Getting the rust-welded rotor off the hub
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,636
Likes: 3
From: Lafayette IN
Getting the rust-welded rotor off the hub
OK, I never thought it would come down to this. After R&R'ing the front suspension this weekend, I still have my old rotors on-most likely originals with 114,000 miles. They aren't scored at all, but are under specs from the 15+ years of wear. They simply won't come off the hub.
I doused them with WD 40. I soaked them for 2 nights in PB Blaster. I applied heat. I applied even pressure. I took the steering knuckle off the car and stood on the rotor while pulling up on the knuckle (The dust shield is a PITA to take off when the rotor is on). The dang things won't come off. They are rusted on and rusted solidly. I have used a rubber mallet. I have used brute force, and I am a hefty guy.
If I bake them in an oven, I will waste the sealed bearings (which are in excellent condition). Heck, there is so much rust everywhere, the darn things are likely to spontaineously combust if I ever go over a large bump. Give me your crazy ideas. Thanks, -Matt-
I doused them with WD 40. I soaked them for 2 nights in PB Blaster. I applied heat. I applied even pressure. I took the steering knuckle off the car and stood on the rotor while pulling up on the knuckle (The dust shield is a PITA to take off when the rotor is on). The dang things won't come off. They are rusted on and rusted solidly. I have used a rubber mallet. I have used brute force, and I am a hefty guy.
If I bake them in an oven, I will waste the sealed bearings (which are in excellent condition). Heck, there is so much rust everywhere, the darn things are likely to spontaineously combust if I ever go over a large bump. Give me your crazy ideas. Thanks, -Matt-
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
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From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: Getting the rust-welded rotor off the hub (HighHopes85)
Given a little Liquid Wrench has worked on everything I've tryed. You might try it and use a good hammer, the shock should break the rust seal.
If all else fails a machine shop should be able to cut the rotor off.
If all else fails a machine shop should be able to cut the rotor off.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 14,130
Likes: 7
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: Getting the rust-welded rotor off the hub (65Z01)
Have you tried a heavy metal hammer?Youre going to replace the rotors eh?If so you may be able to use one and hit it in places.
I had to hit the hub of the rotor in circles near the studs to loosen the rust enough to get it to come loose.
One time it wouldnt come off the hub..I tried everything...as i took it off and walked to the workbench, I dropped the hub/rotor oto the concrete floor and that seperated it.
You can also try a puller if you have one large enough...it might just be able to get it off.If all else fails, have it cut off.
Good Luck.
I had to hit the hub of the rotor in circles near the studs to loosen the rust enough to get it to come loose.
One time it wouldnt come off the hub..I tried everything...as i took it off and walked to the workbench, I dropped the hub/rotor oto the concrete floor and that seperated it.
You can also try a puller if you have one large enough...it might just be able to get it off.If all else fails, have it cut off.
Good Luck.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 0
From: Largo Florida
Re: Getting the rust-welded rotor off the hub (95Vette&2000SS)
My master mechanic friend showed me the way to get them off. I had the same problem. You don't want to hammer the disc area because you would damage it. You hammer it hard close as you can to the center of the disc. That is in between the lug nuts. Hit in between every lug nut. You may have to use a big metal hammer. This will break lose the rust and the disc will be free. I watched him do this on my fronts and they finally came off after trying everything before.
[Modified by ericcer, 4:36 AM 10/11/2001]
[Modified by ericcer, 4:36 AM 10/11/2001]
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 1
From: Arlington TN
Re: Getting the rust-welded rotor off the hub (ericcer)
My master mechanic friend showed me the way to get them off. I had the same problem. You don't want to hammer the disc area because you would damage it. You hammer it hard close as you can to the center of the disc. That is in between the lug nuts. Hit in between every lug nut. You may have to use a big metal hammer. This will break lose the rust and the disc will be free. I watched him do this on my fronts and they finally came off after trying everything before.
I agree. I had to use a regular hammer. But, I also knew I had to replace, so I wasnt too concerned about the original rotors.[Modified by BrentDev, 10:42 AM 10/11/2001]
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Bartlett, IL
Cruise-In XI Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Re: Getting the rust-welded rotor off the hub (BrentDev)
I have had the same problem with other cars of mine in the past. I have what is called a rawhide hammer, it is a small sledge type hammer with rawhide on the ends, it works much better than a rubber mallet and does not inflict any damage when you hit something. I dont know where to buy one, my father gave me the thing but you may want to look for one.
Best of luck to you
Mike
Best of luck to you
Mike
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,636
Likes: 3
From: Lafayette IN
Re: Getting the rust-welded rotor off the hub (MVR 155)
Wow, appreciate the help. A new ? follows this.
65Z01 - Didn't try Liquid Wrench. I will give it a good saturation.
Bill - You got a point...if I am going to replace them, why don't I just smack them into oblivion instead of wasting time taking them off.
95Vette&2000SS - I probably will, but I gotta try to at least break 2 hammers first :D
ericcer - The hammer, eh? There goes my thumb :U
Brent - How many thumbs you guys want me to smash??? :cry
Mike - I think I know exactly what you are talking about. In fact, I owe my father a new one. I used it to disassemble the first engine I ever worked on and, uh, well...it ain't much of a hammer anymore.
Now that everyone reminded me I was going to replace them anyways, are the cooling fins in the rotor directional? Thanks for all the help. -Matt-
65Z01 - Didn't try Liquid Wrench. I will give it a good saturation.
Bill - You got a point...if I am going to replace them, why don't I just smack them into oblivion instead of wasting time taking them off.
95Vette&2000SS - I probably will, but I gotta try to at least break 2 hammers first :D
ericcer - The hammer, eh? There goes my thumb :U
Brent - How many thumbs you guys want me to smash??? :cry
Mike - I think I know exactly what you are talking about. In fact, I owe my father a new one. I used it to disassemble the first engine I ever worked on and, uh, well...it ain't much of a hammer anymore.
Now that everyone reminded me I was going to replace them anyways, are the cooling fins in the rotor directional? Thanks for all the help. -Matt-
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,525
Likes: 1
From: Sarasota, FL
Re: Getting the rust-welded rotor off the hub (HighHopes85)
Yes the coolilng fins are directional. They point back. THey are supposed to move air from the center of the rotor to the outside.
Bob
Bob
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Boston, MA
Re: Getting the rust-welded rotor off the hub (BobMachus)
Yes the coolilng fins are directional. They point back. THey are supposed to move air from the center of the rotor to the outside.
I replaced all 4 rotors on my car with stock replacements and they were "straight-finned". The only difference in rotors you should see are that the rear two have holes in them to get at the parking brake adjustment screw.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 855
Likes: 0
Re: Getting the rust-welded rotor off the hub (scorp508)
I was going to reuse my rotors (which were stuck) so I used a cut piece of 2x4 to place between the lugs and then I went to wailling on those rotors. I checked the run out afterwards and it was fine. You do want want to be carefull when pound on those rotors because you could damage the anti-lock sensors, just a thought.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,302
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From: Atlanta GA
Re: Getting the rust-welded rotor off the hub (HighHopes85)
Being in the Army Nat'l Guard, I have a method that will work for you...
It is called an MFPD.
Maximum Force Precision Adjustment.
One hefty guy + One sledge hammer + a couple of thumbs = MFPD.
Good luck. :D :D :D
It is called an MFPD.
Maximum Force Precision Adjustment.
One hefty guy + One sledge hammer + a couple of thumbs = MFPD.
Good luck. :D :D :D
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,722
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From: Big D Tx
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: Getting the rust-welded rotor off the hub (dtorc4)
One hefty guy + One sledge hammer + a couple of thumbs = MFPD.
Drifting
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 1,478
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From: Sacramento, CA Money can't buy happiness - but it's more comfortable to cry in a Corvette than a Yugo.
Re: Getting the rust-welded rotor off the hub (HighHopes85)
HighHopes85,
I had the same exact problem about 4 months ago on my front rotors. I tried most if not all of the recommendations already given. I even tried using a BFH (16lb sledge) AND liquid Wrench. Limited swing space for the sledge, so No Luck. Then I removed the bearing/rotor assembly with the rotors attached. It is then pretty easy to set the whloe uint down on a hard surface (studs down) apply enough force using the BFH or other implement to knock the rotor loose. For some reason, once the rotors were away from the car and I had maximum room to apply force, the rotors gave up pretty easy.
It's simple psychologly. When they are no longer protected by your fear of damaging fenders and other suspension parts, the rotors lose their attitude and let go.
I had the same exact problem about 4 months ago on my front rotors. I tried most if not all of the recommendations already given. I even tried using a BFH (16lb sledge) AND liquid Wrench. Limited swing space for the sledge, so No Luck. Then I removed the bearing/rotor assembly with the rotors attached. It is then pretty easy to set the whloe uint down on a hard surface (studs down) apply enough force using the BFH or other implement to knock the rotor loose. For some reason, once the rotors were away from the car and I had maximum room to apply force, the rotors gave up pretty easy.
It's simple psychologly. When they are no longer protected by your fear of damaging fenders and other suspension parts, the rotors lose their attitude and let go.
