Wet weather tires
wet. 1984 Coupe, standard alloy wheels, 8.5" X 16".
What tires in this size give the best wet adhesion and
good aquaplaning performance?
had an alignment performed and if so, what rear toe setting was
specified?
On the C4, rear toe changes in the direction of toe-out as the rear
rises (as when weight transfers under braking). If there is insufficient
static toe-IN, then the rear toe can change to toe-OUT as the
rear lifts causing the car to try to rear-steer if travelling in anything
other than a straight line. Since NZ law requires roads to be twisty,
this toe-out rear-steer issue can become a handful.
Incidently, which part of which island do you spend most of your time?
There are some wonderful (and wonderfully unforgiving) stretches of
road in your country. Perhaps the old path up the hill to the ski area
outside of Wanaka being one of the more memorable ones?
.
Pennsylvania just after I got the car there. It had
just rained and there were wet leaves all over. But it
happened even quicker than it would have when I had
a 356 Porsche. Don't know the suspension settings,
just having taken ownership. Sticks real well in the
dry.
The car is now on display in an upmarket classic car
museum in Nelson, NZ until April as part of a 'Muscle
Car Exhibit". But I take it for a run once a month.
Mostly drive around the S Island for the past 12 years
here. Glad you know the conditions.
on one of your senior countrymen and his extensive collection of
unusual classics. I do not recall the location but I wonder whether
your car is displayed at the same exhibit?
If memory serves, there is an impressive cathedral in Nelson - situated
at the top of a long, broad roadway that provides a great view on approach.
Rain and wet leaves suggests it is less likely that much weight
transfer (toe change) could occur before losing traction. But the
description of the quicker-than-Porsche-like snap oversteer seems
characteristic of toe-out at the rear.
For stock (23 yr old) suspension parts and aged tires used on
narrow roads with little shoulder, sharp drops, blind turns in a
changeable climate, a conservative approach might be to dial in
at least the OEM toe-in value.
I had good results with the Goodyear GS-C. The GS-D3 is the
follow-up. However, for track performance and value, I chose
to go with Kumho.
.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
checked/adjusted. Nelson does have the cathedral.
The large car museum is in Paraparaumu in the N.
Island north of Wellington, and well worth a visit for
some amazing cars. The Nelson WOW Museum is also
worthwhile but with far fewer cars but really top of
the line of each model. An honor to have mine there,
especially since they don't know me from a bar of soap.










A word if I may about what to look for if wet performance is important to you. The water has to be removed from under the tread blocks. The most effective way is to send the water to the side wall so it exits from under the tread out the side of the tire. That method does not throw the water backwards in front of the following tire. If you look at rain racing tires you will notice that as much as possible the tread patterns are all designed with this in mind. Also that direction of removal is like a boat hull's bow parting the sea....pointy end first right?
Look for a tread pattern that has side drainage. You would like to see sweeping grooves from the center to the shoulder, straight lines are less effective. You don't want an inter-locking pattern as that interupts the water flow with direction changes. Most passenger car tires are not designed that way because they become LOUD in the dry due to air movement. The narrower the tread blocks and the bigger the sweeping grooves the better the water pumping action but the louder the tire on dry road. Also the worse it will handle in the dry due to heat & tread squirm. But that part is not really important unless you track or autoX. The D3's are LOUDER on cement & just LOUD on asphalt, oh and they're expensive but I feel they work on my Z, 275's front & 315's rear, and no "vague" feeling in reasonable puddles at speed or on sheet water on a road, also excellant brake "feel" in those conditions. They remind me of the VR/CN36's of the 70's....they were a copy of the rain racing tire used in the WRO.
Sorry to run on about this but most tire sales people don't know squat about wet vs dry tires so ya can't ask them!
Tom
Old tires, even with good tread depth, can become disasters with regard to traction, both wet and dry, but especially wet... The rubber on the tires age and harden and even tho they look good they don't perform...
If the tires are more than 4-5 years old, new tires should fix the problem......
I have personally had good experience with BFG KDWS and Goodyear GS-D3..
my first 94 has Sumitomos,,,, the second 94 had the F1's
The Sumi car would break the tires loose hitting 3rd gear
the second would barely scratch second, and hooked in the rain under fairly heavy accel
If you go to the Tire Rack website, you can do a search on your 255/50-16 tire size to find suitable tires in the proper size. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Compar...t=All&x=77&y=8
Unfortunately the suggestions like the Goodyear G3-F1 and GS-D3 are great ones but they are not available in the factory size for your 84. There is a GS-D3 in 245/50-16 but it's pretty narrow for your wheel width width and the tire is a full inch narrower in tread width.
I would look at the Yokohama AVID V4s or the BF Goodrich g-Force Sport tires. Based on the reviews, they appear to have decent grip in wet/dry compared to the Dunlop or Sumitomo tires.
As mentioned, tires over 5 or 6 years old tend to lose the compounds in the tire and the tread gets hard. This results in a loss of performance of the tire.
Of course, there is overlap. A top of the line all-season will outperform a bottom feeder summer tire in all conditions.
check out this article:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...e.jsp?techid=3













