" high performance water pump"
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,522
Likes: 0
I would have gone electric right away. If they would have had such a kit. When it's 110* outside, and the city road surface is 160*. I wouldn't mind flowing 55 gallons of coolant at idle waiting at a never ending stop light. Your stocker, or your aftermarket high volume unit, isn't anywhere near that, at idle. I guess it depends alot on where you drive, and where you live... my two cents... 
P.S. Those that think an electric water pump doesn't cause parasitic drag have been out in the sun too long! Power for the electric motor on the water pump comes from the alternator and your engine has to pay for the inefficiency of BOTH the alternator AND the electric motor!!!
Yes, at idle an electric water pump should be less efficient than a mechanical, but as the rpm's increase, the electrical becomes more efficient, that's why the show an increase in RWHP. They are more running more efficiently and freeing up power to go to the wheels.
An electric water pump is designed to turn at X rate, and the electric motor is designed to be most efficient for that one task. A mechanical water pump has to be able to move sufficient water from idle all the way to redline, so as the rpm increase its going to turn faster, and that isn't always the most efficient thing.
If you look at the diesel electric locomotives, they are similar to our situation with the electric water pump. The diesel motor runs at X rpm, and is built to run at that one rpm and that one rpm only. They can easily design it to be more efficient, because it just has to do one task, instead of having to be able to idle and go all the way to red line. The electric motor on the locomotive runs directly off the generator. Those locomotives are very very efficient because of this.
Just because you add more steps in the process, doesn't mean the overall system has to be less efficient.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 5
From: The Pines South Jersey
The electric pump install on a L98 isnt that bad, you just have to play with the belt configuration.
The biggest deterrent is the lack of the heater hose provision, if you plan on retaining the heater
The biggest deterrent is the lack of the heater hose provision, if you plan on retaining the heater
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 4,931
Likes: 3
From: Fort Lauderdale FL
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 2
From: Richfield Utah
The stock water pump will flow more than enough coolant to keep the engine supplied. The coolant temperatures are controlled by the thermostat, the fans, and the ability of the radiator to exchange the heat in the coolant as it passes through the tubes. The amount of air that flows through the radiator also determines how good of a job it does.
The C4 is a "bottom breather" in that cooling air enters the radiator from under the front of the car and passes through the cooling fins. If the radiator has dirt and debris in it (between the tubes or junk sitting in front of the fins) the radiator will not do a good job of cooling. If the tubes are clogged from poor maintenance, that makes cooling that much more difficult to accomplish.
Over years of use, the cooling tubes in the radiator become very thin due to the friction of the coolant flowing through them. Once the metal tubes get too thin, they lose their ability to effectively transfer heat. By the same token, if the fins have been bent from years of debris hitting them (even though they are behind the A/C condensor) air cannot easily pass around and thru the tubes.
No amount of cooling system pressure or the amount of coolant moved by a high-flow or super gee-whiz performance water pump is going to increase the ability of a worn out or clogged radiator to keep coolant temps down.
The trick to effective C4 cooling is to have a radiator that has no dirt or debris around the tubes and fins, a good thermostat that open properly and does not otherwise restrict coolant flow, a pressure cap of the correct rating, and good coolant in the proper ratio.
You can turn the fans on earlier, use a lower temp thermostat, add Water Wetter or other products, but if the rest of the system is not in good shape so that the pieces can do their job, you will only put off trouble for awhile.
The C4 is a "bottom breather" in that cooling air enters the radiator from under the front of the car and passes through the cooling fins. If the radiator has dirt and debris in it (between the tubes or junk sitting in front of the fins) the radiator will not do a good job of cooling. If the tubes are clogged from poor maintenance, that makes cooling that much more difficult to accomplish.
Over years of use, the cooling tubes in the radiator become very thin due to the friction of the coolant flowing through them. Once the metal tubes get too thin, they lose their ability to effectively transfer heat. By the same token, if the fins have been bent from years of debris hitting them (even though they are behind the A/C condensor) air cannot easily pass around and thru the tubes.
No amount of cooling system pressure or the amount of coolant moved by a high-flow or super gee-whiz performance water pump is going to increase the ability of a worn out or clogged radiator to keep coolant temps down.
The trick to effective C4 cooling is to have a radiator that has no dirt or debris around the tubes and fins, a good thermostat that open properly and does not otherwise restrict coolant flow, a pressure cap of the correct rating, and good coolant in the proper ratio.
You can turn the fans on earlier, use a lower temp thermostat, add Water Wetter or other products, but if the rest of the system is not in good shape so that the pieces can do their job, you will only put off trouble for awhile.
I'm just one of those guys that would like both... 
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 65
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Yeah he allready has one mate, and as i say i think the A/C compressor is gone too. AIR pump should be gone if its not allready, we dont need that in Australia.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
It will use more power than the standard pump at idle, but in return it will give you increased cooling at idle.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 469
Likes: 1
how are ya!
yep i have a 3 piece under drive pulley kit,a/c is removed,pollution pump removed,e.g.r gone too!
from what iv read some of these aftermarket water pumps can help a little as thet have higer speed integeral roller bearings,better propeller design as well for flow and reduced drag also!!
not as good as electic set up but most likely better than stock standard one though!
thanks
cheers
glen
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Charleston SC
hi casey and guys,
how are ya!
yep i have a 3 piece under drive pulley kit,a/c is removed,pollution pump removed,e.g.r gone too!
from what iv read some of these aftermarket water pumps can help a little as thet have higer speed integeral roller bearings,better propeller design as well for flow and reduced drag also!!
not as good as electic set up but most likely better than stock standard one though!
thanks
cheers
glen
how are ya!
yep i have a 3 piece under drive pulley kit,a/c is removed,pollution pump removed,e.g.r gone too!
from what iv read some of these aftermarket water pumps can help a little as thet have higer speed integeral roller bearings,better propeller design as well for flow and reduced drag also!!
not as good as electic set up but most likely better than stock standard one though!
thanks
cheers
glen
John
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 65
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Its never going to make it run any cooler than the thermostat will allow. The electric pump may keep it a more consistant temp, but it wont make it get cooler then its allowed to.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Charleston SC
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
"they mention them under short vs long,what does this mean?"
The L98 Vette pump is near enough in lenght to a std long pump BUT for Vette's only it is reverse rotation.
What ever brand you buy , make sure it is for a Vette.
If you were doing away with the serp belt drive altogether and using V belts, a std long pump would work
The L98 Vette pump is near enough in lenght to a std long pump BUT for Vette's only it is reverse rotation.
What ever brand you buy , make sure it is for a Vette.
If you were doing away with the serp belt drive altogether and using V belts, a std long pump would work
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
The Meziere electric water pump has an idler pulley on it so you can still use your original serp belt on the L98. It seems to be a very reliable pump and a stock one flows 40 GPM. I like the fact that on my 92 if the electric pump fails it doesn't leak on the optispark.
Bernie
Bernie
