84 Electrical Fault "Fuse pops"
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
You have the procedure correct, but you drew the wrong conclusion. If the ohmmeter reads zero. there is no resistance (0 ohms) between the pin 20 connection and ground. That would be because with the ignition "On", the ECM turns on the "Check Engine" light. The ignition switch provides power to the bulb and the ECM grounds the other side, completing the circuit.
However, back up a few steps. Did you understand what I said about how you were hooking up your test light for test 1 in Chart A-1? I really think you have conducted that test incorrectly.
RACE ON!!!
However, back up a few steps. Did you understand what I said about how you were hooking up your test light for test 1 in Chart A-1? I really think you have conducted that test incorrectly.
RACE ON!!!
Is that not right?
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
I've just had another look and think i may have got this test wrong...what i believe test 1 is saying now is to to introduce a seperate 12v feed onto pin20 and see if the test light comes on... If this it the way it should have been done then the internal switch should go to ground and light the lamp.......will let you know.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by SG84vette
You have me thinking now....when i was using the test light i was back probing pin20 with ignition on, engine stopped and the other end of test light was going to a seperate earth.
Is that not right?
Is that not right?
Originally Posted by SG84vette
I've just had another look and think i may have got this test wrong...what i believe test 1 is saying now is to to introduce a seperate 12v feed onto pin20 and see if the test light comes on... If this it the way it should have been done then the internal switch should go to ground and light the lamp.......
Redo test #1 and then follow the chart as directed. Based on what you've said, I think you're going to be looking at a new (re-con) ECM. Please let me know how this works out.
RACE ON!!!
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Yes. That is not right.
Close. What test 1 is saying, is to connect your test light to 12 volts ("Back probe white ECM connector pin 20 CKT 419 with a test light to 12 volts") and then probe the connector. This isn't a test to see if the check engine light comes on, it is a test to see if the ECM is grounding circuit# 419. If the test light comes on, that shows that the ECM has grounded the circuit. If not, you continue down the other side of the chart, that you've ignored, because the test was done incorrectly. You got a dim test light when the test light was hooked to ground, because the ignition switch 12 volts was going through the "Check Engine" light bulb before it got to the test light. The "Check Engine" light came on for the first time because, except for through the test light, the "CE" light had no ground.
Redo test #1 and then follow the chart as directed. Based on what you've said, I think you're going to be looking at a new (re-con) ECM. Please let me know how this works out.
RACE ON!!!
Close. What test 1 is saying, is to connect your test light to 12 volts ("Back probe white ECM connector pin 20 CKT 419 with a test light to 12 volts") and then probe the connector. This isn't a test to see if the check engine light comes on, it is a test to see if the ECM is grounding circuit# 419. If the test light comes on, that shows that the ECM has grounded the circuit. If not, you continue down the other side of the chart, that you've ignored, because the test was done incorrectly. You got a dim test light when the test light was hooked to ground, because the ignition switch 12 volts was going through the "Check Engine" light bulb before it got to the test light. The "Check Engine" light came on for the first time because, except for through the test light, the "CE" light had no ground.
Redo test #1 and then follow the chart as directed. Based on what you've said, I think you're going to be looking at a new (re-con) ECM. Please let me know how this works out.
RACE ON!!!
I also looked at the solenoids which it mentioned on that page...it read 0 for the Canister purge solenoid...so thats duff. The air switch has no juice to it and that solenoid shows 0 ohms also. As for the air diver solenoid thats missing! Looks like the pipe has been fabricated to go straight into the manofolds.
The ESC check s6E2-47 shows 9.5v . I have run and driven the car with the ESC removed the fuse didnt popp. Replaced it and did the same test with it connected the next day from cold and the fuse didnt pop this tine either.
What i have done is cut the wire from the Cold start module where it goes to 23 on the wht connector...If that was the culprit it wont be sending 12volts to the fuse now. what i can do is connected it again tomorrow and try again.. As with all the incidences where the fuse has popped it has been from cold .....and getting towared the running temp when the fault has showed up....
All i need now is about $600 for a recon ECM !
