C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

New Head Gasket?

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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 10:30 AM
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Default New Head Gasket?

I recently saw my low coolant light pop on. I poured in about 2 gallons of anti freeze to get the fluid up to the filler neck. Then when driving home I had a ton of white smoke billowing out of the back of my exhaust. I got home within a mile from the shop and parked her. I noticed anti freeze dripping from a hose in the front passenger size close to the front of the car and when I pulled the oil dipstick out the oil was about 2 inches higher than the full mark and looked to be chocolately. Apparently this means I have a blown head gasket and its letting radiator fluid into the combusition chamber producing the white smoke. My question would be does this sound right, how would I make sure and lastely how hard is it to do a head gasket replacement? Besides the service manual any videos of it being done? Already got a ton invested in this car hope I can save some money and do it myself, even after I get this taken care of I still need to look for a Dana 44 for my failing 36...money pitt this thing is turning out to be...Thanks for any help guys.
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 10:37 AM
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there is a chance that the intake gasket has failed, pouring coolant into the valley/combustion chamber.

I would do compression and leak down tests and go from there... but change the oil first.

Also, depending on miles, I would do the headgaskets, anyway. They are prone to failing by about 80k miles.
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 10:47 AM
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Yep, you have all the typical signs of a head gasket. It's not a real hard job, just time consuming. Alot of guys will take digital photos before they start, get yourself some zip lock baggies and label everything as you remove it, including which push rod came from which lifter.I'd have the heads checked to make sure there's no warpage or cracks also. How hot did it get? Before I start I usually get #1 up to TDC, check and see where the rotor is pointing, just helps on reassembly.Pay close attention to the vac. lines. You'll need a torque wrench, some good torx bits and I think the consensus is FelPro gasket kit.
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 10:52 AM
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An intake gasket wouldn't cause coolant to blow out through the coolant reservoir. Cylinder pressure, which is not present in the intake manifold, is pressurizing the cooling system beyond the 16 pound cap limit and overflowing the catch can with coolant. This car has a blown head gasket.

Changing a head gasket is a pretty big and time consuming job. That is why it costs so much. It isn't brain surgery, it's just time consuming. Keep the FSM handy and mark all vacuum and electrical connections as you go. Pictures can help at reassembly time, too.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 11:03 AM
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Well, its what I figured then. The car only has 63,000 miles on it and its been stroked, so I think the head gasket failed prematurely. The only problem I have is the car constantly would operate at 250 when warmed up...seems like most guys here operate much lower than that.
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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I guess lastly, if you have never done this type of thing before or only really know how to do oil changes, even with the best book should you try to do it lol?
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by rap87
I guess lastly, if you have never done this type of thing before or only really know how to do oil changes, even with the best book should you try to do it lol?
find a REALLY good friend you can help hand tools to and get him beers... OR take it somewhere. It's NOT a fun project.

I've done it twice.

the 2nd time I got it down to an entire weekend (14ish hours) mostly by myself.

Couple of quick tricks if you are doing it yourself...
1 - when you disconnect the fuel lines, plug the ends with some small rag pieces (cut some up) and then wrap it with a rubber glove finger and rubber band it on.
2 - when you unbolt the AC unit from the bracks and block, get a piece of rope and pull it back out of the way (over the passenger side wheel) and just tie it out of the way.
3 - Repeat the same thing for the alternator/PS pump on the other side, just tie it out of the way.

The rest is just a TON of unbolting/rebolting to get the heads off.
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by rap87
Well, its what I figured then. The car only has 63,000 miles on it and its been stroked, so I think the head gasket failed prematurely. The only problem I have is the car constantly would operate at 250 when warmed up...seems like most guys here operate much lower than that.
That is pretty warm...

Change your water pump and thermostadt while you are at it. Its a PITA to replace later, and its just worth it to go ahead and get it done since it has to come off anyway.

Also, pull the entire radiator out (easy task) and make sure its all blown/vacced/brushed out of all leaves and dirt and small animals heh.
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 12:19 PM
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I'd have been concerned about running those temps, and I'd make damn sure I corrected that before I took it out again after a head gasket replacement.

Look, everyone has to start somewhere, I can't even remember when I did my first one. Like I said it's basically time consuming, but if it's not your DD, then I'd go for it. We'll be here to help, you should have a set of factory service manuals for torque numbers, sequences and guidance. And good tools are a must for anyone who works on their own car...vette or otherwise.

Last edited by rick lambert; Apr 30, 2007 at 12:26 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 12:28 PM
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Well, I'll order the book and go for it...short on the money as it is...and when time goes to buy that dana 44 I'll be even more broke lol. The only reason I didn't worry about the 250 temp is the gauge on the dash redlined at like 320, or so, I figured that 250 was right in the middle and normal. I, only thought about it when I noticed that you guys seemed to run alot cooler in your posts about it. I just recently had a MSD distributor put in with a new water pump, so I assume I need to change the thermostat then?
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