I continue to loose pressure. Fluid will drop just below the full line & loose enough pressure to make shifting difficult. I have no visible leaks anywhere. I've inspected my master cylinder( just ordered another one just in case) cleaned around bellhousing, put paper on the floor to spot the smallest of leaks but nothing. Any idea's where the air is coming from?

The clutch doesn't slip at all when clutch is working properly.

Thanks for the help!

 

I would bet the problem is with the slave, not the master.

 

I had the same problem. Check behind the carpet, under the pedals. Mine was soaking wet. If the fluid in the reservoir is black, the seals in the master are probably shot. This can send particulate down to the slave and cause wear on the slave. My 90 had cylinders were connected with a line that had a rubberized section in the middle. this can also deteriorate. @ 100k, I had to replace all three parts. easy job. The later year slaves and lines (I think '92+ C4's) will work. The lines are nice too - braided SST. I tried to make my own line, but the 10 mm fittings aren't available and many shops didn't want to have anything to do with DOT3 compliant lines (liability reasons - even when I told them it was for a hydrolic clutch, not brakes). Sorry for the rambling...also, check www.ZFDOC.com for recent manufacturing problems of new components.

 

I'll check behind the pedals in a minute. The fluid is rather dark. I'll also order a kit for the slave & go ahead & repair it while I'm at it. I'm no where near a 100k miles, just turned over 63k; but I guess sitting in the garage can take it's toll.

My master should arrive Tuesday,I'll Update when I get everything back together.

 

I just thought of 3 more things...

1) spring for the GM hydrolic clutch fluid (P/N 12345347). It is DOT3 with some friction modifiers that will help keep the clutch hydrolics operating smoother and quieter.

2) Look behind the carpet, stick your hand between the carpet and firewall. The carpet has a rubberized backing, so the fluid may not seap through to the front side of the carpet.

3) I bled my system with the slave unbolted from the bell housing due to a lack of wrench clearance for the bleeder. This caused the rubber boot and pushrod to come out of the slave as the piston exceeded the travel of the boot. I don't think there is any worry here b/c the hydrolic side is still sealed. The boot and pushrod are only held in by a simple retaining ring. I feel like it is more important for the boot to seal to the piston side to keep debri out of the slave, so I unhooked the boot from tip of the push rod end. This allows the pison to travel to the snap ring EOT position without detatching the boot and pushrod.

I hope all goes well. It took me some time and research to be comfortable with my work. In the end, I realized it wasn't a big deal.

If anyone has figured out how to bleed w/ everthing installed, please let me know. I feel like there is a better way than how I did it.