C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Clicking While Turning Dana 44

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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 11:45 AM
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Default Clicking While Turning Dana 44

Greetings,
My 1987 vette has always made this clicking sound when making a turn. It doesn't make this sound under acceleration as others have identified on this forum. I checked my u-joints and wheel bearings and no play is evident. I did notice differential fluid leaking from the front seal.

Would a low level of differential fluid cause this condition? What fluid should I use to refill? Anyone with experience in changing this seal?

Thanks
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 03:47 PM
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Upon further research, Could I have a locker installed by the previous owner? Are Dana 44 Positraction?
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mcguirjf
Upon further research, Could I have a locker installed by the previous owner? Are Dana 44 Positraction?
yes it a posi
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 04:21 PM
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I've had U-joints that were bad, but didn't exhibit any play.
A click: I'm betting a bad U-joint...remember, there are SIX of 'em!

Does it happen ONLY in a turn???

You could have damaged spider gears in the differential, but it isn't very common.

Larry
code5coupe
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mcguirjf
Upon further research, Could I have a locker installed by the previous owner? Are Dana 44 Positraction?
There are detroit lockers made for the dana 44 but has anything else been done to the car. "lockers" are and expensive mod and probably not the thing someone would have done first.
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 04:50 PM
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If it only happens in a turn then it is probably the clutches in the diff. sticking. You can lube them by doing 5 to 8 tight 360 degree turns in both directions. That will work the clutches and get some gear oil in them. While you are concerned about the problem you should change the gear oil in the rear. At least have a look at the level if you notice a leak. Mobil 1 synthetic is the greatest IMO but others have their favorites. Don't forget posi additive (although my research says you don't need it with Mobil 1 and with 50,000 miles on it everything is still good).
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 06:13 PM
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It could still be the half-shaft u-joint(s)... I have found that many times you can't find any play in them untill you get the rear off the ground, put it in nuetral and turn them while pulling and pushing on the shaft itself. There is usually only one small area of turn where you can feel any give in the u-joints. After that then start looking at the cluch pack and gears.
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 06:34 PM
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hi there guys,
sorry for butting in but,
speaking of clutch pack kit for dana 44 rear end!
i have heard of the dana rebild kit which comes with pinion bearings,shims,pinion seal,yoke and so on!

but where and how much ?, would it cost to buy the clutch pack also to suit dana 44 rear end?

or does the clutch pack kit come with the rebuild kit?

what comes in the clutch pack kit please?

who would sell this clutch pack kit?
cheers
glen
Australia
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by sxyvet
hi there guys,
sorry for butting in but,
speaking of clutch pack kit for dana 44 rear end!
i have heard of the dana rebild kit which comes with pinion bearings,shims,pinion seal,yoke and so on!

but where and how much ?, would it cost to buy the clutch pack also to suit dana 44 rear end?

or does the clutch pack kit come with the rebuild kit?

what comes in the clutch pack kit please?

who would sell this clutch pack kit?
cheers
glen
Australia
I just bought a "clutch pack" from http://www.randysringandpinion.com/for under $50. They also sell a kit with clutches and spiders for more $. They sell differant bearing kits with seals, shims for what ever you need.
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 10:24 AM
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Default Clicking

Most likely u-jionts, had same problem, changed all 6 ,went away.
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 11:00 AM
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Ujoints would be my first swap after checking the fluid level of the diff and or changing the gear oil and posi fluid.
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 01:06 PM
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sounds to me like some type of locker.

There are lockers that are always engaged kind of like a spool, but will "ratchet" in a turn such as "Aussie" brand lockers. These are popular in the off road world, and I have these in my Jeep. They are very strong, inexpensive and easily installed.

I am not sure if there are even applicaitons in Corvettes, but I don't see why not.

Anyway, it sounds like it could be a locker "ratchet" to me.
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by todd_vette87
It could still be the half-shaft u-joint(s)... I have found that many times you can't find any play in them untill you get the rear off the ground, put it in nuetral and turn them while pulling and pushing on the shaft itself. There is usually only one small area of turn where you can feel any give in the u-joints. After that then start looking at the cluch pack and gears.
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by RichS
I just bought a "clutch pack" from http://www.randysringandpinion.com/for under $50. They also sell a kit with clutches and spiders for more $. They sell differant bearing kits with seals, shims for what ever you need.

hi richs,
thanks for the link mate!
i also found a couple of other places as well!
btw here is the correct link below for the above one you gave me,
www.ring-pinion.com
then there is also,
www.accuautoparts.com
www.jawsgear.com
thanks for your time and help mate!
cheers
glen
Australia
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 12:00 PM
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Default Rear drive shaft u-joints replaced

Still clicking when I start off. Could this be my hubs? How do I fix this? Damn, 4 hours, $20, and basically got nowhere

Please give recommendations.
Thanks
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 12:36 PM
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This is a simple, it is your spindles clicking inside the wheel bearing. This is a common problem with C4's. You have to grease the spindle where its splines contact within the wheel bearing. They are disimiliar metals, and very little if any grease on original assemble. The reason the noise goes away after doing U joints, is because you pull the half shafts out and generally clean and grease things. Just my 2 cents.
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 12:59 PM
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CentralCoaster mentioned

"As for the rusty splines, I lubed the hell out of mine with grease the first time and antiseize the 2nd time, but it did nothing to stop the clunking and clinking noises, the spindle washers are the only wear item in my drivetrain that I haven't replaced."

Do you know what the part number is for these washers? If I can get the part number maybe I'll do a tech right up if anyone is interested.
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by steve40th
spindles clicking inside the wheel bearing.... They are disimiliar metals
You're sure about that.........

Larry
code5coupe

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I ain't easily impressed....
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by rocco16
You're sure about that.........

Larry
code5coupe

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I ain't easily impressed....
Worked for me and a freinds 96 Collector. And it was talked about in a forum a while ago. This is what I believe it was in this post too. I may be worng, but I just looked at the post above yours and apparently it has been done and no change. So, I guess I am wrong, I will reprimand myself in a few.

Last edited by steve40th; Mar 29, 2007 at 01:59 AM.
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 10:13 AM
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Default Re-torqued and Solved!

Just to follow up, I re-torqued the spindle nut three times, saw the spindle drawn more into the hub, and now there is no more clicking!
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