Can someone tell me where they pull power from for their electric water pump on a LT1 1994...

 

On my 95 I used the battery connection on the alternator as the power source and the 12v signal from the ignition to cycle the relay. (Of course I used a fuze between the source and the relay.)

Mike

 

hi there there wilsonbh and mike!
sorry to butt in on your thread but i have just ordered a csr brand performance electric water pump and was please wandering the following you have talked about thats all!!

mike what size fuse did you use ?

was that a inline fuse type ?

what color and where is the 12 volt signal from the ignition to cycle the relay located please for me to find ?

so you mentioned the battery connection on the alternator for the power source mike,did you just hook that wire up to the alternator direct itself did you please ?

sorry for all the questions mate!
i hope you can help out here!
cheers and thanks alot!!
glen
Australia

 

To activate the relay, I and many others use the pink wire in the harness that runs forward and is attached near the top of the LH inner fender well. It also runs to the fan relays. I ran main relay power from the junction block near the battery. Battery power is fine for the relay because it won't be activated until the pink wire does so when the ignition is turned on. The fuse that comes with the Meziere is a 10 amp if I remember right. The pump pulls about 7 or 8 amps. In the 3 years and 30K miles I've had my pump installed, it's never blown a fuse. I have my air pump removed which freed up a lot of room forward of the driver's side wheel. I mounted my relay there, a double junction block for relay power and ground and also the fuse and fuse holder that came with the pump are all located there. Look in C4 tech tips, Strick has a good article there on the pump installation. His component location differs from mine but that's just preference for a given application. The wiring method he and I used is the same. Use a top quality relay, relay connector and do all of your connections well and you'll have a trouble free installation.
Also if you want a manual overide connected to a switch to run the pump w/o the ignition being on, simply run it's power wire to the same relay terminal as the pink wire goes to. That is the terminal that activates the relay. This is another reason why you may want full time battery power to the relay. But don't worry, it won't draw any power unless activated.

 

thanks corvette kid for your great help and write up!!!
cheers mate
thanks
glen
Australia

 

Good job Chris, I didn't see the question.

 

Both Chris and I installed the pumps around the same time and both of us have had nothing but excellent service from the electric coolant pumps. Follow our set ups and you'll be happy. My write up is too long, just follow Chris'

 

Did you guys remove the timing cover to do this swap? I have an LT1 and was wondering if the shaft needs to be removed.
Bernie

 

I removed the shaft from mine and plugged the hole in the cover. However, I was installing a double roller timing chain. Others have left the shaft in the cover.

 

Does the shaft pose a problem later, not being attached to the pater pump? Just an observation.
Bernie

 

Wich timing chain set did you go for? Will a timing chain for a gen1 block work?

 

Bernie,
You can leave the shaft in but i would advise removing the timing cover and pressing the gear off the shaft then reinstall the shaft with the roller bearing.Running the drive gear with no load and no front support can cause gear teeth chatter and chafing possibly causing gear failure later.By just installing the shaft and keeping the cover seal opening, you have the option later to reinstall the mechanical drive if necessary without buying a new timing cover, but with only a new water pump required. Your choice. I had gear chatter and gear noise issues with my first electric pump install after 1000 miles when i didn't remove the the gear. I currently run the 3145 double roller set with just the pump shaft running thru the cover seal. No problems.
Rick

 

Does this pink wire apply ground or 12 volts?

 

Any set made for the later one piece rear seal blocks should work. The one I and many others have used is the Cloyes 9-3145.

It's a 12v powered wire whenever the ignition is on.

 

I used a comp cams 3136 hi-tech double roller; however, a cloyes SBC chain will work too.