What could possibly be wrong with this cooling system???????
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,257
Likes: 4
From: North Carolina
What could possibly be wrong with this cooling system???????
Hey guys,
I am still having problems with my cooling system!
I really don't know what could be wrong at this point. A few months back when I bought my 89 I flushed the cooling system, replaced the 200*F thermostat with a 180*F stat and replaced the coolant. The water neck is properly tightened. This past week I bought a 180*F Derale fan switch, and installed a new pressure release radiator cap. I don't know what the heck could be wrong with the cooling system but its driving me nuts. After 2 months,.. the low coolant light is still coming off and on intermittently yet when I check the coolant both the radiator and overflow are FULL! The car also runs at a consistent 168*F-170*F even though I have a 180*F thermostat in the car???? I feel like it must be leaking or something yet there is no coolant in the engine compartment of the car,... on the floor of the car,... or under the car. I even went as far as to inspect the oil which is actually very clean. What could be wrong with this system? Why is the thing running so cold even though I have a 180*F thermostat in it? Why is the low coolant light still flickering 2 months and 3500 miles past the drain and fill?
I can't figure this one out? Any ideas???
DG
I am still having problems with my cooling system!
I really don't know what could be wrong at this point. A few months back when I bought my 89 I flushed the cooling system, replaced the 200*F thermostat with a 180*F stat and replaced the coolant. The water neck is properly tightened. This past week I bought a 180*F Derale fan switch, and installed a new pressure release radiator cap. I don't know what the heck could be wrong with the cooling system but its driving me nuts. After 2 months,.. the low coolant light is still coming off and on intermittently yet when I check the coolant both the radiator and overflow are FULL! The car also runs at a consistent 168*F-170*F even though I have a 180*F thermostat in the car???? I feel like it must be leaking or something yet there is no coolant in the engine compartment of the car,... on the floor of the car,... or under the car. I even went as far as to inspect the oil which is actually very clean. What could be wrong with this system? Why is the thing running so cold even though I have a 180*F thermostat in it? Why is the low coolant light still flickering 2 months and 3500 miles past the drain and fill?I can't figure this one out? Any ideas???
DG
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,395
Likes: 393
From: Lakeville MI
You have air in the cooling system.
You need to "pack" the cooling system when the thermostat is open.
When car is cold, open cap 1/2 way to the unpressurized position. Run car up to 170-180 degrees or until the t-stat opens. If the low coolant light comes on, this is the time to add.
The coolant level will drop when the t-stat opens because the upper hose is full of air. Add coolant to the top of rad and recap the rad. Repeat as required on the next warm up cycle, it may take several attempts to get it completely full. Some like to rev the engine to around 2000 rpm when adding coolant as it helps to keep the t-stat open. Carry a bottle of pre-mixed coolant with you for the next week or so and top off as opportunity presents itself.
Don't open a hot pressurized radiator and in general be careful.
Also sounds like your t-stat is opening below 180 F.
You need to "pack" the cooling system when the thermostat is open.
When car is cold, open cap 1/2 way to the unpressurized position. Run car up to 170-180 degrees or until the t-stat opens. If the low coolant light comes on, this is the time to add.
The coolant level will drop when the t-stat opens because the upper hose is full of air. Add coolant to the top of rad and recap the rad. Repeat as required on the next warm up cycle, it may take several attempts to get it completely full. Some like to rev the engine to around 2000 rpm when adding coolant as it helps to keep the t-stat open. Carry a bottle of pre-mixed coolant with you for the next week or so and top off as opportunity presents itself.
Don't open a hot pressurized radiator and in general be careful.
Also sounds like your t-stat is opening below 180 F.
Last edited by tequilaboy; Apr 9, 2007 at 09:21 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 9,884
Likes: 3
From: Magnolia Mississippi
St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06-'07
Honestly, there isn't anything wrong with your cooling system. the Low coolant light could be a couple of things:
1. Bad sensor
2. Air in system, when you replaced the ther, did you burp your system. sound like you have air... Search on burping l98, ck archives, c4 tech and general sections.
? When are your fan coming on?
1. Bad sensor
2. Air in system, when you replaced the ther, did you burp your system. sound like you have air... Search on burping l98, ck archives, c4 tech and general sections.
? When are your fan coming on?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
If burping checks out, I'd next investigate the thermostat. Some types of stats will fail in the open position.
Remove yours and have a look-see. If it looks OKAY, drop it into a pot of water on the stove with a cooking thermometer in there too. Fire it up and see what temp the stat opens. It should coincide with the temp stamped on the stat.
I always used the one my ex-wife used in the kitchen, but now that she's gone her separate way, I no longer have to fuss about using it.
Hey, maybe that's why she left? If I had know that's all it would take, I'd have started using it many years earlier. Good things come in small packages. LOL
Jake
Remove yours and have a look-see. If it looks OKAY, drop it into a pot of water on the stove with a cooking thermometer in there too. Fire it up and see what temp the stat opens. It should coincide with the temp stamped on the stat.
I always used the one my ex-wife used in the kitchen, but now that she's gone her separate way, I no longer have to fuss about using it.
Hey, maybe that's why she left? If I had know that's all it would take, I'd have started using it many years earlier. Good things come in small packages. LOL
Jake
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,257
Likes: 4
From: North Carolina
I think I am going to order a new T-stat from summit... I purchased this one from autozone... it probably failed open. Lately I am dissapointed in the quality of their items. I wouldn't be surprised if it did fail.
Thanks guys,
I will burp it after the new stat............
Dan
Thanks guys,
I will burp it after the new stat............
Dan
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,257
Likes: 4
From: North Carolina
One last question... if i get a new 180*f that works correctly... is it still a good idea to use the derale fan switch I purchased? It goes on at 180*f and off at 170*F?
Dan
Jake: I agree; good things do come in small packages!...............that is............... unless........... your talking about packages?
Dan
Jake: I agree; good things do come in small packages!...............that is............... unless........... your talking about packages?
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Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 4,532
Likes: 7
From: Lahaina Hi
First off I would dump the radiator cap!!!
I would jack up the car in the front and remove the radiator cap before the engine heats up ,Idle the engine up to 1500 rpms after hot and add coolent until full ,install radiator cap and let engine cool down
I would jack up the car in the front and remove the radiator cap before the engine heats up ,Idle the engine up to 1500 rpms after hot and add coolent until full ,install radiator cap and let engine cool down
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
One last question... if i get a new 180*f that works correctly... is it still a good idea to use the derale fan switch I purchased? It goes on at 180*f and off at 170*F?
Dan
Jake: I agree; good things do come in small packages!...............that is............... unless........... your talking about packages?
Dan
Jake: I agree; good things do come in small packages!...............that is............... unless........... your talking about packages?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,700
Likes: 298
From: Ft. Lauderdale Fl
No, get a cooler one. If your thermostat is a 180 it may fully open by 180 or start opening at 180 and finish opening even warmer. With the fans on this would make your thermostat cylce like crazy. If it were me Id go 160 so at 170 you KNOW that thing is 100% open. Youll hear different arguements on this.
Go with a 160 and you will know its open, it just opens sooner.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
From: South Haven Michigan
Also make sure all your hoses are really tight (heater hoses etc.). I had a problem on my 89 with the low coolant light coming on and it went away when I retightened all the hose clamps. I figured there was enough of a leak that when it cooled down it could not suck the coolant back out of the overflow tank. I never saw any antifreeze either or smelled it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,753
Likes: 9
From: Louisiana
You either have air in the cooling system, or a faulty "low coolant" sensor, connection, or wiring. The tip of the sensor could also be dirty. I would not worry about the t-stat. I have a 180* in my 86, and when driving above 35 mph, my temp stays in the mid 170's.
Going with a higher or lower degree t-stat is anyone's opinion. Each person either thinks it's better to run a lower t-stat or either has a reason.
Going with a higher or lower degree t-stat is anyone's opinion. Each person either thinks it's better to run a lower t-stat or either has a reason.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,257
Likes: 4
From: North Carolina
I will have to isolate these two problems...
I want to replace the T-stat again... or at least check it... it was one of the $4 ones from autozone... only thing I could get my hands on at the time. Who makes a good one?
Secondly I will look at the sensor, it could be faulty. Is it possible to clean it and if so, how?
After thats done I will get the front end up in the air and burp the system...
Dan
I want to replace the T-stat again... or at least check it... it was one of the $4 ones from autozone... only thing I could get my hands on at the time. Who makes a good one?
Secondly I will look at the sensor, it could be faulty. Is it possible to clean it and if so, how?
After thats done I will get the front end up in the air and burp the system...
Dan
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 20,179
Likes: 673
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
The low coolant sensor has a history of being problematic. I have added a ground wire spade that is used to connect the sensor connector when the sensor starts sending false information.
I also drill a 3/16 hole in the new t-stat base to assist with purging air.
I also drill a 3/16 hole in the new t-stat base to assist with purging air.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 918
Likes: 5
From: Gainesville FL
This is a slick tool my friend let me borrow and I've since bought my own:
http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1...fill_adap.html
When the funnel is filled, the liquid level is higher than any point on the motor, so all the air is pushed out. Having a small relief hole in the T-stat makes it quicker.
http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1...fill_adap.html
When the funnel is filled, the liquid level is higher than any point on the motor, so all the air is pushed out. Having a small relief hole in the T-stat makes it quicker.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
I'm in total agreement on the hole drilling. I've got one drilled for summer weather and another for winter.
Jake
Instructor
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 180
Likes: 23
From: CAPE CORAL FLORIDA
coolant light
had same problem with low coolant light comming on and off on my 1988 corvette.
i pulled the connect apart, cleaned the blade on the sensor and the female end with electical cleaner. never had problem again, that was about 4 years ago.
i pulled the connect apart, cleaned the blade on the sensor and the female end with electical cleaner. never had problem again, that was about 4 years ago.