C5 brake swap complete!
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Overwhelmed as one would be, placed in my position.... DFW, TX
St. Jude Donor '05
C5 brake swap complete!
Using jeffvette's adapters and his very good instructions, I was able to get the entire J55 system off and my new C5 brakes installed in about 3 hours. It would have only taken 2 hours had I not opted to bleed the rears as well. Honestly this was a VERY easy job.
Unfortunately, there's something dragging on the passenger side that I can't seem to locate. I suspect it's the rotor edge dragging on the pad, but it looks good on the outside. I'll have to pull the wheel off tonight and check the inside pad.
Brake feel is nearly identical as before. We'll see how the do at the track. I have the VB&P brake bias spring sitting here in case I need more rear bias. So far, it seems OK.
Unfortunately, there's something dragging on the passenger side that I can't seem to locate. I suspect it's the rotor edge dragging on the pad, but it looks good on the outside. I'll have to pull the wheel off tonight and check the inside pad.
Brake feel is nearly identical as before. We'll see how the do at the track. I have the VB&P brake bias spring sitting here in case I need more rear bias. So far, it seems OK.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 149
From: North Carolina
Using jeffvette's adapters and his very good instructions, I was able to get the entire J55 system off and my new C5 brakes installed in about 3 hours. It would have only taken 2 hours had I not opted to bleed the rears as well. Honestly this was a VERY easy job.
Unfortunately, there's something dragging on the passenger side that I can't seem to locate. I suspect it's the rotor edge dragging on the pad, but it looks good on the outside. I'll have to pull the wheel off tonight and check the inside pad.
Brake feel is nearly identical as before. We'll see how the do at the track. I have the VB&P brake bias spring sitting here in case I need more rear bias. So far, it seems OK.
Unfortunately, there's something dragging on the passenger side that I can't seem to locate. I suspect it's the rotor edge dragging on the pad, but it looks good on the outside. I'll have to pull the wheel off tonight and check the inside pad.
Brake feel is nearly identical as before. We'll see how the do at the track. I have the VB&P brake bias spring sitting here in case I need more rear bias. So far, it seems OK.
You won't notice the difference on the street, but I noticed a huge difference on the track -- not as big a difference in clamping force, but definitely much less fade. I installed the DRM bias spring at the time I upgraded so I can't give a before and after assessment. I did notice, however, that the car didn't dive as much as it did with the J55 setup.
I'd recommend this upgrade to anyone that does occassional track days, but doesn't want to spend several thousand on a Motiv or Wilwood multi-piston type setup.
Last edited by CrvtBB; Jan 15, 2007 at 01:00 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Overwhelmed as one would be, placed in my position.... DFW, TX
St. Jude Donor '05
Check the anti-rattle clip for your dragging noise. I had to trim mine slightly to keep it from dragging on the rotor - only about 1/16 from the inside of the clip. It took me a little while to figure out what it was. At first I freaked because I thought it was the wheel hitting the caliper.
You won't notice the difference on the street, but I noticed a huge difference on the track -- not as big a difference in clamping force, but definitely much less fade. I installed the DRM bias spring at the time I upgraded so I can't give a before and after assessment. I did notice, however, that the car didn't dive as much as it did with the J55 setup.
I'd recommend this upgrade to anyone that does occassional track days, but doesn't want to spend several thousand on a Motiv or Wilwood multi-piston type setup.
You won't notice the difference on the street, but I noticed a huge difference on the track -- not as big a difference in clamping force, but definitely much less fade. I installed the DRM bias spring at the time I upgraded so I can't give a before and after assessment. I did notice, however, that the car didn't dive as much as it did with the J55 setup.
I'd recommend this upgrade to anyone that does occassional track days, but doesn't want to spend several thousand on a Motiv or Wilwood multi-piston type setup.
smearig- no pictures yet. It's been rainign and icing all weekend. I'll try to get pictures later this week. My calipers were free- dontaed by a Z06 guy who was upgrading to Wilwoods. It pays to have professional mechanics as friends.
Z06 calipers can be found for about $200 on ebay:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-04...spagenameZWD1V
Add another $125 for the adapter brackets and hardware (contact jeffvette), $60-$200 for pads, and another $60 for C5 rotors (buy them at napa).
Hell, if you drive up here, I'll help you do it.
Last edited by Umrswimr; Jan 15, 2007 at 01:25 PM.
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From: Driving a hybrid in Hipsterville
Thanks man. I know how to do it, I'm just trying to decide how much to spend. I've dropped about $750 on parts in the last month alone. 
He has that stuff for sale in the parts for sale section.
He has that stuff for sale in the parts for sale section.
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From: Overwhelmed as one would be, placed in my position.... DFW, TX
St. Jude Donor '05
He has that stuff for sale in the parts for sale section.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1597417
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Overwhelmed as one would be, placed in my position.... DFW, TX
St. Jude Donor '05
I got a question about why I went to C5 brakes over the J55's and I thought I'd post my answer.
Truthfully, for 99.99% of the population, the J55 is more than enough for street, autocross, and light track duty. The rotors are 13" -same size, though different from the C5/Z06 rotors- and the calipers are nice two-piston, similar to the C5 stuff. (BTW- the difference between C5 and Z06 calipers is ONLY the color. They are IDENTICAL otherwise.)
Once you go to r-compounds on the racetrack, the C5 caliper is superior to the J55.
I went to C5 calipers because:
1) the pads are slightly cheaper
2) the C5 ROTORS are cheaper ($30 ea at Autozone)
3) The calipers are supposed to be stronger to minimize tapering and prevent fade, though I've tapered my C5 pads just fine on the track.
4) I got the C5 calipers/brackets/SS lines AND a set of PFC 01 pads for free.
My car is going to be a track/street car, so I'll be going through pads and rotors like crazy. If I can save $100 a set on rotors, it really starts to add up.
I could NOT feel a difference between the J55 and C5 brakes on way into work today. Pedal feel, stopping power, everything feels identical. It's still pretty wet, so I haven't had a chance to do any heavy ABS braking from speed, but I suspect I won't ever be able to tell much difference on the street.
Once you go to r-compounds on the racetrack, the C5 caliper is superior to the J55.
I went to C5 calipers because:
1) the pads are slightly cheaper
2) the C5 ROTORS are cheaper ($30 ea at Autozone)
3) The calipers are supposed to be stronger to minimize tapering and prevent fade, though I've tapered my C5 pads just fine on the track.
4) I got the C5 calipers/brackets/SS lines AND a set of PFC 01 pads for free.
My car is going to be a track/street car, so I'll be going through pads and rotors like crazy. If I can save $100 a set on rotors, it really starts to add up.
I could NOT feel a difference between the J55 and C5 brakes on way into work today. Pedal feel, stopping power, everything feels identical. It's still pretty wet, so I haven't had a chance to do any heavy ABS braking from speed, but I suspect I won't ever be able to tell much difference on the street.
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From: Jennings LA
Check the anti-rattle clip for your dragging noise. I had to trim mine slightly to keep it from dragging on the rotor - only about 1/16 from the inside of the clip. It took me a little while to figure out what it was. At first I freaked because I thought it was the wheel hitting the caliper.
You won't notice the difference on the street, but I noticed a huge difference on the track -- not as big a difference in clamping force, but definitely much less fade. I installed the DRM bias spring at the time I upgraded so I can't give a before and after assessment. I did notice, however, that the car didn't dive as much as it did with the J55 setup.
I'd recommend this upgrade to anyone that does occassional track days, but doesn't want to spend several thousand on a Motiv or Wilwood multi-piston type setup.
You won't notice the difference on the street, but I noticed a huge difference on the track -- not as big a difference in clamping force, but definitely much less fade. I installed the DRM bias spring at the time I upgraded so I can't give a before and after assessment. I did notice, however, that the car didn't dive as much as it did with the J55 setup.
I'd recommend this upgrade to anyone that does occassional track days, but doesn't want to spend several thousand on a Motiv or Wilwood multi-piston type setup.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Overwhelmed as one would be, placed in my position.... DFW, TX
St. Jude Donor '05
I just finished mine and have the same dragging noise. I will check that tomorrow, it's late and I don't feel like pulling the caliper back off tonight. the C5 calipers loook really good with my C6 wheels, I will take pics tomorrow. I have not tried any hard stops yet due to the unknown noise. I will report on that later.
It really was NOT a big deal- and it only happened on one side.
Jack up car.
Remove wheels.
Reinstall two lug nuts.
Remove upper caliper bolt (15mm wrench and 18mm box end wrench). Swing caliper out of the way.
Spin the rotor and inspect the area to determine the cause.
Root cause was found to be the lower pad anti-rattle clip contacting the outer edge (circumference) of the rotor.
Remove pads.
Remove offending clip.
Using a pair of pliers (or a grinder if you have one), bend the clip so it doesn't contact said rotor anymore.
Reinstall everything. Be sure to loctite the caliper bolt.
The entire process took me 30 minutes- and most of that was jacking up the car between swigs of beer.
If I was smart, I would have checked this before I bolted everything up the first time. Stupid me- everything fit perfect on the driver's side, so I didn't check the clearance on the passeneger side. Must have been the beer.
Last edited by Umrswimr; Jan 17, 2007 at 05:29 PM.
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St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: North Carolina
Ok, I pulled my wheels off last night and checked- sure enogh, it's the lower anti-rattle clip. It's a C-shaped clip that holds both pads in place in the caliper bracket. My only explination is that Jeffvette's bracket holds the C5 caliper (and bracket) a little closer to the rotor than the OEM C5 bracket does on the C5 cars.
It really was NOT a big deal- and it only happened on one side.
Jack up car.
Remove wheels.
Reinstall two lug nuts.
Remove upper caliper bolt (15mm wrench and 18mm box end wrench). Swing caliper out of the way.
Spin the rotor and inspect the area to determine the cause.
Root cause was found to be the lower pad anti-rattle clip contacting the outer edge (circumference) of the rotor.
Remove pads.
Remove offending clip.
Using a pair of pliers (or a grinder if you have one), bend the clip so it doesn't contact said rotor anymore.
Reinstall everything. Be sure to loctite the caliper bolt.
The entire process took me 30 minutes- and most of that was jacking up the car between swigs of beer.
If I was smart, I would have checked this before I bolted everything up the first time. Stupid me- everything fit perfect on the driver's side, so I didn't check the clearance on the passeneger side. Must have been the beer.
It really was NOT a big deal- and it only happened on one side.
Jack up car.
Remove wheels.
Reinstall two lug nuts.
Remove upper caliper bolt (15mm wrench and 18mm box end wrench). Swing caliper out of the way.
Spin the rotor and inspect the area to determine the cause.
Root cause was found to be the lower pad anti-rattle clip contacting the outer edge (circumference) of the rotor.
Remove pads.
Remove offending clip.
Using a pair of pliers (or a grinder if you have one), bend the clip so it doesn't contact said rotor anymore.
Reinstall everything. Be sure to loctite the caliper bolt.
The entire process took me 30 minutes- and most of that was jacking up the car between swigs of beer.
If I was smart, I would have checked this before I bolted everything up the first time. Stupid me- everything fit perfect on the driver's side, so I didn't check the clearance on the passeneger side. Must have been the beer.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,176
Likes: 7
From: Jennings LA
Ok, I pulled my wheels off last night and checked- sure enogh, it's the lower anti-rattle clip. It's a C-shaped clip that holds both pads in place in the caliper bracket. My only explination is that Jeffvette's bracket holds the C5 caliper (and bracket) a little closer to the rotor than the OEM C5 bracket does on the C5 cars.
It really was NOT a big deal- and it only happened on one side.
Jack up car.
Remove wheels.
Reinstall two lug nuts.
Remove upper caliper bolt (15mm wrench and 18mm box end wrench). Swing caliper out of the way.
Spin the rotor and inspect the area to determine the cause.
Root cause was found to be the lower pad anti-rattle clip contacting the outer edge (circumference) of the rotor.
Remove pads.
Remove offending clip.
Using a pair of pliers (or a grinder if you have one), bend the clip so it doesn't contact said rotor anymore.
Reinstall everything. Be sure to loctite the caliper bolt.
The entire process took me 30 minutes- and most of that was jacking up the car between swigs of beer.
If I was smart, I would have checked this before I bolted everything up the first time. Stupid me- everything fit perfect on the driver's side, so I didn't check the clearance on the passeneger side. Must have been the beer.
It really was NOT a big deal- and it only happened on one side.
Jack up car.
Remove wheels.
Reinstall two lug nuts.
Remove upper caliper bolt (15mm wrench and 18mm box end wrench). Swing caliper out of the way.
Spin the rotor and inspect the area to determine the cause.
Root cause was found to be the lower pad anti-rattle clip contacting the outer edge (circumference) of the rotor.
Remove pads.
Remove offending clip.
Using a pair of pliers (or a grinder if you have one), bend the clip so it doesn't contact said rotor anymore.
Reinstall everything. Be sure to loctite the caliper bolt.
The entire process took me 30 minutes- and most of that was jacking up the car between swigs of beer.
If I was smart, I would have checked this before I bolted everything up the first time. Stupid me- everything fit perfect on the driver's side, so I didn't check the clearance on the passeneger side. Must have been the beer.
mine too. it was just the passenger side. I did some grindidng on the clip and it still was rubbing so I took it out completly. the pads fit pretty tight in there anyway. how would you here the pads rattling over the interior rattles anyway
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From: Driving a hybrid in Hipsterville
I've decided to hold off on the brake upgrade for awhile and worry about getting street legal and getting some kind of paint/primer on there that isn't peeling off in flakes.
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From: Overwhelmed as one would be, placed in my position.... DFW, TX
St. Jude Donor '05
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 36,453
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From: Overwhelmed as one would be, placed in my position.... DFW, TX
St. Jude Donor '05
Well, the GD'ed grinding is back. Looks like I'm going to have to resort to more drastic measures. I'll post back up after I figure out what to do... 