hooker header install --and y pipe
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 234
Likes: 0
From: sidney ohio
hooker header install --and y pipe
so im going to install lt headers today on my 86...
Q1---do i use the stock manifold bolts to attach the lt headers.
Q2---in what order do i torque them down and how much torque is needed
Q3---im useing percys deadsoft amuminum header gaskets do i need to put any rtv on them
Q4--- is there anything i will have to adjust to install
thx to all in advance
Q1---do i use the stock manifold bolts to attach the lt headers.
Q2---in what order do i torque them down and how much torque is needed
Q3---im useing percys deadsoft amuminum header gaskets do i need to put any rtv on them
Q4--- is there anything i will have to adjust to install
thx to all in advance
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
New ones come with new bolts in the box. I assume yours are used. Stock bolts are too long unless your Hookers have the provided sleeves welded on the flanges to space them out like the factory ones already have. If not, stock bolts are too long. Get shorter ones. Parts stores carry them.
Just snug. Go by feel. Re snug each one after a few heat cycles for the next few days untill they remain snug. The collector ones too.
No. But use anti-seize compound on all exhaust fastners. Use dead soft on the collectors too.
Which y pipe are you using? If your car is an auto, and you are using Hooker's matching y pipe, it's going to hit the corner of your trans pan on the passanger side. This will require the corner section to be cut out and a new section with the correct bend welded in. You'll never get a flush seal at the collectors like this. If you have a manual car, you're ok and have nothing to worry about.
You'll also need to do someting for the rear AC compressor brace. I bought a sleeve at the hardware store. I painted it with black rustoleum after this pic was taken:
The rear alternator brace will need someting as well. This is TA's car:
I've been running with no rear alt brace for years and nothing has happened.
TIP: Remove the front diagonal frame brace on passanger side if you want to make it easier on yourself to get the passenger header in. Re-install the brace with header in place but no bolted to the head yet. If you don't the header will block access to the upper rear brace bolt you see below after you bolt it to the head. This pic explains. I also had to notch the green area for clearance.
Which y pipe are you using? If your car is an auto, and you are using Hooker's matching y pipe, it's going to hit the corner of your trans pan on the passanger side. This will require the corner section to be cut out and a new section with the correct bend welded in. You'll never get a flush seal at the collectors like this. If you have a manual car, you're ok and have nothing to worry about.
You'll also need to do someting for the rear AC compressor brace. I bought a sleeve at the hardware store. I painted it with black rustoleum after this pic was taken:
The rear alternator brace will need someting as well. This is TA's car:
I've been running with no rear alt brace for years and nothing has happened.
TIP: Remove the front diagonal frame brace on passanger side if you want to make it easier on yourself to get the passenger header in. Re-install the brace with header in place but no bolted to the head yet. If you don't the header will block access to the upper rear brace bolt you see below after you bolt it to the head. This pic explains. I also had to notch the green area for clearance.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
The last header bolt on passenger side is going to be a bitch. The way I get to that one is like this:
1/4" drive ratchet with swivel joint and small hands. Come in from the top. It's easier if you headers have spaced out flanges like the factory ones.
1/4" drive ratchet with swivel joint and small hands. Come in from the top. It's easier if you headers have spaced out flanges like the factory ones.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
From: Castleton NY
Q1 - use header bolts.
Q2 - tighten them from the center outward. After the car warms up and you drive a little, you'll probably have to re-tighten them
Q3 - I don't think you can go wrong with Hi temp RTV, although you probably won't need it
Q4 - just don't forget to re check those bolts after a while.
Good luck
Q2 - tighten them from the center outward. After the car warms up and you drive a little, you'll probably have to re-tighten them
Q3 - I don't think you can go wrong with Hi temp RTV, although you probably won't need it
Q4 - just don't forget to re check those bolts after a while.
Good luck
