I have the plenum off and the blots out of the pass side runner, i have the back tubed out but the front ones are stuck in bu the TB. I havent drained the system so the TB is there. Should i just disconnect it, let a little leak and try to catch it? Still having trouble with the drivers side very rear bolt by the distributer. Thanks a bunch. :(

 

I had a similar problem with the driver side bolts on plenum. So I bought a good flexible extension that allowed me to loosen the bolt.

Did you remember the inside bolts located in front and rear of runners?

I had a hard time with the the driver side with the fuel line/regulator in the way.

Be patient and it will all come together.

Jim

:chevy

 

Thanks for the reply. I got the inside bolts out, it will wiggle. Im afraid to pry it for frad of killing the injector. howd you get it out? im trying to get the copper PCV tube and the injector wire harness manipulated out of the way as i wiggle it. Seems theres a vacum hose on the pass. side of the TB towards the back (an elbow connection) I tried (softly) to pull it off w/ pliers but it wouldnt come. should i pull harder or will i break it? :confused:

 

My intake has been off and on several times these past few days. I could do it in my sleep now. A u-joint helped me on the lowers after loosening the injector harnesses. A torx t-40 screw driver would work well here. Last bolt next to dist. didn't seem to hard on my 89. You should consider bypassing the coolant from your throttle body. Just route the lower heater core hose to the inlet on the front of the intake base. It might require a new longer hose but you would do well to bypass that little sucker.

 

When I removed my plenum on my '87 to port it, I wanted to remove the runners as well. I got the plenum off and
removed all of the bolts (top and bottom) from the passenger's side runner. It would not come out because the
flange on the bottom of the runner got stuck on the fuel rail. I was then told by someone on this board
that the fuel rails had to be removed as well inorder to remove the runners. I did not want to screw around
with the fuel rails, so I did not remove the runners.

Bob

 

You don't need to remove the fuel rails, just loosen the four 10mm bolts enough so that you can pop the injectors out of the manifold. (you will need to remove the two Torx bolts on the front face of the pass. side head that locate the fuel lines. That's what actually restricts the removal of the right side runner.) DO NOT force the vacuum line thats held in on the underside of the rear plenum. That's flare fitting that I *think* is a 9/16" or 5/8". I made a 6mm hex extension to get at my runner bolts. (Accell big tubes) I forget now if the stock runners had Torx heads or hex heads. If they are hex heads, just get a 6mm allen wrench, cut off the short side and stick it into a 6mm 1/4" drive socket. (The ball end hex wrenches take a lot of the minor frustration out of getting to some of the bolts.) Get evrything super clean before you re-install the new runner gaskets. Also make note of which are right and left side runners. Also, I would drain out some coolant. That crap gets everywhere, doesn't evaporate, and you DON"T want any to get into your intake. (engine, or oil)


[Modified by h rocks, 8:37 AM 10/19/2001]

 

I do recall that I was removing/replacing my injectors, so I did have the injectors out of the way.

The vacuum line that connects under the TB runs back along the passenger side. Be careful, the plastic becomes brittle and will crack easily. Only good thing about the line is that they are still available at the dealer. If yours is dry rotted, you would be better off replacing it.

Are you considering replacing your fuel regulator while you have everything off.
Possibly an adjustible one?

Jim C :chevy

 

How risky is it to take off the fuel rail? Will i need to relieve the pressure and disconnect it or just raise it up a little? Will it hurt my injectors to pull the out? :confused:

 

Bolt by the distrib on the drivers side keeps me from getting that runner out and on the pass side its the fuel rail and system to keep that one in. Looks like im just doing the plenum and the valve covers. What should i use to stick the emblem back on once im done?

Are the valve covers supposed to be so damn hard to get off? :mad . I had to loosen the alternator and other bracket on the drivers side, and on both sides had to bend the plastic thing holding the injector wires out of the way as well as the copper ventalation tube. Glad i have lots of time to do this because its starting to **** me off. :mad Those enormous flanges make you move tons of stuff before you can even get the cover out.

 

You shouldn't have to worry about fuel comming out of the nozzles. They aren't gettin any elecrical current telling them to pulse. If you're going to completely remove them, unscrew the gas cap and let the pressure relieve itself.

While you're digging around in there. I'd go ahead and replace your injectors with some new ones. Might want to go ahead and add a AFPR while you're in their too.

 

On my 86,I didnt even have to raise the fuel rail at all...the runners are slotted so you can sort of curve them out where they tend to hit..takes a little wiggling.
HOWEVER,its much easier to raise the fuel rail a tad bit..once the runners are loosened,you can push them out of the way and access the four 10MM bolts that secure the fuel rail down...you loosen those bolts and then go to the front of the intake and loosen the 2 torx bolts and take those torx bolts out...then with a long screwdriver, you can lift the fuel rail up a little bit.

They will be a little stuck in there..may take a little prying and they will pop loose
and come off the intake enough to slip the runners out.I tend to pry one side at a time to evenly release the load of the rails being stuck in the intake a long time.

Be sure to coat the O rings of the injectors with a little oil before pressing the fuel rail back down fully if you lift them up that high..use caution since the fuel rail gas lines are still attached and cant come up that high.Avoid kinking the lines.
But you should only have to raise the fuel rail just a tiny bit and the runners will easily slip out.

Because Ive done these job so many times, I find it faster for me to pull the distributor out to access the back torx bolt that holds the runner from inside back there.Gives me alot more room and usually takes me a minute or two to remove.

(if you dont know how to set the timing and align the TDC or the position of the rotor and resintall the same way and etc, dont do it this way)

Dont forget to route the TV cable back inside the runner if you have an automatic,before tightening down the runners again and etc.Easy to forget to do this and Ive done that before..have to take the plenum runner back off again etc.

This is a very easy job once you know where it goes and etc...punch holes in a cardboard box and put the torx bolts in them labeling each one so you dont get their lengths mixed up.Take your time and enjoy.
:)

 

I got your IMmessage but its not working right..feel free to email me at TunePort86@webtv.net

Im not sure if this webtv can allow me to use the IM messenger without problems.