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In order to swap out the starter and O2 sensors, I tried to remove the exhaust system to gain more clearance. In putting the collector bolts back on the header, I snapped off a stud at the header/collector area.
Can I use an air chisel with a pointed tip to knock the broken stud out of the stock exhaust manifold, and use a bolt and nut? Do new studs screw in? Please help!
EDIT: Sorry! My car's a stock header '95 LT-1 6-speed.
Last edited by zeitgeist57; Feb 25, 2007 at 05:53 PM.
Can I use an air chisel with a pointed tip to knock the
broken stud out of the stock exhaust manifold
No
Originally Posted by zeitgeist57
Do new studs screw in?
Yes
Ideally, the broken portion will be removed in a way that minimizes
damage to the existing threads. This permits you to install a new
stud and move on.
Is a portion of the stud protruding above the flange or is it broken
off flush/below the flange surface?
Can you position a drill on the stud so that the bit is on the same
axis?
If there is enough material, it may be possible to weld a nut to
the remaining portion of the stud and then turn this out of the
threaded hole.
Alternatively, try to file a flat on the broken end so that a center-punch
can be used. Use a drill that will turn in reverse together with a
reverse-flute drill bit that is smaller than the stud. The counter-clockwise
cutting action may be enough by itself to turn out the broken stud.
Have an assistant watch to help keep the drill aligned with the stud
axis so that the threads are not damaged.
If necessary, use an Easy-Out tool to try to turn out the remaining
shell of the stud.
If you snapped it on the way in (i.e. you were able to get it out fine) then that may make your life a little easier seeing that the stud isn't frozen in there. Use plenty of PB Blaster and an easy out. Left handed drill bit may do the trick too.
FYI...a portion of the stud is protruding above the flange, but the break is such that I would need to remove the collector and downpipe in order to access it...it does not protrude through and below the mounting flange at the downpipe.
I have not had a chance to fix it yet...going to work with a nasty exhaust leak sounds (and smells) terrible!
Last edited by zeitgeist57; Mar 1, 2007 at 07:40 AM.
Reason: addt