Well it's official, I have to change my L98 intake gasket
#21
Racer
Thread Starter
Why bother trying to clean things like this yourself. PITA and you won't get it as clean. I gladly paid my local machine shop a nominal fee for them to do all this dirty work for me. While they did this, I degreased under the hood. Then I just picked up the parts which looked better than new and buttoned the motor back up. Just keep all bracketry, screws, and bolts at home with you. It's best to hand them bare parts with nothing for them to loose.
BTW.. NICE job under your hood
#22
Team Owner
Member Since: May 2002
Location: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
16 Posts
A machine shop can either soak these or bead blast them, or both. Either way, it'll look miles better than you'll ever be able to do by hand.
Don't worry about the gasket surfaces, you're fine.
BEFORE
AFTER
There are also ways to remove dents in the runner tubes if you're picky about that.
Don't worry about the gasket surfaces, you're fine.
BEFORE
AFTER
There are also ways to remove dents in the runner tubes if you're picky about that.
Last edited by CentralCoaster; 04-03-2007 at 09:49 AM.
#23
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: altered state
Posts: 81,242
Received 3,043 Likes
on
2,602 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05
Looks like its coming aling nicely..Changing gaskets on an L98 is a right of passage to ownership. Had mine off 6 times in 2 years, they ALL leak.
Last edited by cv67; 04-04-2007 at 12:41 AM.
#24
Good lord all these posts and no one even brought up PORTING. When i did my intake gaskets job i port the hell outta the base,runners and plenum. Made a world of differnce and it's was cheap just took time. In the long run it helped my HP, i'm still tweeking my chip for the sweet spot.
#26
Racer
Thread Starter
In deep~
Here's an update for today..
I've removed everything off the front of the motor except the PS. I'm stuck on the pulley removal (I've got a different post for that)
All the brackets, TPI parts, manifold and valve covers are off at the powder coating comapny getting cleaned up.. The valve covers are getting powder coated, and everything else is getting tumbled. Once I get the stupid PS bracket off, that will go get tumbled too.
I picked up some little things at the dealer Friday.. the o-rings for the fuel delivery and return line couplers, new fuel injector clips, radiator cap and manifold bolts.
Since I'm going to pull the radiator to clean that up I'm going to get new upper and lower hoses too. I'm also going to look into replacing the oem heater hoses.. one has a couple 'T''s molded in.. Hopefully the dealer can still get them.
Here's a picture from today.. I've still got a long time to go~
I've removed everything off the front of the motor except the PS. I'm stuck on the pulley removal (I've got a different post for that)
All the brackets, TPI parts, manifold and valve covers are off at the powder coating comapny getting cleaned up.. The valve covers are getting powder coated, and everything else is getting tumbled. Once I get the stupid PS bracket off, that will go get tumbled too.
I picked up some little things at the dealer Friday.. the o-rings for the fuel delivery and return line couplers, new fuel injector clips, radiator cap and manifold bolts.
Since I'm going to pull the radiator to clean that up I'm going to get new upper and lower hoses too. I'm also going to look into replacing the oem heater hoses.. one has a couple 'T''s molded in.. Hopefully the dealer can still get them.
Here's a picture from today.. I've still got a long time to go~
#27
Race Director
NAPA had high temp. plastic tee fitting in the right sizes for mine. I had a bad heater hose and saw prices of $100 for the bent hose. I used bulk heater hose and ran a new hose while doing the TB bypass a long with the tee fittings.
#28
Team Owner
Member Since: May 2002
Location: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
16 Posts
You don't need to remove the pulley to get the PS pump off the motor. But if you still want to, borrow the tool from kragen/autozone. It's not coming off any other way.
My 85 came stock with a metal hose tee. With the tee, you don't need any special hoses. And if you do for something else, you can use EZ coils to make any hose on the car.
My 85 came stock with a metal hose tee. With the tee, you don't need any special hoses. And if you do for something else, you can use EZ coils to make any hose on the car.
#29
Racer
Thread Starter
#30
Le Mans Master
The PS pump does not need to be removed. Just remove that stud that goes through the PS pump braket and threads into the head. Once that is off, the head simply lifts up and out with the PS and braket in place. I've done this job about 3 times. I just cleaned the bracket in place with degreaser. You can't really see it that much when everything is assembled to warrant the trouble.
#32
Team Owner
Member Since: Dec 2000
Location: SE NY
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 0
Received 300 Likes
on
274 Posts
Cruise-In II Veteran
one has a couple 'T''s molded in.. Hopefully the dealer can still get them.
I ordered one and my dealer gave me a "coupled" hose instead of a molded one...
#34
Racer
Thread Starter
Why bother trying to clean things like this yourself. PITA and you won't get it as clean. I gladly paid my local machine shop a nominal fee for them to do all this dirty work for me. While they did this, I degreased under the hood. Then I just picked up the parts which looked better than new and buttoned the motor back up. Just keep all bracketry, screws, and bolts at home with you. It's best to hand them bare parts with nothing for them to loose.
It's been awhile since I updated this thread, but I have made some progress.. I did get the PS steering pump out of the car and the pulley off.. sent that bracket off to get tumbled with the rest of the other stuff.
All that tumbled stuff is done now and the difference is amazing. They charged $45 for as much as they could fit in the tumbling cabinet and it took 2 times to get everything done.. for $90 dollars I am well pleased.
Here's the before and after of the intake manifold:
I've degreased everything under the hood and repainted the front of the engine block / timing cover.. I've cleaned the crossmember and steering rack, I took the radiator out and cleaned it and removed all the debris in the shroud, I've cleaned all the suspension components and brightened them up with some fine steel wool, I replaced the front shocks with new Bilsteins, I painted my front calipers silver and installed some new 13" rotors and Porterfield RS4 pads, and last night I put a new roller bearing water pump on. Tonight, the intake manifold goes back in place~
It feels good to see things starting to come back together now..under the hood is going to look 100 times better than it did.
I will say this about working on a C4.. it is EASY compared to every other car I've owned. The fact that you can pull the front tires off and stand right next to the motor on either side makes my back happy. I can't imagine doing this same job on an F body or any other full fendered car for that matter.
Well.. back to the slow and steady progress..
Last edited by SEA4; 04-18-2007 at 09:33 AM.
#35
How does tumbling work?
Looking for info; BYW, nice job on tackling the project. I do a bunch of work on cars, but really never had the need to "tumble" or clean a part to that degree. (I have owned a bunch of sportscars, mostly 5.0's). What does tumbling do? Can you get the same result by soaking in cleaner?
#36
Racer
Thread Starter
Looking for info; BYW, nice job on tackling the project. I do a bunch of work on cars, but really never had the need to "tumble" or clean a part to that degree. (I have owned a bunch of sportscars, mostly 5.0's). What does tumbling do? Can you get the same result by soaking in cleaner?
They cover all the gasket surfaces with 2 layers of duct tape and then some sort of really small metal pellet media is whipped around in with the parts bombarding them clean..
I didn't 'need' to do this, but for the 90 bucks (+ 60 for powdercoating my valve covers) my engine compartment is going to look better than new..
#37
Drifting
Member Since: Oct 2006
Location: Stafford Connecticut
Posts: 1,328
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
13 Posts
Big heads up on intake .Turn it upside down you will see that GM made the back of the intake around the oil sending unit alot thinner than the rest of the intake. When you reinstall the intake it can be moved forward or backward slightly make sure you try to get it as far back as you can with a few bolts installed also as mentioned use Mr Gaskets right stuff gasket maker.Also use fine sand paper on the back and front of motor to clean the surfaces of all old gasket material .
#38
Racer
Thread Starter
Almost done~
I'm getting pretty close to being done..
I took these pictures after lunch today..
Since I took these, I have run the wiring, installed the cap/rotor, hooked up the vacuum lines, reinstalled the MAF and air filter unit, and installed the little oil caps on each rocker so I can adjust them while the car is running..
I hooked up the battery, turned the key to on and checked for fuel leaks at the rail connections. Seeing (and smelling) none, I topped off the coolant and power steering fluid, said a little prayer and turned the key.
Cranked for about 4 seconds and fired right up
I adjusted the valves and let the car idle till the thermostat opened..topped off the coolant again and put the cap on.
So, that's where I'm at.. I'm going to pull the belt off, back off the alt bolt, and move the AC compressor/bracket so I can get my freshly powder coated valve covers back on without damaging them..
Then some final reassembly and I'm ready for a test drive.. car seems to run real smooth..can't wait to get on it and make sure everything is good to go!
I took these pictures after lunch today..
Since I took these, I have run the wiring, installed the cap/rotor, hooked up the vacuum lines, reinstalled the MAF and air filter unit, and installed the little oil caps on each rocker so I can adjust them while the car is running..
I hooked up the battery, turned the key to on and checked for fuel leaks at the rail connections. Seeing (and smelling) none, I topped off the coolant and power steering fluid, said a little prayer and turned the key.
Cranked for about 4 seconds and fired right up
I adjusted the valves and let the car idle till the thermostat opened..topped off the coolant again and put the cap on.
So, that's where I'm at.. I'm going to pull the belt off, back off the alt bolt, and move the AC compressor/bracket so I can get my freshly powder coated valve covers back on without damaging them..
Then some final reassembly and I'm ready for a test drive.. car seems to run real smooth..can't wait to get on it and make sure everything is good to go!
#39
Team Owner
Member Since: May 2002
Location: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
16 Posts
Not bad for a first try! The intake looks great. Nothing better than a clean motor. Why did you adjust the valvetrain? New springs? I didn't see it in the post.
I noticed you got the allen bolt kit on there too.
I noticed you got the allen bolt kit on there too.
#40
Racer
Thread Starter
Why adjust..?? Because I was an idiot and 'adjusted' the loose ones after the car had been sitting for a couple weeks (completely forgetting the hydraulic lifters might loose some pressure and cause the rockers to get a little play)
No biggie.. the car runs really smooth and quiet now so it was worth it.
I just got in from getting the drivers side valve cover on and tidying up the wiring on that side.. looks AWESOME
I am so glad I took the time to take everything I could off the engine and clean/polish/powdercoat.. it really looks great now.
I'm going to do a before/after post once I get it wrapped up..