A 2800 stall converter?!
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2002
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A 2800 stall converter?!
I am wanting to get a high quality, low weight converter for my '91. I have talked to PeteK about it and he says he can get me a nice 9.5" unit but that when you get the smaller diameter converters the stall speed must be higher. Give me you opinions on driveability, durability and performance with a switch from a 12" 2000 stall B&M to a custom made 2600-2800 stall converter. My car will have a good sized tranny fluid cooler...is that the only mod i really need if I go with such a high stall? I think I would also like to install a tranny temp gauge on the A-pillar to keep tabs on it. Any idea on the acceleration difference? Unfortunately I have 2.59s
#2
I am wanting to get a high quality, low weight converter for my '91. I have talked to PeteK about it and he says he can get me a nice 9.5" unit but that when you get the smaller diameter converters the stall speed must be higher. Give me you opinions on driveability, durability and performance with a switch from a 12" 2000 stall B&M to a custom made 2600-2800 stall converter. My car will have a good sized tranny fluid cooler...is that the only mod i really need if I go with such a high stall? I think I would also like to install a tranny temp gauge on the A-pillar to keep tabs on it. Any idea on the acceleration difference? Unfortunately I have 2.59s
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Athens AL
Posts: 59,647
Received 1,401 Likes
on
1,017 Posts
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I dont think anything above 2600 feels right on the street, and 2800 is way too much for a stock/nearly stock L98.
More like 2200 would be better.
More like 2200 would be better.
#4
I would agree with this statement. I had a 12" 2500 stall behind a 345 crank hp L98, it wasn't a bad unit but was pretty much an on or off TC around the stall speed.
I currently have a 420-30 crank hp car with a 9.5" precision stall that I specified to be 26-2800. According to my datalogs it comes on right around 2700. This TC is not an off/on unit. You mash the throttle you get the full stall effect but if you are nice to the car in 25mph city driving it has a real good feel, not stock, but not the "off/on" effect of a cheaper stall. If you want nice crap for your car you will pay for it.
And comparing a B&M unit to a high priced stall isn't even apples to apples.
#5
Race Director
My Vigilante Converter (2800 stall) feels VERY similar to stock and is not an issue driving at all.. both my mother and my girlfriend have driven the car since its been in and didnt even notice.. The quality of the converter I would suspect comes into play..
I'm sure Pete K wont steer you wrong!
I'm sure Pete K wont steer you wrong!
#6
Safety Car
Member Since: May 1999
Location: Atlantis
Posts: 3,651
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Cruise-In I Veteran
My Vigilante Converter (2800 stall) feels VERY similar to stock and is not an issue driving at all.. both my mother and my girlfriend have driven the car since its been in and didnt even notice.. The quality of the converter I would suspect comes into play..
I'm sure Pete K wont steer you wrong!
I'm sure Pete K wont steer you wrong!
and
feels VERY similar to stock and is not an issue driving at all..
But....when the throttle goes to the FLOOR, it's very apparent sumpin ain't stock anymore. Those RPM'er things jump right on up there to where they can do the 'mostest' good.
I'm sure Pete K wont steer you wrong!
#7
I think you'd notice a good difference going from the cheaper 2000 rpm stall to a 2800 stall with a smaller diameter. But if it's a quality unit, it shouldn't decrease your driveability much if at all.
Heck, my 2200 stall isn't much of a difference in my mind, except when I pound the pedal... then I notice it. Now I'm thinking I should have gone a tad higher, maybe 2600.
Heck, my 2200 stall isn't much of a difference in my mind, except when I pound the pedal... then I notice it. Now I'm thinking I should have gone a tad higher, maybe 2600.
#8
Le Mans Master
IMHO the best thing to do when going to a higher stall converter is to decrease its dia. When you take a 12 in converter and increase the stall, you basicially flatten the vanes inside to do this. This causes the mushy feeling when driving around town.
When going with a smaller dia. converter, you can achieve the higher stall without effecting the around town driving (light throttle) as much.
The only real trade off between the 12in and the 9.5 will be heat and you have that covered with the additional cooler.
When going with a smaller dia. converter, you can achieve the higher stall without effecting the around town driving (light throttle) as much.
The only real trade off between the 12in and the 9.5 will be heat and you have that covered with the additional cooler.
#10
Elite Torch Red Member
#11
Race Director
#12
Race Director
I'm running a Vigilante 3200 stall in my 93...very nice street manners...I put in a tranny cooler when I went with this converter...I considered a gauge but decided against it after a discussion with my installer...Mike at Next Level Performance does my work and he said:
You have been driving around and racing this car for all these years without a gauge so why would you put one in now after adding a cooler?...I suppose if you are the curious type or paranoid it would be fine to put in a gauge but, really, what's the point if you've never had one in the car before?...
You have been driving around and racing this car for all these years without a gauge so why would you put one in now after adding a cooler?...I suppose if you are the curious type or paranoid it would be fine to put in a gauge but, really, what's the point if you've never had one in the car before?...
#13
Thanks for all the replys guys. I would think for my combo maybe if they could get the unit to stall at 2500-2600 that would be best since my car seems to just make a bunch of noise and waste gas after ~5300rpm