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I am replacing my Bilstein rear shocks with standard Bilsteins on my '96 LT1. The Helm manual says to "tighten the shock absorber upper bracket retaining nut to 26 N-m." If I do this, the top retaining nut compresses the upper grommet so that it spreads too flat to fit back into the hole of the frame where it mounts.
How tight is tight enough so the grommet will not spread too flat?
I believe they are referring to the bolts that secure the bracket, not the stud nut on top of the shock. Not sure of the torque but I usually
using a self locking nut, or double nut, and tighten it enough to slightly
distort the bushings. My FSM is out in the garage, I can check it in the morning if need be, let me know.
That happened to mine to, I ended up buying some poly bushings to replace that soft rubber. I did run the car fine by tightening the rubber down just so it would fit. If I remember right, it called for 20 ft/lbs.
Thanks for the responses. The Helms manual recommends the top stud nut be tightened to 26 N-m (19 ft-lb). Right now I have the self locking nut tightened so that about 9/16" of the end threads showing. The grommets are compressed, for sure, but just fit into the body frame hole. Ya think it's good enough to stay put?
Thanks for the responses. The Helms manual recommends the top stud nut be tightened to 26 N-m (19 ft-lb). Right now I have the self locking nut tightened so that about 9/16" of the end threads showing. The grommets are compressed, for sure, but just fit into the body frame hole. Ya think it's good enough to stay put?
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
Originally Posted by Gmans96Coupe
Thanks for the responses. The Helms manual recommends the top stud nut be tightened to 26 N-m (19 ft-lb). Right now I have the self locking nut tightened so that about 9/16" of the end threads showing. The grommets are compressed, for sure, but just fit into the body frame hole. Ya think it's good enough to stay put?
That will be fine. Check them in a few weeks to make sure they aren't backing off.
Thanks for the responses. The Helms manual recommends the top stud nut be tightened to 26 N-m (19 ft-lb). Right now I have the self locking nut tightened so that about 9/16" of the end threads showing. The grommets are compressed, for sure, but just fit into the body frame hole. Ya think it's good enough to stay put?
That is what I did, it's been fine for a year and hundreds of track miles. I will be putting poly in shortly, and will let you know if it's loosened any.
I may be exposing myself a bit here... but how does one measure torque in the first place, when the shock stud needs to be retained during tightening with a hex key in the end? Is there a different style of torque wrench that is suitable in this case?
I ended up just following the type of advice that has been given here instead of asking around and then buying another tool.
No troubles. Changing yours soon? The Z51 shock comes with poly mounts, the standand does not. I ended up ordering poly to replace the rubber.
Did the swap a few weeks ago already. Searches turned up at least a few other threads here where the 19 ft-lb appeared to compress the rubber too much, so I decided that it would be OK to go by feel. I'm pretty sure that I got to at least 19 ft-lb, and the grommets showed just a slight bulge. One worry I had was that overcompression may cause premature wear.
BTW, my Bilstien Z-51 (or Sport as ordered via aftermarket) shocks came with rubber mounts, not poly. I'm sure I recieved the correct Bilstien part numbers, as I checked incessantly before my order.
Did the swap a few weeks ago already. Searches turned up at least a few other threads here where the 19 ft-lb appeared to compress the rubber too much, so I decided that it would be OK to go by feel. I'm pretty sure that I got to at least 19 ft-lb, and the grommets showed just a slight bulge. One worry I had was that overcompression may cause premature wear.
BTW, my Bilstien Z-51 (or Sport as ordered via aftermarket) shocks came with rubber mounts, not poly. I'm sure I recieved the correct Bilstien part numbers, as I checked incessantly before my order.
Ahh I read that wrong, having them revalved for track use gets the poly. There was a thread here:
That is what I did, it's been fine for a year and hundreds of track miles. I will be putting poly in shortly, and will let you know if it's loosened any.
Both rears are replaced with new standard Bilsteins now. By compressing the upper grommet to slightly less than the upper washer diameter it left about 9/16" of thread exposed. This seemed to match exactly the OEM Bilsteins I replaced. Runs and drives great again. Thanks for the comments.