Juliet

Hi all, Just checked my '87 and I'm getting Code 32. "32 The most common cause of this code is a bad or intermittent EGR switch which is located on the EGR pipe between the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold. Replace this switch first when you get this code. Next, check electrical connections at EGR valve solenoid and then the ECM. Check all vacuum lines for leaks especially around the EGR valve. Possible ECM failure."

Sounds simple - change the EGR switch. :smash: Is there a way to test this switch or is it cheap enough I should just replace it? Does GM still sell them? Are the exactly like the originals or will I eventually loose NCRS points (when they start judging C4s that is). :D How difficult is it to remove? Do I need to have the car on a lift, or can I get to it with jackstands & a creeper? Is this a 1 wine cooler job? ;) Is this something I can probably do all by myself or will it require a week of penetrating oil and serious muscle to get it out? (Not that I can't do that myself, but I'm thinking Sat AM project here....) :jester Any tips? Guess I'll call the chevy dealer to see if they have these babies in stock... anyone have a current part number?

PS - I was going to put this other info in a separate thread, but I think it might be related. :yesnod:

Recently my '87 wasn't running well. Rough idle, & pinging at WOT. I put in some injector cleaner. I generally use 92 or 93 Octane. Last batch of gas I could hardly put my foot in the gas at all without it pinging. Different gas station, 92 Octane. :eek: My SES light kept coming up that same tank of gas - code 32. Forget about WOT, I'm talking being outrun by minivans at lights it was so bad on the pinging I couldn't accelerate hardly at all. ;) My husband drove it and asked me if my knock sensor was bad? Next tank of gas I put in 94 Octane (the good stuff from the regular Sunoco). Pinging is gone. Still showing code 32. For three days it didn't put on the SES light. I have't really stomped on it WOT yet, but the pinging under moderate acceleration is gone now. Seems to idle better. So, can a bad batch of gas cause it to throw a code? I know that will make it run bad, but can it damage the EGR switch? Is it possible for a knock sensor to be intermittent? How long with code 32 stay in the computer?

Thanks, Juliet


[Modified by Juliet, 3:51 PM 10/19/2001]

Kale

$15 or so
the worst part is unplugging the electrical connector.
Looks like a spark plug in the EGR pipe on the passenger side.
5 minute job
that includes buying the part and driving home to put it in.
Run thecar for a fw minutes to heat the pipe, so it's loose enough to remove easily.
dont remove it with the car running, though. :lol:

Juliet

Thanks Smash. Chevy will have it on Monday. Looks like I won't get it done this weekend. Anyways, from the parts book it looks like the wire is attached to the sensor. I think I found it on the top side of the engine, back near the firewall on the passenger side. Looks easy enough to get to. :) I haven't traced the wire to the other end - I presume that's the computer connection part you're talking about? ~Juliet

65Z01

Ah Juliet, life can be easy sometimes:
-clear codes
-with engine cold, start engine and run for 15sec or till SES (code 32)

If you got the code the problem is in the sw ckt:
-clear codes & disconnect the sw (don't ask me where the connector is, I never found it).
-with engine cold, start engine and run for 15 sec or till SES (code 32)
1) got the code - check the wire at the sw if OK, replace the sw
3) no code - check ckt between connector and ECM
- if wire is OK, problem is in ECM

This is from John Baechtel's "Chevy TPI Fuel Injection Swapper's Guide". It has full diagnostics on all our codes and much more.

Good luck.