Hi Folks :
I have an 87 Vette that I put new weatherstriping on last winter . I discovered that I need to make some small adjustments to the windows
to accomadate these new rubbers . However , I need a source of instruction . Any suggestions ??

 

This can easily turn into a cuss fest. I lowered the window half way and marked the current location of all three nuts, you will see these on the regulator. Loosen a bit and adjust the window in the direction you think it needs to go, caution, a little adjusting goes a long way up top. Be careful when you open and close the door so the glass does not hit the B-pillar trim. Hope this helps.

 

Boy this is the truth! I'm adjusting mine since I just upgraded the regulators and all the door hardware/weatherstripping. I'm not even going to begin with the annoyance that this... just be slow and patient. Like rspreng86 said, a little can go a LONG way. I found myself making slight adjustments to both the regulator mounts on the top of the door and the window studs in the regulator itself. You'll get it.

 

One more tip... make sure you throw your battery on the charger. I drained the hell out of my battery while adjusting both windows.

 

i know after i replaced my rubber molding that run along with windows I pushed the adjusters as far away to the outside as possible. now there seems to be play in the window (when the doors open you can move it back and forth). It is snug against the weatherstripping when closed but wonder if theres a way have the window be stationary when the doors open.

 

Reset the adjusters and also adjust the two top nuts that hold the regulator to the top of the door, this might help your problem, it helped mine.

 

When i upgraded my regulators, not only did i kill the battery, but my window got slightly scratched when it was pressing against the weather strip. There is Metal clips that hold the rubber strip in place. watch out and dont let it rub. I was so nervours i ended u dabbing a little black silicone caulk on it incase it ever rubs.

 

I have been searching for an answer to this same problem as I too just installed new weatherstripping and have found I have an airgap between the driver window and seals. This site is so awesome. The post helped a lot but I was hoping someone could point me to a more detailed set of instructions for adjusting the window as I am a bit OCD and like to do my homework first. Is it in any of the shop manuals available for this year/model (1987 Corvette Targa)? Or is it obvious to see once I take the inner door panel off? Thanks so much for your help.

Sincerely,
David

 

Is there a gap when the door is shut ?

 

Guys, I have Gordon Kill's bloomington gold on R&R for Door and window adjustments... Works like a charm... if you email me at my home email, i'll be happy to send you the pdf's
vdaddio@comcast.net

 

To everyone who has responded, thanks so much. CorvetteDan22, Yes. Door is shut completely and there is still a gap. Funny thing is, the originals did not have a gap but were dry-rotting so needed to be replaced.

Vinnies87 thanks for responding. I will take you up on that offer to email the pdf's. My email will be coming today and is madmachines@sjgcc.com

Thanks so much. This problem has been a bugger for me since all my previous years of restoration have been on hard top muscle, not corvettes. Goofiest thing I have ever seen is the weatherstripping leaks on this car! I had an easier time with the restore of my 1981 Turbo TA with t/tops than this car. But, there is still nothing like owning a Vette!!!!!

 

i'll have to do this after warm weather returns to PA and I have the cover off. thanks for the tip.

 

Vinne: You offer on the PDF file is "just in time" for me as I am replacing the doors (both) A and B piller w'stripping. Email coming and thanks a million!

 

Hi David :
I still have not found anything that I consider helpful . I would very much appreciate a step by step set of instructions complete with pictures . I have sen some literature on newer C4's but nothing on the mid 80's . I you uncover anything please send it along and I will as well .

Vernon
vjpat@nb.sympatico.ca

 

Vernon: Look at the info on the document below. I copied this procedure some years ago and placed it in the C4 Tech Section. I am not sure who is the real author of this info. I used this recently to adjust both windows on my 89 after replacing the door weatherstripping.

Adjustment Procedure for a Corvette C4 Side Window


The first step in this process is to check the alignment of the door. Roll the window down. close the door. If it closes easily, move on to the glass adjustment described below. If it doesn't, first check to see if it is sagging by closing the door as far as possible WITHOUT latching and check the alignment of the belt molding at the rear of the door and the short piece of belt molding on the body in front of the rear wheel. They should be at the same height. My door was sagging by about 3/8".

To adjust the door you will need to remove the lower rocker vent panel (the piece behind the front wheel) to gain access to the lower door hinge bolts. Then loosen the bolts connecting the hinges to the body ONLY. Then get a helper or a floor jack with a piece of wood, open the door slightly, and raise the back of the door up so the belt molding on the back of the door is just slightly higher than the one on the car body. Retighten the hinge to body bolts, remove support and re-check to see if the door belt molding and body belt molding heights are level with each other. Once you get this correct, you can move on to adjusting how the door meets at the lower sill and "A" pillar. This is done by checking to see if the door is adjusted too far in or out at the top by first referencing how the top of the door lines up with the hood. My door was in about 3/16" further than the hood. I also noticed too much contact at the top front of the door when closing. (press door closed with outside door handle held up so you can really feel what is happening) By loosening all of the hinge to door bolts only, the door can be moved and checked for premature contact against the car body. Try to get the door to close without contacting any part of the body too soon (ideally you want the door to close flat on the body so you have even pressure along the weatherstripping, which on the door goes down the front of the door and along the bottom of the door sill) then tighten the bolts. Once you are satisfied with how the door closes, its time to move on to the glass.

Roll up the window and slowly close the door. Watch the weatherstrip while doing this. The weatherstrip should compress slightly but evenly along the "a" pillar and the roof. You can further check this by closing the door on a dollar bill and pulling the bill out. You should feel a slight resistance on the bill at any point. Another check is to turn the A/C or heat blower on high, close the door, and spray soapy water along the weatherstrip to see if it bubbles, indicating an air leak.

If you need to adjust the glass, remove the door panel. Before making any adjustments, first close the door with the window up and put a strip of masking tape on the outside of the glass next to and parallel with the outer door sill weatherstrip. Next, run another strip of tape on the sill weatherstrip itself butted up to the tape on the glass. This will give you a vertical reference of where your glass was when you started. Next, draw a vertical line across both pieces of tape at 2" intervals. This will give you a horizontal reference of the same. Once you roll the window down halfway to access the bolts, loosen them, and the glass slides around, you will not know where it was when you started unless you have these references. The shop manual suggests scribing around the washers for the bolts holding the glass, but I don't think it is nearly as accurate.

Roll the window down far enough to access the three bolts holding the glass in place. Move it where you think it needs to go. Retighten and check. It will take some trial and error to get it right, but it is well worth it. There is also a way to tilt the glass in or out; by loosening one 10mm bolt near the top rear of the door if you think that might help. Perform the leak test described above. When everything seems right, reinstall the lower vented rocker panel you removed to adjust the door and it is time to test drive before putting the door panel back on.

Before you test drive, grab a big heavy towel or blanket, get in the car and close the door. Tuck the edge of the blanket into the top of the doorsill and push the rest against the doorframe. This will silence the road and wind noise you would otherwise have with the door panel off. You should be able to hear any air leaks and correct them before putting the door panel back on this way.

One more tip: If you can't seem to eliminate all of the wind noise, try taping the seams between the windshield and the roof panel and the side of the windshield where it meets the "a" pillar. You might have a leaking windshield that was not installed properly or a top that needs adjustment and mistake that for side window noise.

NOTE: Author Unknown but will not be forgotton by those who need and use this procedure!!!


Hope this is helpful!

 

Hey Sam, that FTP site is asking for a user/password... thx!

 

I know as I attempted to read the document that I just placed on web space. Somehow......someone screwed it up

I edited the original post an just placed ALL the words on the post. Sorry to do this but I have been able to place stuff on the web before and it was successful. Maybe I need help

 

Thx. I copy & pasted into a word doc & saved to my vette folder for future ref. Too late, too tired & too much to do still...

 

Trog: with the time. I am also very tired an about to look at the back of my eyelids. If anyone wants the document above as a Word document, send me your email address to samlam@charter.net and it will be on its way Good night!!!

 

Hi Sam :
Thanks for responding ! I get confused when the author refers rolling the window down half way to access the 3 bolts for adjusting . When I lower my power window I expose nothing that could be used for adjusting . Do I have to remove the metal panel from the center of the door ?

Vernon