When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by Tom Piper
I had heard there was a difference in the distance between the engine and the accessory belt, must be the damper and not the hub that does it.
I don't see how you could get the later, '95 and up, Opti-Spark off with a round flange -- my '92 has been converted to a '95 Opti-Spark.
Tom Piper
You have to have the three-way turned just so to get the later opti out. I can't imagine how you'd do it without the open spaces. The early opti has a smaller base so perhaps it's not an issue with them.
Golen Engine Service will broach a factory hub for $75. I have a 96 and I have already purchased a 95 timing cover and hub as I plan to remove the unnecessary misfire detection setup when I do my cam swap. I plan to send out my hub to Golen to be broached.
From Golen's site:
LT1 Crank Hub Modification:
The stock LT1 crank hub is not cut for a crank key from the factory. If you are purchasing a Golen High Performance LT1 engine it is highly recommended that you have your stock LT1 crank hub broached to accept the crankshaft key. We install the crankshaft key in every LT1 engine that we sell and we offer a broaching service where you can send your stock LT1 crank hub to us and we will broach it for $75 plus return shipping.
Golen Engine Service will broach a factory hub for $75. I have a 96 and I have already purchased a 95 timing cover and hub as I plan to remove the unnecessary misfire detection setup when I do my cam swap. I plan to send out my hub to Golen to be broached.
From Golen's site:
LT1 Crank Hub Modification:
The stock LT1 crank hub is not cut for a crank key from the factory. If you are purchasing a Golen High Performance LT1 engine it is highly recommended that you have your stock LT1 crank hub broached to accept the crankshaft key. We install the crankshaft key in every LT1 engine that we sell and we offer a broaching service where you can send your stock LT1 crank hub to us and we will broach it for $75 plus return shipping.
Very good idea, but I would have to buy a new hub first and then send it to be broached.
I won't put money into my existing hub that already has a sleeve on it -- it just doesn't make sense.
Golen Engine Service will broach a factory hub for $75. I have a 96 and I have already purchased a 95 timing cover and hub as I plan to remove the unnecessary misfire detection setup when I do my cam swap. I plan to send out my hub to Golen to be broached.
From Golen's site:
LT1 Crank Hub Modification:
The stock LT1 crank hub is not cut for a crank key from the factory. If you are purchasing a Golen High Performance LT1 engine it is highly recommended that you have your stock LT1 crank hub broached to accept the crankshaft key. We install the crankshaft key in every LT1 engine that we sell and we offer a broaching service where you can send your stock LT1 crank hub to us and we will broach it for $75 plus return shipping.
The more I think about this, the better it sounds.
I don't have a good '95 hub to send them for broaching -- which is what I need.
But, I do have a like new '96 hub I am wondering if they would take it in a trade.
At this time, the stock hub is not available from GM.
If you try to order one, the reply is it is on hold because of QA purposes with no date available given.
Thunder Racing does not have the keyed stock hubs anymore either.
They have a keyed after-market unit with the round flange.
The C4 is going the way my C2 did -- for a few years, almost everthing was discontinued.
But, for the C2, you now can buy one in pieces and assemble it yourself (I think the birdcage is the only thing not being produced).
You can even buy new frames made with the original tooling for about $5K.
Pioneer heyed hub, part number 872015
Fits: 92-95 LT1 Corvette & 93-95 LT1 F-body.
It is brand new in the original box. Never used, never even unwrapped. It has a round hub with 6 holes.
Pioneer heyed hub, part number 872015
Fits: 92-95 LT1 Corvette & 93-95 LT1 F-body.
It is brand new in the original box. Never used, never even unwrapped. It has a round hub with 6 holes.
PM me if interested
I just bought that exact same Pioneer part from Thunder Racing for $94 shipped -- it will arrive today.
I just bought that exact same Pioneer part from Thunder Racing for $94 shipped -- it will arrive today.
Thanks
Tom Piper
I just received the after-market hub.
It looks like a quality piece; I compared the measurements of most dimensions with the original hub with dial-calipers and a micrometer.
It is universal with a round flange, it comes with a roll-pin that I had to remove for my purpose.
The flange is not quite as thick as the three "ears" on the original hub.
So, the back of the flange is not as close to the motor as the back of the three "ears." And, that makes me wonder if the Opti-Spark could be removed without removing the hub.
Sounds just like the one from Jegs. I also had to remove a roll pin that I had no use for. As a matter of fact it was $90 to the door. They probally both come from the same manufacturer.
I have the new after-market keyed hub on my '92 and running with the LT4 dual-mass damper.
From what I see, it is working fine.
Because the round flange is not quite as thick as the three "ears" on the stock hub, it might be possible to remove the Opti-Spark without pulling the hub.
Even if the hub is in the way, I think it would only have to be moved about 1/4" instead of pulling it completely.
And, since I have the Kent-Moore tool, it would be a walk-in-the-park anyway.