But first, simply go to the car and turn on the key without trying to start it. What does the voltage gauge read?
Need starter help
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Davison Michigan
Need starter help
I am having some trouble with my '90. When I try to crank the engine all I get is a clicking noise. I am sure the noise is the pinion gear trying to engage the ring gear. I can rotate the engine by hand before I try to start. But afterwards the pinion seems to be stuck because I can only rotate the engine one way and then I hear the pinion retract.
The problem seems to have started after I had the starter off to gain access to the exhaust manifold. I had it off, cleaned it up and re-installed it. It did not have any shims. After the first time I re-installed and got the clicking noise, I put the charger on over night. The battery did not seem to be low, the amp draw on the charger was pretty low. And for most of the winter I have had the float charger hooked up. Still I only get the click. I took the starter off for the second time and re-installed and had the same results.
Hit me with some clues.
Thanks
The problem seems to have started after I had the starter off to gain access to the exhaust manifold. I had it off, cleaned it up and re-installed it. It did not have any shims. After the first time I re-installed and got the clicking noise, I put the charger on over night. The battery did not seem to be low, the amp draw on the charger was pretty low. And for most of the winter I have had the float charger hooked up. Still I only get the click. I took the starter off for the second time and re-installed and had the same results.
Hit me with some clues.
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,488
Likes: 1,352
I am having some trouble with my '90. When I try to crank the engine all I get is a clicking noise. I am sure the noise is the pinion gear trying to engage the ring gear. I can rotate the engine by hand before I try to start. But afterwards the pinion seems to be stuck because I can only rotate the engine one way and then I hear the pinion retract.
The problem seems to have started after I had the starter off to gain access to the exhaust manifold. I had it off, cleaned it up and re-installed it. It did not have any shims. After the first time I re-installed and got the clicking noise, I put the charger on over night. The battery did not seem to be low, the amp draw on the charger was pretty low. And for most of the winter I have had the float charger hooked up. Still I only get the click. I took the starter off for the second time and re-installed and had the same results.
Hit me with some clues.
Thanks
The problem seems to have started after I had the starter off to gain access to the exhaust manifold. I had it off, cleaned it up and re-installed it. It did not have any shims. After the first time I re-installed and got the clicking noise, I put the charger on over night. The battery did not seem to be low, the amp draw on the charger was pretty low. And for most of the winter I have had the float charger hooked up. Still I only get the click. I took the starter off for the second time and re-installed and had the same results.
Hit me with some clues.
Thanks
Put power to the starter on the workbench and see what it does. Or take it to the local auto parts store and have it tested. Process of elimination.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 6
From: Woodstock Georgia
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Poor battery cable connections can limit the starting current below the current that will make the starter turn. You can test this by measuring the voltage at the battery terminals while someone hits the starter. The battery voltage should not fall below 9.0 volts. If it does, remove the battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs, bolts and the battery terminals and replace (neg last). If it is above 9.0 volts and the starter motor won't crank, then you likely have pitted contacts inside the starter. The solenoid at the end of its stroke forces two large copper contacts together which switch 12v to the starter motor. These contacts get pitted and don't make a low enough resistance connection to allow the starter motor to run. One way to prove this without taking the starter motor apart is to continually hit the start position on the ign sw and bang these contacts together until you break through some of the corrosion and finally the starter cranks. This doesn't always work! Last , take the solenoid off the starter and look at the condition of the contacts.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Davison Michigan
OK, thanks for the suggestions. Here are the results; the starter functions on the bench. I have a little over 12 volts measured at the battery, 11.9 volts at the battery while trying to crank. I also tried checking the voltage at the starter during cranking. I put the pos. meter lead on the large post of the starter and the neg. meter lead to the starter casing. I only get .2 volts when cranking. That didn't seem right.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,050
Likes: 147
From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
volts
.2 volts may be correct.
put an ammeter in between the starter and the cable, and that will give you the current draw.
The volts under start should be measured both at the battery, and the
starter. they should be the same.
If the volts are different, it's the cable.
put an ammeter in between the starter and the cable, and that will give you the current draw.
The volts under start should be measured both at the battery, and the
starter. they should be the same.
If the volts are different, it's the cable.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Davison Michigan
Doh!
Yep it was the cable. Works a lot better when the battery cable is hooked up.
I'd had the starter off for so long that I didn't remember that 3rd cable. And it was so neatly hidden behind a heat shield.
The shop electrical manual touble shooting guide led me right to a bad battery cable. And when I started tracing it to see where it needed to be disconnected from, the starter end was already off!
Everything is good now and in plenty of time for cocktail hour.
Thanks for the help.
I'd had the starter off for so long that I didn't remember that 3rd cable. And it was so neatly hidden behind a heat shield.
The shop electrical manual touble shooting guide led me right to a bad battery cable. And when I started tracing it to see where it needed to be disconnected from, the starter end was already off!
Everything is good now and in plenty of time for cocktail hour.
Thanks for the help.
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