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So I got new wheels and tires put on this afternoon. After we lowered it down off the jacks. I got it in to start it up. The starter wouldn't budge. Everything in the car was working normal, had plenty of power, but starter was not doing anything. It also had the "Security" light on. My buddy said that his camaro did the same thing. He said to leave it alone for 10 min, as it was some kind of alarm thing and needed to reset itself. So we left it alone, and low and behold, 10 minutes later it cranked right up like normal. He said it might keep doing this, as his did, and he had to replace the ignition cylinder....does that mean the tumbler? I have turned it off and on several times since and no problems. Anyone have any insight to add to this mystery?
-Matt
From what I've been reading on the Forum, when the Security light is flashing, it's a VATS problem. The VTAS may not be de-activated (turned-off).
You may be able to use your door key to de-activate it.
My son's 96 LT1 did this once and we had to actually open the door to cause the alarm to go off, then use his key to turn the alarm off. Car started fine from then on.
Typical VATS issues (Vehicle Anti Theft System). See the little pellet on the key? It is called a chip, but is actually a resistor. If a key is inserted in the ignition without the correct resistance the starter will not engage. Do a search here on VATS and you will find tons of info.
ps--easiest possible fix (sometimes even works) is clean the key, any grease or crud on the pellet can cause a problem.
Typical VATS issues (Vehicle Anti Theft System). See the little pellet on the key? It is called a chip, but is actually a resistor. If a key is inserted in the ignition without the correct resistance the starter will not engage. Do a search here on VATS and you will find tons of info.
ps--easiest possible fix (sometimes even works) is clean the key, any grease or crud on the pellet can cause a problem.
You could have dirty or worn contacts on the resistor pellet, or the resistor sensing contacts could be worn. I would try cleaning the contacts on your key with isopropyl, or better yet try your spare key if you have one....
with the above. It sounds like a VATS problem. If you don't have a spare key, you can ohm the resistance of the pellet in the key. The find out what code # it is between 1-15. Order a new key.
Cool. I seem to have lost my spare, so I need to go about ordering a new one anyway. So to get a new one, I find the resistance of the pellet, then how do I know what number, 1-15 it is to order a new one. Do I send GM my VIN or something???
Cool. I seem to have lost my spare, so I need to go about ordering a new one anyway. So to get a new one, I find the resistance of the pellet, then how do I know what number, 1-15 it is to order a new one. Do I send GM my VIN or something???
If you order a replacement key from one of the catalogs, like Corvette Central, Eckler's, etc., what you'll get is a blank key with the correct resistance chip in it. When you receive the new key it'll be blank. Take the blank and your current key to someplace to have the new key cut.
An alternative is to take your current key to ACE Hardware and get the blank and have it cut at the same time and place.
I've had few ignition keys cut at the ACE near my home; about $20.00 My ACE has a code reader. All ACEs may not have the ignition keys with the resistor chip though.
A Chevy dealer can do it for you, but they'll cost more at any of the dealerships.. In fact, I had one cut recently at a Cadillac dealer since I am out of town now.
No problem. All you do is use an ohm meter and place one lead on one side of the pellet and the other lead on the other side of the pellet. That will give the resistance value. Use that number and match it closest to the numbers in the link. That will give you the code number. Then buy or order a key with that code number and have it cut.
Or take your VIN number and proof of ownership to a Chevy dealership and they can tell you what code number the pellet it. That is as long as the CCM has not been changed. If the CCM has been changed this method is no good.
My ACE Hardware has a code reader. They just stick the key into its slot and the code shows right up on a screen.
Then they just open a drawer, look in the little bin that has the keys with the same code, stick it in the reader to verify that the blank hadn't been mis-filed and, if it checks out, cut the blank using the original key.