C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

LT1 - Broken Header Studs

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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 05:46 PM
  #1  
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Default LT1 - Broken Header Studs

In order to swap out the starter and O2 sensors, I tried to remove the exhaust system to gain more clearance. In putting the collector bolts back on the header, I snapped off a stud at the header/collector area.

Can I use an air chisel with a pointed tip to knock the broken stud out of the stock exhaust manifold, and use a bolt and nut? Do new studs screw in? Please help!

EDIT: Sorry! My car's a stock header '95 LT-1 6-speed.

Last edited by zeitgeist57; Feb 25, 2007 at 05:53 PM.
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by zeitgeist57
Can I use an air chisel with a pointed tip to knock the
broken stud out of the stock exhaust manifold
No

Originally Posted by zeitgeist57
Do new studs screw in?
Yes

Ideally, the broken portion will be removed in a way that minimizes
damage to the existing threads. This permits you to install a new
stud and move on.

Is a portion of the stud protruding above the flange or is it broken
off flush/below the flange surface?

Can you position a drill on the stud so that the bit is on the same
axis?

.
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Slalom4me

Is a portion of the stud protruding above the flange or is it broken
off flush/below the flange surface?
Can you position a drill on the stud so that the bit is on the same
axis?

[/QUOTE]

Yes to Question #1, and maybe to question 2. I should be able to provided that my drill won't come in contact with the frame or exhaust downpipe.
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 06:50 PM
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If there is enough material, it may be possible to weld a nut to
the remaining portion of the stud and then turn this out of the
threaded hole.

Alternatively, try to file a flat on the broken end so that a center-punch
can be used. Use a drill that will turn in reverse together with a
reverse-flute drill bit that is smaller than the stud. The counter-clockwise
cutting action may be enough by itself to turn out the broken stud.

Have an assistant watch to help keep the drill aligned with the stud
axis so that the threads are not damaged.

If necessary, use an Easy-Out tool to try to turn out the remaining
shell of the stud.

.
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 06:55 PM
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Reverse-flute - aka - 'Left Hand Drill Bit'

Here is a generic link to LHDB's

Ed Heiser had a problem last year and a lot of information about
removing broken fasteners appears in his thread

- Broke off two torx bolts, now what

REDC4CORVETTE brought the Left Hand Drill Bits to my attention there.

.

Last edited by Slalom4me; Feb 25, 2007 at 07:01 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 01:34 AM
  #6  
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If you snapped it on the way in (i.e. you were able to get it out fine) then that may make your life a little easier seeing that the stud isn't frozen in there. Use plenty of PB Blaster and an easy out. Left handed drill bit may do the trick too.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 06:59 AM
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i did this when working on a HDD for my comp...

get the best glue/resin you can and glue the other piec to the one in the hole
give the glue some time to set and give it a go

if this dont work..... drill the mo'****er out
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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 11:48 AM
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zeitgeist57

Any success?

.
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 07:39 AM
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Slalom...your PM box is full.

FYI...a portion of the stud is protruding above the flange, but the break is such that I would need to remove the collector and downpipe in order to access it...it does not protrude through and below the mounting flange at the downpipe.

I have not had a chance to fix it yet...going to work with a nasty exhaust leak sounds (and smells) terrible!

Last edited by zeitgeist57; Mar 1, 2007 at 07:40 AM. Reason: addt
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 04:45 PM
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I tightened down the two other studs with an impact gun and there's no exhaust leak now. Whew!

I'm going to hold out for a new set of headers.
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