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1986 coupe...sorry, haven't had a chance to update my profile since i just got the car a couple weeks ago.
The alternator quit charging, so I picked up a new one and a new belt. Seems to work fine at idle and low rpm, showing 13.5-14.0V. But with a load, such as cruising down the highway, the voltage quickly falls to 11.5 or so and then begins dropping down.
Went to a parts store with a buddy one time to pick up a rebuilt alternator for his car. Took it out of the box and went to spin the shaft and it was locked up.
Wow, that's pretty bad. This one looked ok, but just wouldn't charge above about 1200rpm....even tested ok on the car. Off the car on their test stand, it failed all of the tests.
I rebuilt an alternator for a guy once, and same thing, idle to 1000 rpm, it was great, anything over that, .....zip......back to battery voltage.
All I had to do was tighten the nut on the pulley, and Zing!!!! 14.2 V all the way to 5500 RPM
I rebuilt an alternator for a guy once, and same thing, idle to 1000 rpm, it was great, anything over that, .....zip......back to battery voltage.
All I had to do was tighten the nut on the pulley, and Zing!!!! 14.2 V all the way to 5500 RPM remember, there's no keyway for the pulley
I rebuilt an alternator for a guy once, and same thing, idle to 1000 rpm, it was great, anything over that, .....zip......back to battery voltage.
All I had to do was tighten the nut on the pulley, and Zing!!!! 14.2 V all the way to 5500 RPM remember, there's no keyway for the pulley
Didn't even occur to me to think about that. I was along those lines thinking the belt was slipping, but I didn't even think about that pulley not being on tight.
Definately good to know for the next time. It's just too bad you can't count on a manufacturer to do something simple like tighten down a nut. Makes you wonder what else they forgot to do with the rebuild.