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Windows Aren't Doing So Hot

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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 11:40 PM
  #1  
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From: Weston Fl
Default Windows Aren't Doing So Hot

Has anyone had anyone replace all of the innards of the windows? I want to know about how much that'll run me and if this has to be done at a specialty shop or not. I don't have time to do the work myself and I don't have the expertise to align the glass when all is said and done.

My driver's-side rattles like a snake if 1/2-way down and neither one of them want to roll up into the weatherstrip anymore. I've stopped rolling down the passenger-side window because I have to open the door, finish rolling it up and then close the door if I want my car to stay HALF-WAY dry.

I'm going to pay a guy to replace my A & B-Pillar weatherstripping. I did it myself about a year ago and I guess I didn't do as well as I thought.. I even have water leaking in through the visors, now >_<

Next weekend, I'm buying a new top and that will resolve most of the upper-window leakage problems (That's not the only reason why I'm replacing it).

Well this has turned into a rather large post about one question =)

Thanks in advance for any and all help!

~Derek
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 11:51 PM
  #2  
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From: SE NY
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Why do you think all the innards need to be replaced w/o inspecting the door innards?? That sounds like desparation and is not likely needed.

It's a rather simple task to replace the two anti-rattle felt pads that press against the inside top of the door glass.

If you have an earlier C4 I understand there is some sort of "ribbon" that may need replacing too.

I don't think the job requires a specialty shop; a good mechanic should be able to get it done well. You might talk with your local reliable glass shop to see if they can handle it.
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 65Z01
Why do you think all the innards need to be replaced w/o inspecting the door innards?? That sounds like desparation and is not likely needed.

It's a rather simple task to replace the two anti-rattle felt pads that press against the inside top of the door glass.

If you have an earlier C4 I understand there is some sort of "ribbon" that may need replacing too.

I don't think the job requires a specialty shop; a good mechanic should be able to get it done well. You might talk with your local reliable glass shop to see if they can handle it.
Well, I guess I'm more of "Prepare for the worst", ya know? I've tried adjusting the bumpers in there and nothing works. It's just not solid anymore. If I roll the window down half way, I can lift up on it with my bare hands.

I also need to replace the glass soon, because it's all fogged/scuffed up and nothing seems to work to revive it. I guess I'm just at the point to where I'm ready to throw money at it, because it's easier.

~Derek
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 12:05 AM
  #4  
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Default windows

I have repaired both of my side windows.
There is a plastic ribbon gear that slides in a track on a frame that holds the motor.
The track is plastic, and is flexible, it gets brittle, and breaks.
The grease drys out, and all of the friction points drag, slowing down the window.
The felt pads are at the top of the door, and hold presure against the window so it doesn't rattle, and they are completely adjustable.
The biggest headache is the door panel that doesn't like to be disturbed. I have had mine off about 4 times, and it never sits the same each time.
when you pull off the panel, the door lock **** that slides forward and back pops off the arm, and it has to be pushed over the little channel it rides in.
Then you unplug the wiper switch, the door lock switch, and the light.
then the hatch switch.
look at all the bolts you can find, and make pencil marks so you know where they go in the adjustment slots.
Then you have 4 or 5 bolts that hold the window track in, and 2 that bolt through the window.
Then you pull the window loose, and angle the window track out.
There are 2 rivets at the end of the track frame that have to be drilled out, and you replace the rivets with screws and lock nuts.
then there's a screw that is at the head of the track, that comes out, and you slide out the old track.
grease the track and all the chafe points, and reassemble.
don't forget to order the tracks before you even begin to think about taking it apart.
driving it without the panel is noisy, hard to get out of the car, and hard to lock.
When you put the pane back on, cut up a wire clothes hanger to make a hook to help you pull the door lock rod up into the channel. it should look like a stick with a u at the end, and be about 6 inches long.
By the way, go to Barnes and noble bookstore, and buy a book called 101 projects for your corvette. you will like all the extra information.
Chris

Last edited by coupeguy2001; Feb 3, 2007 at 12:11 AM.
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 12:09 AM
  #5  
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Fork501
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From: Weston Fl
Default

Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
I have repaired both of my side windows.
There is a plastic ribbon gear that slides in a track on a frame that holds the motor.
The track is plastic, and is flexible, it gets brittle, and breaks.
The grease drys out, and all of the friction points drag, slowing down the window.
The felt pads are at the top of the door, and hold presure against the window so it doesn't rattle, and they are completely adjustable.
The biggest headache is the door panel that doesn't like to be disturbed. I have had mine off about 4 times, and it never sits the same each time.
when you pull off the panel, the door lock **** that slides forward and back pops off the arm, and it has to be pushed over the little channel it rides in.
Then you unplug the wiper switch, the door lock switch, and the light.
then the hatch switch.
look at all the bolts you can find, and make pencil marks so you know where they go in the adjustment slots.
Then you have 4 or 5 bolts that hold the window track in, and 2 that bolt through the window.
Then you pull the window loose, and angle the window track out.
There are 2 rivets at the end of the track frame that have to be drilled out, and you replace the rivets with screws and lock nuts.
then there's a screw that is at the head of the track, that comes out, and you slide out the old track.
grease the track and all the chafe points, and reassemble.
don't forget to order the tracks before you even begin to think about taking it apart.
driving it without the panel is noisy, hard to get out of the car, and hard to lock.
When you put the pane back on, cut up a wire clothes hanger to make a hook to help you pull the door lock rod up into the channel. it should look like a stick with a u at the end, and be about 6 inches long.
Chris
Thanks =) But actually, I think that this was the earlier C4s. '88 (I believe) is when they switched to more of a lever system to do the windows up and down. I haven't been in the door for a few months, but I don't think I have the ribbon. I'll take a look at everything, which should be lubbed up and make sure that's all good =) Thanks for the time, I'll definitely use whatever I can from this, before I throw countless amounts of money at it!

~Derek
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 10:27 AM
  #6  
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coupeguy2001
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Posts: 6,050
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From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
Default window

I would use the older system, it is easier to repair, and when it breaks, you don't have to throw it away, just fix it.
and by the way, you didn't say what year.
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 10:58 AM
  #7  
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Fork501
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From: Weston Fl
Default

Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
I would use the older system, it is easier to repair, and when it breaks, you don't have to throw it away, just fix it.
and by the way, you didn't say what year.
I'm sorry about that. I had 2 posts up last night on two different topics. I have an '88 coupe. I realized this morning that I never put that on there.

~Derek
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