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After years of not practicing what I preach, I am going to order up my torque converter. I have been using a reworked 12 inch factory unit with pretty good success, but really need a quality piece.
Approx every 3 seasons I balloon my stocker. It cannot handle the nitrous very well. Gonna raise the stall a bit and lose approx 13 pounds off the back of the crank
It will be from my local shop. The aftermarket billet back and front covers are pretty standard, and their quality is as good as any big name(if not better). They also deliver regarding time. If I hurt it at the strip on sunday, drop it off for repair on monday, I will have it back wednesday.
I can't wait to lose 12 pounds off the back of the crank
It will be from my local shop. The aftermarket billet back and front covers are pretty standard, and their quality is as good as any big name(if not better). They also deliver regarding time. If I hurt it at the strip on sunday, drop it off for repair on monday, I will have it back wednesday.
I can't wait to lose 12 pounds off the back of the crank
Is that 12 pounds lighter than the stock converter or 12 pounds lighter than the already lighter reworked converter you are currently using? I thought someone recently said their 10 converter was about 18 lbs lighter than the stock converter. I'm still getting ready to get ready to get a better converter. Soon!!
The converter I have now is reworked, but the same weight as stock. 42 pounds is the dry weight. Filled with fluid it is closer to 50 pounds. The dry weight of a 9 1/2 inch converter hovers around 30 pounds.
Most guys remove and weigh the full converter. I think that is where the 18 pound difference comes in. Non lock up versions weigh well under 30 pounds. I plan to keep the lock up. Now that gas is climbing higher, I would not give up the lock up feature.
I decided a new trans should go along with the new converter. I am going to put some unproven (to me) aftermarket parts in it to see how they work out. I will run it this year, street and strip then tear it down next year for inspection. 3-4 clutch packs are easily hurt in these cars. I am going to focus on that area especially.
I think you are right about the weight.
When I recently pulled mine, it weighed 50 lbs with fluild in it and the new PI Torque convertor weighed 31 lbs dry.
Well,
I ordered it up this morning. I told them to build me the best they could and money was not an object.
They promised me the best and at a price too cheap to mention.
Because it is for my own personal car, and I bring them alot of business, they want to take care of me
I do appreciate it, and cannot wait to install it once the nice weather comes along.
Try the z pack I like mine,I can finally feel the 2-3 and 3-4 shift.
I use the 9 inch converter 3800 stall without the lock up.It loves lots of fuel.
I was going to use a z-pack in JD_v3tt3s trans, but did not want to make his the test trans. I will definately install it in my own. After speaking with many people I respect, I think the z-pack could be the answer to alot od 700r4 durability issues.
After years of not practicing what I preach, I am going to order up my torque converter. I have been using a reworked 12 inch factory unit with pretty good success, but really need a quality piece.
Approx every 3 seasons I balloon my stocker. It cannot handle the nitrous very well. Gonna raise the stall a bit and lose approx 13 pounds off the back of the crank
I dont mind if u beat my azz or rick beat mine as long iam beaten by a vette fella. Now i got nitrous powered it will be sprayed this weekend or next hope i dont break anything,
Cool pete, thats nice u already drove my car and felt the crispyness and quickiness of throttle response, i have a 9.5" anti ballon plates, 3000 stall lock up. should be good for nitrous.