Replace valve covers on an '88
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Replace valve covers on an '88
Hey everybody,
I just bought some spiffy new aluminum valve covers for my 88 coupe. Before I tear into the task of replacing the stock ones, I was wondering if there were any 'gotcha's' to be aware of. I have replaced covers before on other vehicles, but not on this engine with center bolt covers. I checked with a local shop about doing the job and they quoted my between 7 - 8 hours' labor! This got me to wondering if this is a really huge job or what.
Any input or thoughts would be appreciated!
I just bought some spiffy new aluminum valve covers for my 88 coupe. Before I tear into the task of replacing the stock ones, I was wondering if there were any 'gotcha's' to be aware of. I have replaced covers before on other vehicles, but not on this engine with center bolt covers. I checked with a local shop about doing the job and they quoted my between 7 - 8 hours' labor! This got me to wondering if this is a really huge job or what.
Any input or thoughts would be appreciated!
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,961
Likes: 707
From: WI
It's going to be a big job. I think you will have to remove the runners to get the passenger side off. The EGR has to be removed. The A/C unbolted on the passenger side. There is a heavy bundle of wires on the top of the V/C's that has to be moved and flipped upward. I repainted the stock covers on mine when I changed the intake. If you are going to work on the car a lot you may want to do the coolant bypass, delete the air and EGR systems, notch the A/C bracket to remove the V/C easier, and you'll need new gaskets.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 857
Likes: 1
From: Morrisonville Illinios
No big problem! Just some time but not 7-8 hrs! My 16yr old son can get it done in less than an hour now if that tells you anything. the runners DO NOT have to come off. you may have to gently lift the wiring out of the way for the injsctors on both side and the ac compressor and may be the alternator un bolted just look well and take your time. First thing is get you a FSM, then to wash it down and get it cleaned up before you start to unbolt (clean engine! happy engine! can also tell you when things are leaking). When you get to the new vlave covers and gaskets we found it to our advantage to use some 3M weatherstrip cemment and glue them in place on the new covers and some cloths pins to hold them in place while drying. Do this first be for you start to unbolt and they will be ready when you are ready to put them back on. Just take your time 
Good luck WRO87
Good luck WRO87
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
When I did mine I had to:
-unplug the injectors & move the harness
-move the alt & PS forward or move the wiper motor
-remove the EGR pipe
-move the A/C compressor & AIR and brackets forward
I can't recall if I had to remove the runners, but maybe. If so this will really add time to the job.
Also, you should blow air along the intake base to avoid getting dirt into the heads as you pull the VCs.
Indeed, for the cost the FSM and a few tools you can save a bundle by doing this job yourself. I really do NOT think it's a 1hr job, not the first time anyhow.
-unplug the injectors & move the harness
-move the alt & PS forward or move the wiper motor
-remove the EGR pipe
-move the A/C compressor & AIR and brackets forward
I can't recall if I had to remove the runners, but maybe. If so this will really add time to the job.
Also, you should blow air along the intake base to avoid getting dirt into the heads as you pull the VCs.
Indeed, for the cost the FSM and a few tools you can save a bundle by doing this job yourself. I really do NOT think it's a 1hr job, not the first time anyhow.
