intake tq specs
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
I always use 35 ft./lbs with anti-seize on the threads.
I also dimple both China walls and the underside of the intake (both front and rear) with a nail set.
I then apply a 3/8" bead of sensor safe silicone on the China walls and, with my finger, apply a very thin layer around all the ports, both intake and coolant.
I re-torque the bolts several times until they hold the torque setting. As the gaskets take a set, the torque on the bolts loosen, so re-torquing is needed.
Hope this helps.
Jake
I also dimple both China walls and the underside of the intake (both front and rear) with a nail set.
I then apply a 3/8" bead of sensor safe silicone on the China walls and, with my finger, apply a very thin layer around all the ports, both intake and coolant.
I re-torque the bolts several times until they hold the torque setting. As the gaskets take a set, the torque on the bolts loosen, so re-torquing is needed.
Hope this helps.
Jake
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
My '88 FSM recommends to:
1) snug the 4 center bolts and the two RR bolts
2) torque all the bolts to 35 lb-ft in the sequence:
2 LF, 2LM, 2LR, 2RF, 2RM, 2RR
Indeed, after all are torqued to spec I retorque and walk away for >24hrs to allow the RTV to fully cure and adhere to all surfaces.
Then I return, retorque the base bols and begin install the other intake components.
1) snug the 4 center bolts and the two RR bolts
2) torque all the bolts to 35 lb-ft in the sequence:
2 LF, 2LM, 2LR, 2RF, 2RM, 2RR
Indeed, after all are torqued to spec I retorque and walk away for >24hrs to allow the RTV to fully cure and adhere to all surfaces.
Then I return, retorque the base bols and begin install the other intake components.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,598
Likes: 0
From: indianapolis indiana
thanks guys...sure makes me appreciate the ls2 intake!!! kinda sucks i did all this work to pull intake to find oil allover the brass tube assembly coming off the back of the block. whoever worked on it last time didn't put enough thread dope to get it tight when it was in the right position. i pretty much sis all this for nothing
Last edited by excessive81; Apr 2, 2007 at 10:05 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,598
Likes: 0
From: indianapolis indiana
yeah i did guy but good for future refrence...thanks. nayone know what that brass piece is coming off the back of the bloock with the 2 sensors. weird spot surprised guys are not breacking them off actualy!
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
The other one is shorter, has a hex feature for tightening it and it's for - my mind just went blank of what it's for, let me chew on it a while. It'll come to me.
I'm sure someone else will chime in on that one bwfore my brain kicks back in gear. The game of "One UpsManShip" never ends. LOL
Jake
P.S.: I just awakened from a sound sleep and had the terrible feeling that the above info isn't correct. I was going from memory - and it hasn't been working too well for me lately.
Could be that the bulb shaped "gizmo" is the oil pressure sender for the dash oil pressure gauge and that's its only function. Then the other hex headed unit is what energizes the fuel pump.
Somebody please straighten me out on this so I can go back to sleep.
Jake
Last edited by JAKE; Apr 4, 2007 at 04:19 AM. Reason: Added Post Script
