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Can anyone tell me what a good deal would be to replace the valve seals? One gut told me he would do it for $300. How difficult of a job is it? Can a novice get into trouble doing it without any previous experience??? Thanks for the advice. Dave
I think you are looking at 6 hours labor, $30.00 for the seal kit and $45.00 for the real good gaskets.
6 Hours@$60.00=$360.00
Parts $75.00
I think that makes $435.00
If this person knows what they are doing, go for it!
It's not any fun to do this job!
I just started the job myself...and found that my springs were so weak, I only did one side, in order to get the new springs before doing the other side.
In short, go to Summit and buy the replacement springs for $42, and give them to the mechanic before he starts.
Also, make sure he puts seals on BOTH intake AND exhaust valve guides. The reason is that because by the time the seals start to become a problem, all the valves will have a large amount of clearance ( along with the springs being worn out ).
If you're the one removing the heads, I'd look at new. $459 for a stock L98 head (complete) was the last quote I got from a Dealer, and if you have any mileage on your Vette, you probably need a lot more than seals.
You have to remove the locks before you can remove the retainers. Don't forget that you need compressed air to keep the valves from falling into the cylinder. It's at least a 5-6 hr job. $300 seems kind of high though. Shop around a little more.
If you don't have a compressor/spark plug hose fitting, simply stuff some rope into the cylinders with the piston down, then rotate the crank to push the piston and rope up to the valves, this holds them in place.
actually, you don't even need the rope, as long as you have the piston at TDC- combustion chamber is so small, the valve only drops about 1/8 inch- easy to pull up by hand
I watched the pushords and inserted a screwdriver into the spark plug hole as a stop. You can see the handle move as the piston touches it. Then back off a little and feed the rope into the spark plug hole.
There's a little extra work involved here. Like loosening/removing the AC compressor and the alternator bracket, the EGR tube, the brake booster vac line, some AIR fittings, the injector harnesses, etc. just to get the valve covers off. Then too don't foreget the valve adjustment procedure after the springs & seals are installed. To do it at home plan on a weekend if you have all the parts (which never happens the first time).
Definitely do springs along with upper and lower oil seals. If you have oil shedders on top of the valve springs, toss em and shim the springs. If you realy want to increase the float limit change to Ti retainers too.
Meanwhile, I wouldn't touch the job for $300 if you supplied parts, tools and the beer. If he's good, find out what's included in the job and go for it.
BBA, maybe I should have clarified this further for you. You're right you don't need compressed air as there are obviously other ways of keeping the valves up, but it is the easiest and quickest way to get the job done.