Spark plug instalation question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 442
Likes: 0
From: Albany Oregon
Spark plug instalation question
I never expected things to be so tight in the spark plug area on my 93 coupe. 
Is there any tips or special tools I'm gonna need for some of them? I noticed that there were a few that were easy to get to but there are others that are going to be a bitch to get at. Any suggestions would be appriciated!!
So does anybody do this to their plugs prior to instalation? If so, what do you think? Does it help with mileage?
Is there any tips or special tools I'm gonna need for some of them? I noticed that there were a few that were easy to get to but there are others that are going to be a bitch to get at. Any suggestions would be appriciated!! So does anybody do this to their plugs prior to instalation? If so, what do you think? Does it help with mileage?
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,949
Likes: 705
From: WI
You may cut back the plugs but then you'd have to change them more often. You can also index them. There would be a small change in power.
On my car I had to learn where and how to reach the plugs. It's pretty easy now that I have done it a few times. I used a swivel head rachet and several different sized extensions. I think I use a 1" extension for a bunch.
On my car I had to learn where and how to reach the plugs. It's pretty easy now that I have done it a few times. I used a swivel head rachet and several different sized extensions. I think I use a 1" extension for a bunch.
Pro
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 675
Likes: 3
From: Mississauga Ont.
These tips courtesy of SJW came in handy when I did mine last year
Dave
Changing the plug wires on an LT1/LT4 Corvette is not a lot of fun, but it can be done. Here are a few tips:
1. Raise the front end of the vehicle to a more comfortable working height.
2. Remove the inner fenderwell center panel on the driver's side. This will allow you to both see and do the job much more easily on the driver's side. You may also find it helpful to remove the wheel.
3. Unbolt the ASR bracketry from the frame, so that you can slide the ASR unit around to get it out of your way.
4. Unbolt the power steering pump so that you can move it forward around a half inch. This will make it much easier to sneak the plug wires in/out behind the pump.
5. Remove the serpentine belt and tensioner.
6. Use dielectric grease in the boots at both ends of the wires. Be sure to "burp" the air out of the boots after you get each of them pushed firmly into place, so that the trapped air doesn't try to push the wires off later.
Some guys report that they've had decent success accessing the Opti-end of the plug wires from underneath of the car, and that this saved them the trouble of removing the belt and tensioner. I haven't tried this, so I can't comment.
Take your time, work with care, and pay attention to what you're doing. The OEM replacement plug wires from your Chevy dealer are high quality parts, and will route (and fit into the wire looms) correctly. Run the new wires properly, and make sure they stay away from anything that moves, is sharp, or gets hot.
The passenger's side is not such a bad job. The driver's side is a Queen Royal Beyotch (mostly because all of the belt-driven accessories are hanging on the driver’s side of the front of LT1/LT4 engines, and they leave little room for you to work or see what you’re doing). With plenty of patience, beer and Band-Aids, you'll get it done.
The spark plugs on the driver's side aren't so bad, when you've got things apart to do the wires. The passenger's side, however, is not so easy. The number 8 plug in particular can be a real headache, but with good tools and enough patience, you can get it done. Because there isn’t room for a ratchet on top of the spark plug socket, I use a plug socket that has a hex head on it so that it can be turned with an open end or box end wrench. It's useful to have more than one plug socket to choose from, as some will work better than others due to differences in length, wall thickness, etc.
Be sure to apply a small amount of anti-sieze compound to the threads of the new plugs before you install them so that they won’t seize in the cylinder heads in the future (this is especially important with aluminum heads). Just make sure none of the compound gets onto the electrodes or insulators of the plugs. I apply a very thin stripe of compound across the threads in one spot, and it spreads itself around the threads as I screw the plug into the hole. Also be careful that you don’t pick up any of the grunge that may have accumulated over the years around the spark plug hole in the cylinder head on the new plugs’ electrodes/insulators/threads while you’re installing them – try your best to get the tip of the plug straight into the hole on the first shot.
For OEM parts at great prices, contact Chris May at Superior Chevrolet (1-800-728-8267), and tell him you're a Corvette Forum member.
Regarding the G20: What model year and what engine are we talking about here?
Be well,
SJW
Dave
Changing the plug wires on an LT1/LT4 Corvette is not a lot of fun, but it can be done. Here are a few tips:
1. Raise the front end of the vehicle to a more comfortable working height.
2. Remove the inner fenderwell center panel on the driver's side. This will allow you to both see and do the job much more easily on the driver's side. You may also find it helpful to remove the wheel.
3. Unbolt the ASR bracketry from the frame, so that you can slide the ASR unit around to get it out of your way.
4. Unbolt the power steering pump so that you can move it forward around a half inch. This will make it much easier to sneak the plug wires in/out behind the pump.
5. Remove the serpentine belt and tensioner.
6. Use dielectric grease in the boots at both ends of the wires. Be sure to "burp" the air out of the boots after you get each of them pushed firmly into place, so that the trapped air doesn't try to push the wires off later.
Some guys report that they've had decent success accessing the Opti-end of the plug wires from underneath of the car, and that this saved them the trouble of removing the belt and tensioner. I haven't tried this, so I can't comment.
Take your time, work with care, and pay attention to what you're doing. The OEM replacement plug wires from your Chevy dealer are high quality parts, and will route (and fit into the wire looms) correctly. Run the new wires properly, and make sure they stay away from anything that moves, is sharp, or gets hot.
The passenger's side is not such a bad job. The driver's side is a Queen Royal Beyotch (mostly because all of the belt-driven accessories are hanging on the driver’s side of the front of LT1/LT4 engines, and they leave little room for you to work or see what you’re doing). With plenty of patience, beer and Band-Aids, you'll get it done.
The spark plugs on the driver's side aren't so bad, when you've got things apart to do the wires. The passenger's side, however, is not so easy. The number 8 plug in particular can be a real headache, but with good tools and enough patience, you can get it done. Because there isn’t room for a ratchet on top of the spark plug socket, I use a plug socket that has a hex head on it so that it can be turned with an open end or box end wrench. It's useful to have more than one plug socket to choose from, as some will work better than others due to differences in length, wall thickness, etc.
Be sure to apply a small amount of anti-sieze compound to the threads of the new plugs before you install them so that they won’t seize in the cylinder heads in the future (this is especially important with aluminum heads). Just make sure none of the compound gets onto the electrodes or insulators of the plugs. I apply a very thin stripe of compound across the threads in one spot, and it spreads itself around the threads as I screw the plug into the hole. Also be careful that you don’t pick up any of the grunge that may have accumulated over the years around the spark plug hole in the cylinder head on the new plugs’ electrodes/insulators/threads while you’re installing them – try your best to get the tip of the plug straight into the hole on the first shot.
For OEM parts at great prices, contact Chris May at Superior Chevrolet (1-800-728-8267), and tell him you're a Corvette Forum member.
Regarding the G20: What model year and what engine are we talking about here?
Be well,
SJW
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
So does anybody do this to their plugs prior to instalation?
..I just installed a new set of cut-back FR5LS two days ago... Since you've been on my site you already know what gains I've seen from this mod.
I might note that, though the old set had been in about 1yr they were only opened up maybe .003"-.004". I only changed them becuase I'm chasing a serious power loss problem and had to pull the plugs to run a compression check.
Safety Car
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 3,651
Likes: 5
From: Atlantis
Cruise-In I Veteran
Yep, I do 'that' to my plugs. I don't buy them like that, I do it with a grinder and a file and have not experienced having to change them more often.
'That' is a really old 'racers trick' worth a couple of 'free' horsepower.
It's one of those little things that, added to a lot of other 'little' things, can make a substantial improvement in engine output.
Tip: To keep the 'grunge' from getting on the plug tip when you're 'trying to hit the hole', after you remove the plug wire spray brake cleaner around the base of the OLD plug to clean all that stuff outta there BEFORE you remove the old plug..
Inevetibly, when you're trying to get the new plug threaded in, you'll pick up a lot of junk on the plug.
Just spray it away, right before removing the old plug, with the little 'spritzer' end that comes with the brake cleaner.
If you have to, tape a couple of the spritzers together so you can get the 'grunge' out.
'That' is a really old 'racers trick' worth a couple of 'free' horsepower.
It's one of those little things that, added to a lot of other 'little' things, can make a substantial improvement in engine output.
Tip: To keep the 'grunge' from getting on the plug tip when you're 'trying to hit the hole', after you remove the plug wire spray brake cleaner around the base of the OLD plug to clean all that stuff outta there BEFORE you remove the old plug..
Inevetibly, when you're trying to get the new plug threaded in, you'll pick up a lot of junk on the plug.
Just spray it away, right before removing the old plug, with the little 'spritzer' end that comes with the brake cleaner.
If you have to, tape a couple of the spritzers together so you can get the 'grunge' out.
Last edited by VetNutJim; Mar 18, 2007 at 01:05 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 3
From: Oxford CT
These tips courtesy of SJW came in handy when I did mine last year
Dave
Changing the plug wires on an LT1/LT4 Corvette is not a lot of fun, but it can be done. Here are a few tips:
1. Raise the front end of the vehicle to a more comfortable working height.
2. Remove the inner fenderwell center panel on the driver's side. This will allow you to both see and do the job much more easily on the driver's side. You may also find it helpful to remove the wheel.
3. Unbolt the ASR bracketry from the frame, so that you can slide the ASR unit around to get it out of your way.
4. Unbolt the power steering pump so that you can move it forward around a half inch. This will make it much easier to sneak the plug wires in/out behind the pump.
5. Remove the serpentine belt and tensioner.
6. Use dielectric grease in the boots at both ends of the wires. Be sure to "burp" the air out of the boots after you get each of them pushed firmly into place, so that the trapped air doesn't try to push the wires off later.
Some guys report that they've had decent success accessing the Opti-end of the plug wires from underneath of the car, and that this saved them the trouble of removing the belt and tensioner. I haven't tried this, so I can't comment.
Take your time, work with care, and pay attention to what you're doing. The OEM replacement plug wires from your Chevy dealer are high quality parts, and will route (and fit into the wire looms) correctly. Run the new wires properly, and make sure they stay away from anything that moves, is sharp, or gets hot.
The passenger's side is not such a bad job. The driver's side is a Queen Royal Beyotch (mostly because all of the belt-driven accessories are hanging on the driver’s side of the front of LT1/LT4 engines, and they leave little room for you to work or see what you’re doing). With plenty of patience, beer and Band-Aids, you'll get it done.
The spark plugs on the driver's side aren't so bad, when you've got things apart to do the wires. The passenger's side, however, is not so easy. The number 8 plug in particular can be a real headache, but with good tools and enough patience, you can get it done. Because there isn’t room for a ratchet on top of the spark plug socket, I use a plug socket that has a hex head on it so that it can be turned with an open end or box end wrench. It's useful to have more than one plug socket to choose from, as some will work better than others due to differences in length, wall thickness, etc.
Be sure to apply a small amount of anti-sieze compound to the threads of the new plugs before you install them so that they won’t seize in the cylinder heads in the future (this is especially important with aluminum heads). Just make sure none of the compound gets onto the electrodes or insulators of the plugs. I apply a very thin stripe of compound across the threads in one spot, and it spreads itself around the threads as I screw the plug into the hole. Also be careful that you don’t pick up any of the grunge that may have accumulated over the years around the spark plug hole in the cylinder head on the new plugs’ electrodes/insulators/threads while you’re installing them – try your best to get the tip of the plug straight into the hole on the first shot.
For OEM parts at great prices, contact Chris May at Superior Chevrolet (1-800-728-8267), and tell him you're a Corvette Forum member.
Regarding the G20: What model year and what engine are we talking about here?
Be well,
SJW
Dave
Changing the plug wires on an LT1/LT4 Corvette is not a lot of fun, but it can be done. Here are a few tips:
1. Raise the front end of the vehicle to a more comfortable working height.
2. Remove the inner fenderwell center panel on the driver's side. This will allow you to both see and do the job much more easily on the driver's side. You may also find it helpful to remove the wheel.
3. Unbolt the ASR bracketry from the frame, so that you can slide the ASR unit around to get it out of your way.
4. Unbolt the power steering pump so that you can move it forward around a half inch. This will make it much easier to sneak the plug wires in/out behind the pump.
5. Remove the serpentine belt and tensioner.
6. Use dielectric grease in the boots at both ends of the wires. Be sure to "burp" the air out of the boots after you get each of them pushed firmly into place, so that the trapped air doesn't try to push the wires off later.
Some guys report that they've had decent success accessing the Opti-end of the plug wires from underneath of the car, and that this saved them the trouble of removing the belt and tensioner. I haven't tried this, so I can't comment.
Take your time, work with care, and pay attention to what you're doing. The OEM replacement plug wires from your Chevy dealer are high quality parts, and will route (and fit into the wire looms) correctly. Run the new wires properly, and make sure they stay away from anything that moves, is sharp, or gets hot.
The passenger's side is not such a bad job. The driver's side is a Queen Royal Beyotch (mostly because all of the belt-driven accessories are hanging on the driver’s side of the front of LT1/LT4 engines, and they leave little room for you to work or see what you’re doing). With plenty of patience, beer and Band-Aids, you'll get it done.
The spark plugs on the driver's side aren't so bad, when you've got things apart to do the wires. The passenger's side, however, is not so easy. The number 8 plug in particular can be a real headache, but with good tools and enough patience, you can get it done. Because there isn’t room for a ratchet on top of the spark plug socket, I use a plug socket that has a hex head on it so that it can be turned with an open end or box end wrench. It's useful to have more than one plug socket to choose from, as some will work better than others due to differences in length, wall thickness, etc.
Be sure to apply a small amount of anti-sieze compound to the threads of the new plugs before you install them so that they won’t seize in the cylinder heads in the future (this is especially important with aluminum heads). Just make sure none of the compound gets onto the electrodes or insulators of the plugs. I apply a very thin stripe of compound across the threads in one spot, and it spreads itself around the threads as I screw the plug into the hole. Also be careful that you don’t pick up any of the grunge that may have accumulated over the years around the spark plug hole in the cylinder head on the new plugs’ electrodes/insulators/threads while you’re installing them – try your best to get the tip of the plug straight into the hole on the first shot.
For OEM parts at great prices, contact Chris May at Superior Chevrolet (1-800-728-8267), and tell him you're a Corvette Forum member.
Regarding the G20: What model year and what engine are we talking about here?
Be well,
SJW
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,841
Likes: 19
From: CLT, North Carolina
I recently replaced the spark plug wires on my 96 while it was apart fixing oil leaks and I did it before I put the the accessories back on so there was a lot of room. After it was completely back together and with a second look I decided the appearance of the wire routing might work out a little better if I exchanged two wires on each side because of length differences so I did. It is possible to fish the wires out on each side with everything in place. On the right side you are only going under the power steering reservoir bracket which is easy. The left side is a little more difficult but there is room to remove and replace wires through the path between the tensioner and engine accessory bracket. The toughest part of the job would be if you removed all the wires and looms first without taking pictures or making notes and trying to get all the different parts back in the original places. Advice above about antiseize on the plug threads is good, be sure to do it. Also as mentioned above get some dialectric grease for the plug wire ends; makes assembly easier because you can feel the ends plug-in all the way and engage in place better in otherwise limited access areas and you have something that is easier to unplug the next time. You will appreciate this as you try to unplug your sparkplug wire boots from #6 and #8. Have fun!