Recommended torque wrench
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 216
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From: Silicon Valley California
Recommended torque wrench
What is your recommendation for a good brand/model of torque wrench or price range. I'm mostly thinking of a 1/2 inch drive tool for wheel changes, suspension and brake work. I know I won't go wrong with a Snap On, but what might offer a somewhat less steep price/performance ratio? TIA
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 9
From: VA
What is your recommendation for a good brand/model of torque wrench or price range. I'm mostly thinking of a 1/2 inch drive tool for wheel changes, suspension and brake work. I know I won't go wrong with a Snap On, but what might offer a somewhat less steep price/performance ratio? TIA
A couple of years ago I picked up a couple of clicker TW from Harbor Freight and have been very happy with them. Dirt cheap, and the calibration has remained pretty accurate so far.
I also have had two Craftsman clickers for about 20 years and a beam-type, I think it's Craftsman but not sure, for about 30 years. Haven't been terribly happy with the Craftsman clickers. The beam-type is indestructable.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,188
Likes: 13
From: Wallingford Vermont
I deal with over 30 different torque wrenches at work for 1/4" to an 1". All of our wrenches are calibrated annually. Over the past ten years we've gotten away from the beam type of wrenches. Click type torrque wrenches that are handled properly (returned to 0 ftlb when in storage) hold their calibration for a long time. We don't have any digital wrenches, yet.
Personally, I hate beam type (and guage type -remember those?) wrenches for anything beyond inch-pound use. Click type, by design of not watching the reading, tend to be more accurate in actual use (unless you have another mech to watch the guage
). With my own tools SK is my personal favorate, for the money. I had a Craftsman, years ago, but it broke in use (lost all calibration).
Personally, I hate beam type (and guage type -remember those?) wrenches for anything beyond inch-pound use. Click type, by design of not watching the reading, tend to be more accurate in actual use (unless you have another mech to watch the guage
). With my own tools SK is my personal favorate, for the money. I had a Craftsman, years ago, but it broke in use (lost all calibration).
Elite Torch Red Member
Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Exit 89 GSP,Lakewood,NJ The Land Of Mojo
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Anything but Craftsman and any no name brand.
Unfortunately this is one of those times where you actually get what you pay for.
I had two no name brands that lasted less than a year.
I'm on a third Craftsman(which only carry a one year warranty), and it's broke as well.
One Craftsman I bought and it was already broke. I brought that sucker right back.
I've heard that the S-K is the best for the money, but I may invest in a nice Snap On.
Unfortunately this is one of those times where you actually get what you pay for.
I had two no name brands that lasted less than a year.
I'm on a third Craftsman(which only carry a one year warranty), and it's broke as well.
One Craftsman I bought and it was already broke. I brought that sucker right back.
I've heard that the S-K is the best for the money, but I may invest in a nice Snap On.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 112
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From: Sea Girt NEW JERSEY
For those not so machanically??? inclined...
What is beam type?
How do you calabreate a TR???
I want to take wheels off for cleaning only...
What's best for once every 6 mos. use???
Thnx....Don
What is beam type?
How do you calabreate a TR???
I want to take wheels off for cleaning only...
What's best for once every 6 mos. use???
Thnx....Don
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 13,348
Likes: 233
From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
The big downside (and I have one old beam and three newer clickers) to the beam is parallax; your eye has to be directly in front of the scale to get an accurate reading. When you are doing chassis work, or wheel work, this can sometimes be a major PITA. Beam types are also not so precise as clickers, since they rely on the user to read the scale accurately and the scales are coarse, not like a clicker which usually has 1 ft/lb increments.
You have to take a clicker to a calibration shop. It's not that expensive, but unless you live in or near a larger metro area, finding a calibration service can be problematic.
The beam type will suffice for occasional use (that's all we had for decades), but most times you use it, you'll be frowning.
Every time you use a clicker, you smile.
Larry
code5coupe
Last edited by rocco16; Jan 12, 2007 at 10:23 AM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,141
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From: Metairie Louisiana
People actually use torque wrenches for wheel changes? 
I'm also look for a good torque wrench, ft/lb's and in/lb's. I went through two no name already. Do you think it would be safe to get a Snap-On through ebay? They do come with a lifetime warranty, correct? What do yall think about the digital Snap-On's? I see theres one that can do in/lb's and ft'lb's.
Thanks
I'm also look for a good torque wrench, ft/lb's and in/lb's. I went through two no name already. Do you think it would be safe to get a Snap-On through ebay? They do come with a lifetime warranty, correct? What do yall think about the digital Snap-On's? I see theres one that can do in/lb's and ft'lb's.Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 13,348
Likes: 233
From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
Yeah. They do.
I always use a torque wrench on all the lug nuts on all my cars.
(I'm betting you do, too....)
Buying a TW through Ebay will be just as safe as buying anything else through Ebay.
Snap-On TW may have a lifetime warranty, but that will not include calibration.
My rule on buying TW's: Don't cheap-out: buy the best you can afford.
Larry
code5coupe
I always use a torque wrench on all the lug nuts on all my cars.
(I'm betting you do, too....)
Buying a TW through Ebay will be just as safe as buying anything else through Ebay.
Snap-On TW may have a lifetime warranty, but that will not include calibration.
My rule on buying TW's: Don't cheap-out: buy the best you can afford.
Larry
code5coupe
Last edited by rocco16; Jan 12, 2007 at 10:40 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,517
Likes: 19
People actually use torque wrenches for wheel changes? I'm also look for a good torque wrench, ft/lb's and in/lb's. I went through two no name already. Do you think it would be safe to get a Snap-On through ebay? They do come with a lifetime warranty, correct? What do yall think about the digital Snap-On's? I see theres one that can do in/lb's and ft'lb's.
Thanks
I'm also look for a good torque wrench, ft/lb's and in/lb's. I went through two no name already. Do you think it would be safe to get a Snap-On through ebay? They do come with a lifetime warranty, correct? What do yall think about the digital Snap-On's? I see theres one that can do in/lb's and ft'lb's.Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 13,348
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From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
Pete is right; it's worth the small time penalty.
Larry
code5coupe
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
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Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
If that doesn't enlighten him, have him pull a wheel off your C4. Put a stack of washers on each exposed stud, install the lug nuts and torque each one to 100ft/lbs (the factory spec). Put a dial indicator on the rotor, turn the hub one revolution, noting max run-out.
Now, back off the lug nuts, then re-tighten them down randomly to torques between 50 and 150ft/lbs.
Back off the lug nuts again. Re torque the nuts to 100ft/lbs each. Re-measure run-out.
It will not have increased. I.e. the rotors will not have "warped". All the lugs do is clamp the rotor hat between the wheel and the hub, they do not put axial stress on the rotor's friction surface.
Larry
code5coupe
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,799
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From: Cape Coral FL
Two words (or one hyphenated)
Snap-On
Period... end of story.
Regarding calibration.... I worked in several busy shops as a flat-rate technician and sent my Snap-On 1/2" drive torque wrench (click type) in for calibration after 5 years on the job (after lots of head gasket, engine jobs, etc.). It had NOT come out of calibration. Needless to say, all of my torque wrenches (yes, I have more than 1) are Snap-On.
You get what you pay for.
Period... end of story.
Regarding calibration.... I worked in several busy shops as a flat-rate technician and sent my Snap-On 1/2" drive torque wrench (click type) in for calibration after 5 years on the job (after lots of head gasket, engine jobs, etc.). It had NOT come out of calibration. Needless to say, all of my torque wrenches (yes, I have more than 1) are Snap-On.
You get what you pay for.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,517
Likes: 19
Have the Raybestos rep read this:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
If that doesn't enlighten him, have him pull a wheel off your C4. Put a stack of washers on each exposed stud, install the lug nuts and torque each one to 100ft/lbs (the factory spec). Put a dial indicator on the rotor, turn the hub one revolution, noting max run-out.
Now, back off the lug nuts, then re-tighten them down randomly to torques between 50 and 150ft/lbs.
Back off the lug nuts again. Re torque the nuts to 100ft/lbs each. Re-measure run-out.
It will not have increased. I.e. the rotors will not have "warped". All the lugs do is clamp the rotor hat between the wheel and the hub, they do not put axial stress on the rotor's friction surface.
Larry
code5coupe
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
If that doesn't enlighten him, have him pull a wheel off your C4. Put a stack of washers on each exposed stud, install the lug nuts and torque each one to 100ft/lbs (the factory spec). Put a dial indicator on the rotor, turn the hub one revolution, noting max run-out.
Now, back off the lug nuts, then re-tighten them down randomly to torques between 50 and 150ft/lbs.
Back off the lug nuts again. Re torque the nuts to 100ft/lbs each. Re-measure run-out.
It will not have increased. I.e. the rotors will not have "warped". All the lugs do is clamp the rotor hat between the wheel and the hub, they do not put axial stress on the rotor's friction surface.
Larry
code5coupe
I don't have the energy to type it, much less argue it with him. He is convinced. I was slightly amused when he said it. After looking at some of the super small, super thin rotors on the subcompacts, I could have imagined it "possible". Not my place to teach him. I use a torque wrench everytime. Even on the work van.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,517
Likes: 19
Snap-On
Period... end of story.
Regarding calibration.... I worked in several busy shops as a flat-rate technician and sent my Snap-On 1/2" drive torque wrench (click type) in for calibration after 5 years on the job (after lots of head gasket, engine jobs, etc.). It had NOT come out of calibration. Needless to say, all of my torque wrenches (yes, I have more than 1) are Snap-On.
You get what you pay for.
Period... end of story.
Regarding calibration.... I worked in several busy shops as a flat-rate technician and sent my Snap-On 1/2" drive torque wrench (click type) in for calibration after 5 years on the job (after lots of head gasket, engine jobs, etc.). It had NOT come out of calibration. Needless to say, all of my torque wrenches (yes, I have more than 1) are Snap-On.
You get what you pay for.
A friend of mine is a tech at the local dealership. He had his snap on torque wrench recallibrated after approx 4 years of daily use. It was within 2%. Pretty good track record.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 14,924
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From: Merritt Ils Fl
Torque wrenches are like any other hand tools, you get what you pay for. For your purposes a HF wrench,treated properly will last for years. If it ever breaks they will give you a new one,no questions asked.
CF Community Team
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,219
Likes: 2,870
From: Charlotte N.C.
As the Quality Manager for the largest US commercial calibration company and having a background in torque calibration I can agree with the "you get what you pay for" saying. That said most decent name brand wrenches, even the plastic Craftsman ones work well and hold their calibration when treated well. If you have a clicker use it in the 20% to 90% area of it's range and return it to it's minimum setting after use AND DON"T DROP IT and it'll treat you well for many years. Most torque wrenches come fairly accurate when new but I have seen many that were way off new out of the box. Even when it said precalibrated on the box.... The accuracy spec for most clickers is 4% in the clockwise direction(tightening) and 6% in the counterclockwise direction(loosening). That's 4% or 6% of the wrenches setting, set at 100ftlbs it's within 96 to 104 tightening.
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
From: Windermere, FL
Owning several torque wrenches, my favorite is my Snap On digital, TECHWRENCH.
It changes from ft. lbs. to in. lbs. to nm with the push of a button. It also beeps as well as vibrates when you reach the desired torque. For engine work it's hard to beat (mind the price tag).
It changes from ft. lbs. to in. lbs. to nm with the push of a button. It also beeps as well as vibrates when you reach the desired torque. For engine work it's hard to beat (mind the price tag).