but sunny day and the car would barely run 4-500rpm until it warmed up and then it was fine. I would say that the idle up function is not working but it's idling lower than 900. No codes or lights, all gages look good.
Any ideas? vacuum leak? Injector starting to go?
Oh, I forgot, this was just after putting Seafoam in through the intake and 3/4 of a can in the full fuel tank.
Maybe spend a few bucks on a bottle of throttle body cleaner, toothbrush, and a gasket. I had some idling issues, pulled mine out and did a thorough cleaning of the IAC and TB. I went ahead and performed the steps to reset my idle and my TPS (I had my TB completly apart) and now it runs like a charm.
all FI LT1's have a throttle body! The FI delivers the fuel, the TB delivers the air!! Unless someone dropped a non-FI carburated engine in your '92. The above suggestion of cleaning you TB sounds like sound advice. You could have carbon buildup on the TB shaft which makes it stick at colder temps. I would also take a wild stab at a bad O2 sensor, but that would throw an error code. Next, I would run my tank to about 1/8 full, then load up on premium gas, see if that clears up your erratic idle.
The IAC is on the bottom side of the throttle body. I would recommend either using the old gasket if in good shape or making one from gasket paper. Use "throttle body" cleaner on both and a toothbrush or small brush.
Idle speed is a function of engine temp. Scan it to see what the ECM is receiving from the Coolant Temp Sensor. On a cold engine, the temp reading should be about the same as the outside air temp. Otherwise, spend 9 Bucks on a new sensor. Check it's resistance cold and then check the resistance of the installed sensor. Both should be close. If not, simply plug the new sensor into the harness and start it. If the idle is correct, replace the sensor. If the resistance of both sensors are close and if the idle speed is still whacked out with the new sensor plugged in, that might indicate a faulty ECM. A clue would be if the fan is running with the engine cold and the a/c off. A scan would provide greater certainity.