Radiator cleaning advise for cooler engine
How often do you clean your radiator? And I mean really clean it, take it away from the car and do a thorough job?
Is there a way to clean it without taking it out of the car?
And how do you actually clean it? Do you use a hose to remove the debris or soak the radiator in some sort of magic detergent?
Please advise. As always every idea is welcome!
I once tried it in a radiator an made a little damage, fortunately I saw it on time and stopped.
This only cleaned the surface debris and made it look good, without addressing the real problem.
In fact, even with the radiator out, it is difficult to remove the source of the problem -- sand like particles that collect "inside" the finned area.
I could clean for days and still get sand out of the radiator.
After I cleaned it, it made very little difference in the temperature, but it looked good. Internally, it was like new. Externally, I could have attempted to take the sand out for weeks without getting it all. I tried pressure washing it from behind (large nozzle without extreme pressure), etc.
Finally, I put in a brand new GM radiator and my temps dropped on an average of 15 -20 degrees on a hot Florida day.
I now don't follow traffiic too closely, because the Corvette Vacuum Cleaner radiator filters out all the particles in the air stirred up by the vehicles in front.
I now think of the radiator as a replaceable vacuum cleaner filter bag.
Tom Piper
Last edited by Tom Piper; Feb 17, 2007 at 03:27 PM.
This only cleaned the surface debris and made it look good, without addressing the real problem.
In fact, even with the radiator out, it is difficult to remove the source of the problem -- sand like particles that collect "inside" the finned area.
I could clean for days and still get sand out of the radiator.
After I cleaned it, it made very little difference in the temperature, but it looked good. Internally, it was like new. Externally, I could have attempted to take the sand out for weeks without getting it all. I tried pressure washing it from behind (large nozzle without extreme pressure), etc.
Finally, I put in a brand new GM radiator and my temps dropped on an average of 15 -20 degrees on a hot Florida day.
I now don't follow traffiic too closely, because the Corvette Vacuum Cleaner radiator filters out all the particles in the air stirred up by the vehicles in front.
I now think of the radiator as a replaceable vacuum cleaner filter bag.
Tom Piper
But, I have used compressed air from behind to blow it out and a lot of debris did come out of it.
I'm planning to change my '92 over to *ALL* R-134a components, including the condenser, etc.
When I do that, I will have a clean condenser too.
Tom Piper

At least 25 percent of the radiator is plugged. With the rad in the car and the fans in place, the only way to effectively clean the rad is to remove it. It isn't really that hard. I will clean this one later but am installing a DeWitt rad in its place. I used my air compressor to blow out the A/C condensor after removing the rad. This was the only way I see to really clean the rad properly.
Bernie
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Are there any 'parallel flow' replacement condensors for our Vettes that you know of?

Haven't noticed any issues with cooling since, so I can't understand why they put the gap in there.
I inadvertantly blocked that gap when I was installing a Bigmouth air dam (which isn't worth a crap) and my temps went up. I don't understand why since it seems that you would want air to flow thru both. But I modified the air dam to allow for that gap to be there and my temps went back down. Now, from the pic I posted above that could have been my problem which I have just resolved by Installing a DeWitt aluminum rad.
Bernie
This only cleaned the surface debris and made it look good, without addressing the real problem.
In fact, even with the radiator out, it is difficult to remove the source of the problem -- sand like particles that collect "inside" the finned area.
I could clean for days and still get sand out of the radiator.
After I cleaned it, it made very little difference in the temperature, but it looked good. Internally, it was like new. Externally, I could have attempted to take the sand out for weeks without getting it all. I tried pressure washing it from behind (large nozzle without extreme pressure), etc.
Finally, I put in a brand new GM radiator and my temps dropped on an average of 15 -20 degrees on a hot Florida day.
I now don't follow traffiic too closely, because the Corvette Vacuum Cleaner radiator filters out all the particles in the air stirred up by the vehicles in front.
I now think of the radiator as a replaceable vacuum cleaner filter bag.
Tom Piper
I took mine out of the car. I cleaned it just as Tom did. However, I got most all the sand particals out of the core. I straightened every fin, using dental pics, and some of my tiny electronics tools. This took me two weeks. you can "lightly" tap the radiator on a hard surface, and get a whole sand pile. The reason I spent all this time to clean it up, is because it is the heavy duty radiator, and money was non existent. Next time however, I will look at it just the way Tom has described. And yes, the A/C condenser needs the same treatment. Only I could not remove it. That is where alot of hours work came in. I bought a big mouth air dam BMAD. I havent installed it yet, but I know the company makes a screen that goes in front. I have also seen debri screens in some of the vette suppliers catologs. I may try this, I'm not 100% sure yet...
By the way. It is installed, but not yet tested. I'm crossing my fingers...
Last edited by Steel Breeze; Feb 18, 2007 at 06:40 PM.
The '92 has an R-12 condensor and the '94 has a R-134a condensor, they both will fit under the same radiator shroud.
I am under the impression that all late C4 condensors are parallel flow.
I think that's the reason they recommend replacing it when a compressor locks up (or black-death) instead of trying to clean it with liquid cleaner.
Tom Piper

At least 25 percent of the radiator is plugged. With the rad in the car and the fans in place, the only way to effectively clean the rad is to remove it. It isn't really that hard. I will clean this one later but am installing a DeWitt rad in its place. I used my air compressor to blow out the A/C condensor after removing the rad. This was the only way I see to really clean the rad properly.
Bernie
I'm not overheating but this seems important. I was going to vacuum. I thought maybe some light cleaner on the condenser and a very light rinse?
Thanks
(3 on each side of the shroud). You need a 7MM ratcheting wrench and 7MM socket to get them and they are a pain. Drain the rad, remove the hoses from the rad, remove the bolts from the shroud including the ones that hold the fan shroud on. You have to remove the air cleaner and cold air duct to the engine. Lift the shroud from the radiator, you will probably need to angle it sideways to clear the right side of the rad. The rad should lift out and you can clean it very nicely. The A/C condensor doesn't get as clogged but you should at least blow it out with air. I hope this helps.
Bernie
(3 on each side of the shroud). You need a 7MM ratcheting wrench and 7MM socket to get them and they are a pain. Drain the rad, remove the hoses from the rad, remove the bolts from the shroud including the ones that hold the fan shroud on. You have to remove the air cleaner and cold air duct to the engine. Lift the shroud from the radiator, you will probably need to angle it sideways to clear the right side of the rad. The rad should lift out and you can clean it very nicely. The A/C condensor doesn't get as clogged but you should at least blow it out with air. I hope this helps.
Bernie
Is there a way of inspecting the rad without removing the shroud to see how bad/good it is?
I am under the impression that all late C4 condensors are parallel flow.
I think that's the reason they recommend replacing it when a compressor locks up (or black-death) instead of trying to clean it with liquid cleaner.
I don't think the 'parallel flow' condensors were 'invented' until the advent of R-134.
I wonder if the later ones intended for '134 ARE parallel flow and the earlier ones are not.
Any of them that you can see the round lines runing from side to side are not parallel flow.
The reason I mention this is because R-134 will not cool as well as R-12 in a system designed for R-12.
The gasses are close but not close enough when it really counts (when
it's 105* in the shade, LOL)
I'm in the same boat with a lot of folks. Got a couple of Vettes that still have R-12 in them. Need a 'plan' for when they have to be converted to 134.
Last edited by VetNutJim; Feb 20, 2007 at 05:31 PM.













