More PKE Trouble........
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
From: Bellport NY
More PKE Trouble........
Well I finally took apart my dash and replaced my door chime and pke module. I was all excited when my chime was finally working. Then the pke light went on when I turned the key. Then trouble started, first my driver side door lock stopped working. Then I tried to program the key fob. I turned the key to the run position, pushed the trip odo button twice then the fuel bottom and light magic the PKE light when on. From there I turned to key to the lock position and the PKE light went out, no flashing. Brought the fob into range and like I thought nothing happened. So I ran the PKE codes and got code 14. I replaced the battery on the fob and still nothing.
The strangest thing is that once in a while I walk away from the car and the horn beeps and the alarm arms but the locks do not lock. Still fob doesn't work. Someone please help me!!!!
The strangest thing is that once in a while I walk away from the car and the horn beeps and the alarm arms but the locks do not lock. Still fob doesn't work. Someone please help me!!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 66
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Ok, #14 is this:
DTC #14: Non-Valid Transmitter Received
That means it sees the transmitter and its not valid. Which means you need to program it so it is valid.
If you cant get the programing to work, yet the car automatically arms the security when you walk away, id say something isnt connected cleanly.
What code do you get if you take the fob out of range?
DTC #12: Receiver Memory Bad
DTC #13: Transmitter Not in Range
DTC #14: Non-Valid Transmitter Received
DTC #15: Valid Transmitter Received
DTC #16: Passenger Door Button Depressed
DTC #17: Hatch Button Depressed
DTC #14: Non-Valid Transmitter Received
That means it sees the transmitter and its not valid. Which means you need to program it so it is valid.
If you cant get the programing to work, yet the car automatically arms the security when you walk away, id say something isnt connected cleanly.
What code do you get if you take the fob out of range?
DTC #12: Receiver Memory Bad
DTC #13: Transmitter Not in Range
DTC #14: Non-Valid Transmitter Received
DTC #15: Valid Transmitter Received
DTC #16: Passenger Door Button Depressed
DTC #17: Hatch Button Depressed
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 66
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Good that means its working, program the fob and it should work. If it wont program we will have to go through step by step exactly what youre doing when youre trying to program this thing 
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
From: Bellport NY
Step 1: Key in the ignition to "run" (Fob in the house)
Step 2: Push the trip/odo button
Step 3: Push and hold the trip/odo button again
Step 4: Push and hold the fuel info button (light goes on)
Step 5: Turn the key to "off" (light goes off, on blinking)
Step 6: Bring fob into range (nothing)
What I don't get is why does step 5 happen? Also why would my alarm arm and horn beep when I turn the car off and walk out of range?
Step 2: Push the trip/odo button
Step 3: Push and hold the trip/odo button again
Step 4: Push and hold the fuel info button (light goes on)
Step 5: Turn the key to "off" (light goes off, on blinking)
Step 6: Bring fob into range (nothing)
What I don't get is why does step 5 happen? Also why would my alarm arm and horn beep when I turn the car off and walk out of range?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
From: Bellport NY
Update: I programmed the pad to the car. (YES) The driver side door lock doesn't work. (But if I manually lock the door the pad will open it) The switch will only unlock the passenger side door. Passenger works with the pad and switch. Also the hatch bottom works on the pad too. Another thing is that when the alarm arms the horn sounds alittle weak (battery is good) and the door do not lock you can hear the motor but it wont lock. So i've made alittle progress. Why doesn't the driver side door lock work? And why when the alarm arms the door not lock even though they look like they tired too? Thanks for all the help so far.
Last edited by 94blue6spd; Apr 11, 2007 at 05:48 PM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 66
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Ok, the system is working perfectly fine by the sound of it mate, the door lock regulator on the driver side probably has striped gears. Unless youre saying its trying to unlock its self instead of locking.
As for the horn, youll have to check under the bonnet when the horn is going to see which horn unit isnt working, there is one on each side. If one isnt working, check the connections and wiring to the horn unit, and also check the horn relay.
If you use the electric locking switch on the door (next to the door lock) does your driver side door lock then? Does it sound abit like striped gears? The regulator unit has gears in it to drive the shaft that actuates the locks.
As for the horn, youll have to check under the bonnet when the horn is going to see which horn unit isnt working, there is one on each side. If one isnt working, check the connections and wiring to the horn unit, and also check the horn relay.
If you use the electric locking switch on the door (next to the door lock) does your driver side door lock then? Does it sound abit like striped gears? The regulator unit has gears in it to drive the shaft that actuates the locks.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,629
Likes: 28
From: FL
I believe the part Casey is referring to is called a lock actuator or solenoid, the right side lock on my 93 acted similar, I replaced it with this part number 22049686, not sure if they are the same on both sides so be sure to verify. When you have the door panel off lubricate all linkage pivot points and the latch itself with WD40, sometimes that alone will take care of the problem if the actuator isn't completely toast. Good luck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 66
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Wonder what the difference is there? I know my 87 had totally different units to the 94, they even sounded very different. I certainly wouldnt venture to say the later ones are any more reliable though.... 
GM central locking components from the 80s and 90s are sh*t the world over in my opinion, im yet to see any on any GM car that will reliably go the distance regardless of how often they are or are not used...
GM central locking components from the 80s and 90s are sh*t the world over in my opinion, im yet to see any on any GM car that will reliably go the distance regardless of how often they are or are not used...
Last edited by Casethecorvetteman; Apr 12, 2007 at 11:49 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 66
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Yeah? Ill be damned eh? Maybe that is why they are no more reliable. Probably got better but cheaper quality at the same time.
I dont know, but ive never seen a vacuum powered central locking setup fail on a Mercedes Benz!!!
I dont know, but ive never seen a vacuum powered central locking setup fail on a Mercedes Benz!!!
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,629
Likes: 28
From: FL
Well Casey maybe Mercedes can make it work but Chrysler never made anything reliable that was vacuum operated! Not sure the other American manufacturers had any more success? Didn't some C3's have a vacuum operated wiper cover mechanism?
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 66
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA