Quote:
Originally Posted by HVAC-Dave
Hey Guys, thanx for your imput...I think Iwill go Dynaspark or MSD for sure now. I agree about about adding a later year model w/ all the mods needed .

Well guys, let me tell ya...this job was no walk in the park..I had a injury at work which has also slowed me down. Here's where I'm at...removed all part down to crankcase hub, all done without removing anything I though I could work around..i.e. left the steering dampner on, tranny cooler, etc. I got the crankcase dampner off, but am kinda stuck on the hub. I'm afraid of damaging the threads in the crank, and have tryed several times by adding a washer, etc. into the space. Once I get my puller in, you can't see whats going on, off-center, etc. I think if i drill a starter hole in the crankbolt, it may do the trick. I did get a MSD timing opti, new waterpump, temp. sensor, gaskets ,etc. I got a new timing cover as well, with all new seals, etc. It's just down to removing the hub that's holding me up. Any suggestions?
Summers closing in on me, and I need to finish this work. Thanxs in advance, have a great day...Save the Wave ~~~~

 

I am a bit confused with the explanation, but the hub does not need to be removed for Opti replacement. Only the pully/dampner needs to come off.

 

If you got the damper off you should be able to remove the 3 bolts holding the opti on and it should pop right off.

Ahh - RIF, you have a new timing cover gasket you want to put on! You do need to pull the hub for that. IIRC there is a specail tool to remove it, a regular puller doesn't work.
Any reason you think you need to change it? On my 92 w 95K miles I didn't need to replace it. I had some loose timing cover bolts I tightened up. I did have to replace the timing cover oil seal for the opti, that was pretty easy though.

 

Like posted before, if you are just replacing the Opti, you don't need to remove the hub, just the damper. However If you are wanting to replace the crank seal and/or the timing cover gasket, yes you will need the special puller. Kent-Moore #39046 LT-1 hub puller. I found one on Ebay, not cheap but man does it make pulling (and reinstalling) that hub a simple task. Wish you lived closer you could use mine.

 

Whoops, myBad....I didn't read the part where he got a new timing cover.....

 

Guys, I did alot of reading on the hub problem I was having...I was pushing against the hub instead of the crank. I did what they said, just re-install the crank bolt a few turns, and she came off with a 3/8 drive.
I was ready to spring for the $225.00 puller, but now, I'm happliy back on the right track. Thanks to all you guys who responded to my problem. I appriciate the advise / suggestions.
The internet is a great thing these days. It helps to be in touch with people that are into our hobby.... Vettes!

 

I am having the same problem with my ’92. What do you mean by “re-install” the crank bolt a few turns”? Can you be more specific on how to get the hub off without a puller? I will have to take it off to replace the timing cover gasket. I don’t have the damper off yet either. I am confused by the tips. It has been stated that you can get underneath with a bar but the damper is over the crossmember and it looks like there is no access from underneath.
Thanks for your help.

 

The damper can be removed without a puller. The damper hub cannot.

The hub must be removed to replace the crank seal, timing chain cover gasket, and/or timing gear/chain set. It need not be removed to replace the Opti, Opti drive shaft seal, or water pump drive shaft seal.

Here's how to remove the damper:

1. Raise the front of the vehicle enough that you can get under the car (it's also helpful to have it at a more comfortable height while you're working from above).

2. Remove the three bolts that secure the pulley/damper to the hub.

3. Mark the damper and hub so that you can easily see how to realign them to each other later.

4. Slide under the car with a long pry bar or hardwood dowel (I use a jumbo Snap-On screwdriver that's around two feet long) and a mallet.

5. Place the tip of the pry bar against the rear face of the damper, as close to the hub as possible (Ideally rest the tip alongside of the hub).

6 Give the pry bar a few whacks with the mallet, and with any luck the damper will pop off without too much of a fight.

You may find it helpful to apply a few whacks, then rotate the crankshaft in 120* increments, whacking it a few times at each interval (I haven't needed to do this).

It's also helpful to, if possible, shoot a bit of penetrating oil where the damper meets the hub, a day or more in advance of doing the job.

After you get the damper off, clean the damper/hub mating surfaces to remove all corrosion, etc, and apply a very thin coating of anti-sieze compound to these surfaces before you reassmble the damper to the hub. This should make it a lot easier to get the damper off next time.

Once the damper is removed, rotate the crankshaft so that one wing of the damper hub is at the six-o'clock position. This will position the other two wings at around the ten- and two-o'clock positions. In this orientation, the Opti will clear the hub as it is being removed/installed.

Does this help?

Be well,

SJW

 

Thanks for your help!
Does the pry bar fit between the oil pan and the crossmember? This is the only place that I can see getting a bar.

 

Yep. Perhaps a bit offset to either side of the pan, but you've got the right idea.

Let us know how it goes.

Be well,

SJW

 

Yep, be prepared though. The damper on my 92 was well rusted on. I had a helper wack on a bar hittint the damper a few times, then rotated 90*, wacked a few times, rotated 90*. It took several rotations before the damper came off.

 

I will let you know how it goes, if I can get back in the garage from mowing grass. I will also let everyone know if the MSD solves my miss problem. (no codes and all other issues checked and/or replaced).